When you get to the corners you have to cut triangles to allow the skin to go around. The tighter the bend, the thinner the triangles. It takes a bit of practice but it does not matter if its not perfect as no one will see this side once its fitted.

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...psnlopsimw.jpg

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...psiapy0syw.jpg

From the inside of the panel cut from diagonal corners into each corner. Then fold the flaps inwards, glue and tape down

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...pstwoxzygd.jpg

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...psqrsexyay.jpg

This is the front of the panel. Next I sprayed the knob on the winder satin black to mimic the original.

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...psyysx1bi2.jpg

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...pssrwlnht6.jpg

The bolts were attached to the door pocket and then bolted with Nylok nuts on the reverse side

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...psi2qjithp.jpg

The finished panel ready for fitting. The handle bolts through to the door skin so is just balanced on there to show the position but the pocket and the winder are bolted on. The winder can turn. I know the usual place for a pocket is lower down but I wanted to hide the giveaway Z3 door pull which will be now inside the pocket. The winder is not as nice as the one going on my personal car but it’s adequate. Next is fitting and lining up on the door.

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...psjzsj70o3.jpg

Just totted up the total cost of one panel and its a reasonable £54. I appreciate people jumping in with pictures of interiors but I will be doing the whole interior on here. It may be more appropriate to wait for the section that relates to the photos instead of a jumble of random photos. I apologise to the more experienced builders as to the slow methodical approach but some people have never attempted this before so please be patient. Thanks

Hiding the Z3 interior latch inside the door pocket is pure genius. Keep up the good work!

Thanks! I'll take any compliments in between the rotten veg throwing Ive been getting!

Oh by the way I have a total target budget of £400 for the interior transformation which is a tenth as much as some have spent...I should look okay for the money too.

Very nice. Screw cups (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/No-6-8-10-...-/150886320980) and self tappers around the edge?

Of course, already to fit tomorrow! Stainless self tapers not zinc plated.

Here is the bare door before starting. It has been painted in Ferrari Tour de France blue

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...psmnqpzmrb.jpg

You must panel beat this ’lump’ inwards so the panel will fit flat.

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...pssiop0cb4.jpg

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...pshepcacrt.jpg

I drilled and inserted two riv nuts into the door skin for the handle to bolt to. If you do not have one of these tools a a self taping screw and spire nut will do. Then I drilled through the pre-drilled holes in the panel into the door skin making six holes. Then used stainless steel cups and self tapers to screw the door panel to the door.

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...pswyk9wp8j.jpg

Finally after 5 hours work it’s finished. Its 98% right so the next should be 100%. Next is replacing the seats with Rover 75 ones.

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...pskiecmcph.jpg

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...pstwme7ttm.jpg

Actually there is already a very good thread by Ericholm on this forum about fitting the Rover 75 seats and wiring them up here

http://www.madabout-kitcars.com/foru...ht=rover+seats

So I am going to customise the clocks now. If you did not think I’m mad already this should convince you. First remove the speedo/tacho binnacle.

http://bmwz3diys.weebly.com/instrame...4-m50-m52.html

Then turn it over and remove the five torx screws in the back. This will separate the two halves. (second picture) Now BMW in their ultimate wisdom decided to permamently glue the clear plastic cover to the binnacle. On most vehicles you just lever each tab around the outside till it comes off, giving you perfect access to the clock faces. Not on Z3’s. I googled removing the speedo head from the cluster and they all say it can’t be done. Now I’m a persistence little **** so I got and old set of clocks from my wifes Z3 with a non working speedo. I reverse engineered (ie: smashed it apart) to see how it had been assembled and found a solution.(first picture)

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...psinvzyqhy.jpg

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...psdl4eiwdx.jpg

There are three black, round posts with a white revolving collar. If you get a pair of nose pliers and rotate the white collar to the position where the base is free from the clear casing, the whole part lifts out. You have to be brave and go past the thin ‘stop’ plastic line to get there.

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...psuzivvzrc.jpg

Carefully lift out the clocks paying attention NOT to touch the needles on the two outside gauges. I bought off ebay some chrome Ferrari modelling metal decal transfers. These are much classier than vinyl wording. I then carefully with the tip of a scalpel and a pair of tweesers positioned the lettering where I wanted them. Use the back of your nail to press them down, not your fingertips as these can leave fingerprints (not a good look). Peel off the outer clear coating.

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...psp0pt2lti.jpg

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...psynsrzmrx.jpg

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...psgvflwkvy.jpg

Reassemble in reverse order. This took me a silly amount of time but should be quicker now for you. Sometimes the smallest (but important) details take the most time. Total cost £2.99.

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...psql7cje5u.jpg

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...ps90qoeoil.jpg