found my mojo build 6.5
 

found My mojo my last build had a trim and cut to remove any likeness to other vehicles and has been parked a while, I seem to have some time on my hands so the garage door is open again and I needed to get out the house . after watching the ford v f film it inspired me to get out the hack saw and cut away Attachment 6677.

watch this space ...remember big brother is always watching you and he is a spoilt tw__t this is my BMW HB kit :spy:

Ooh looking forward to what you have planned

complete makeover new front and back design that should give me a one off in the end not that it wasn't perfect to start with. new back end in the making luckily I had some chunky plastic to make a template
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from the first pic of the body cut this this one was a week of filling and sanding
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new boot lid in the making

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take my hat off to chris and dan getting a good finish that is also strong is harder than you think.
back end of the car now looks like this still work to do but getting there
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boot hinge has snapped so I now need to work on some hidden hinges I think rather than the old style chrome ones . now that's going to be a pain.:biggrin:

Nice job building a new back end from scratch. :cool:

Good luck, Paul. :)

cheers paul L......bit of pawn arrived this morning I always thought toe in or toe out was checking the bath water
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Bit of a cut down cobra Daytona look .. I like can’t wait to see what the fronts going to be like

https://www.superformance.com/themes...6-original.jpg

Fantastic

I’m surprised more people haven’t tried this

nice work, looking really good

on my 4th grill hoping this is a keeper this time
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also added side skirts

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wheels on order 10" rears so there could be some other body mods
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dropped an absolute bollock today today part way through using primmer run out and opened fiberglass topcoat and used it on the car if it drys I will get away with it . if not whole world of pain sorting it such is life
Zgt on order better get a move on lol:party:

Well I was right about needing to body mods for the new wheels I did not expect it to be a complete make over again. The measurements around the arch were how much I needed to bring it out. guessing front will be the same going from 7.5j to 9j ...can tell I watched blue peter as a kid nice bit of parcel tape used :icon_mrgreen:

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This is some build. Looks nothing like the original from moulds car and liking the changes. They are monster wheels and now has a booty to match.

Keep the updates coming Andy :)

bit more progress both rear arch extensions now made and boneded on I also filled them with fast expanding foam. More filling and sanding tomoz should also get on the front ones not 100% how to do them for looks but I will work it out always think better after a class of blonk

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should look puka when I fit the wider wheels looks a bit odd at the mo with a massive arch and smaller wheel.

whoop whoop what a difference a bit of prommer makes ,almost looks the same as before I started lol.
Bit of a bonus the front wheels will fit with no modifications to the arch with the 8.5j rim
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got me some rubber on my new wheels wheel chuffed with the rear end stance it's going to look wicked painted up

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few more bits to change on the front running gear so while its off the ground I will lower the front coilover an inch or so to bring the gap down a touch

I like it a lot!

Very cool Andy, got a very nice stance that will work well with the shape.
Definitely a unique mash up of a few inspirations but you are putting it together well.....Awesome

Awesome! Wish I worked as quick as you my car would have been done a year ago lol

Andy – Amazing transformation so far. :cool:

It is clear that all your previous fibreglass projects really help speed up the build.

Good luck, Paul. :)

Looking amazing Andy!

Question about your arch widening process.

You put the tape over the existing arch to get almost the shape you wanted, put cloth and resin over that. Then pulled the resin and cloth off, removed the tape and used expanding foam between the original arch and the new grp?

What did you do at the edges? How did you fix the new grp to the body? Overlap or used the adhesive power of the foam?

Thanks for any advice. I’m new to grp mods!

grind back the gel coat back to the fiberglass lined up the arch so your happy and fixed it with screws for a good fit. next take it off again mix up some resin and basically glue them together using a bit of matting to fill any gaps. put the screws back in till dry drill a few holes and fill with foam dont over fill it could move the arch. when it's all hard remove the screws sand it back and glass over the joint , away you go

wired my lights up and also fitted DRL but I am going to switch them so they can be turned off.
I have also wired up for the spotlights in the grill so ebay here I come again. my bank should be called paypal that all it says on the statement.
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with the hinge breaking on the boot lid I made some modifications to MX5 hinges and made some captive bolt plates for the back of the lid . works a treat just need to figure out the latch.
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Thank you for taking the time to reply and teach me!

This is looking amazing. Can’t wait to see your Z3GT when that happens.

Timing seems to be tripping me up. I tried to get in touch with Chris when the 250 came out but there was a little delay and I ended up with a 911 project. I’ve just bought a Caterham project but so tempted by the Z3GT and seeing all the fun you are having...

lol zgt is on order and the car is sat striped ready to bolt it on it's even got wire wheels on ready. best thing to do with chris is call him if you need a quick answer. but seems you have got your hands full at the mo. have fun

my car has a light tan dash and interior I don't mind it wife hates it lol. we won't have the car 5 mins when its finished but hey ho anything for a quiet life . I bought a dash from chris I have modified it for a better fit, it now goes all the way down to the screen. started the process of taking a mould off it as I now need two
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Liking the internal hinges. How have you fixed the hinge onto the body side ? Any photos ? I might do the same my Z3GT convertible

came off the roll cage with some box section welded on then bolted the hinge onto that so I can move them around a bit for adjustments
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oops i did it again ,for whatever reason the flow coat and the primer did not like each other so I striped the rear end. made a small body mod at the same time. 1st test fit of my new dash fitted first time bit of work should be pukaI cant take all the credit for the dash. I bought one from chris just extended and modified it so it now goes down to the window screen all in one piece

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I couldn't see what happened to the primer, but guess it created in some way - could it be the wax content of the flowcoat?
Damned auto spelling changed reacted to created! crikey it changed it to reached this time,. but I saw it

looked like the flow coat was not 100% set when I primered over it . It looked ok till it was in full sun then you could see it starting to crack ,luckily just on the back panel and boot lid. could have been not mixed properly it was an old tin I have had for years poss gone off will never know all striped off now ready to re primer

GRP is strange stuff. I used a plug to make a female mould last year. a few days later I waxed it well several times and made a part in it - a couple of days later there was no way I could get it out and both the part and mould were scrap.
Made a new female mould off same plug, and this time I let it cure for 2 weeks. Similar prep with same wax, and when I made the first part it almost fell straight out.
It seems (reading on the 'net) that if (in this case the female mould) isn't fully cured then some cross-linking of molecules will still take place even with good release prep. If the weather's sunny I leave GRP (if in a good, stable mould that won't move) out in direct sunlight to cook it nicely :smile:

thanks for the info Mitchelkitman I have ordered in some gel coat did plan to take a copy off the dash when it's ready. but after your info think I will put it in the boiler house for a few days to cook it.

You need to ensure it can't move though, otherwise it could change shape in the heat- If it's in a (much thicker) mould whilst it cures then it's very unlikely to sag. If the part isn't in a mould to stabilise it, it may be best left for a couple of weeks in room temperature, maybe left in position in the car?. I know someone who had an old kit which had never been built, and the bootlid hadn't been stored in position. When he offered it up to the car is was clearly bent by a few inches. Held by wood and braced over a few months gradually bent it back to its correct shape. Some people advocate the blue PVA release agent, but I had a part stick using it (similarly made the mould a few days before) so I've never trusted it again. I've heard others have poor results with PVA also.

I use a brand of release wax called "Honey Wax" and green PVA over that for difficult parts. Allow to cure for 48 hours and 100% success.

seats out dash out
 

here we go test fitting the new dash so seats out dash out ,I worked out after some jiggling that I can keep the centre console so most of the plastic trims will then refit with minor work in the foot wells. on a plus side saves me loads of work re routing the switches I did look at changing it but keeping out weighs taking it out
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I have ordered some Mirror Glaze 8 Paste Release Wax hopefully it should work for the one off I will be doing . thanks for the info molleur & Mitchelkitman

my release wax arrived yesterday so I got to work making a mold for the next dashboard. it was a bugger to get off the mold is thick around the front and corners so it doesn't flex. I have ordered some pva release agent for when I attempt to make another I am going in belt and braces for the next one wax and pva so it will hopefully pop out . I wish lol

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On difficult parts I use both wax and PVA. I do swear by
"Honey Wax". Much better than the Mirror Glaze.

Glass in a couple tube ports to the mould so you can use some compressed air to help it come apart. You don't need much air, a foot pump can generate enough pressure to separate the two if you haven't got a compressor.

good idea. If using PVA, some water squirted into the mold will help too. PVA is water soluble.

I am waiting on parts from all over the place so having a play with the interior .made up some fiberglass door cars and started on the headlining what a pain
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always seem to be waiting on parts at the mo so flicking between cars as they arrive. managed to get one dash in and almost complete,painted with textured paint.
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after seeing the inside of a zagato without a centre console just carpet I decided the stock BMW console had to go. I made up a mold and set about making a new centre for the other car

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test fit here's one I just made lol. I've extended the sides so it meets up with the rest of the trim so no gaps

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some of the switches fitted ,hopefully will get it all in tomorrow and possibly get it painted

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not going old school with this car I wanted mod cons it's got a dab radio and power charging points for phone etc

That's the great thing about Kit Cars - do what you want!

re the PVA, I've never had any luck with it (bits stuck in mould!) it seems so work as a good glue for me. I discussed this with one of the manufacturers about 5 years ago at stoneleigh and he'd also experienced the same.