Swifty's Navigator
 

The first post for my Navigator build and the start of a great journey.

Bought a rather tired looking GT6 engine off flea bay for a reasonable price local to where i live which is handy.

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Engine out of the van and ready for a full strip down.

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She does look like she needs some TLC so here goes

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Rocker cover off then head removed to find six domed topped pistons as this is from a 1973 GT6 the later version, stronger crank etc.

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Now it's the turn of the head which has the larger inlet valves, a little bit of carbon build up and few burnt valve seats which will be fixed later.

Engine turned through 180 degrees to strip the bottom end.

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View into the crank case where the sump goes, all pistons con rods, main bearing housings and rocker shaft laid out in order. You can see a slight build up of carbon deposit around the piston skirts where the hot gases have been passing the piston rings, also there is a little rub wear adjacent the gudgeon pin axis which is normal for an engine of this age.

The engine was then sent off to an engine machine shop to be De-greased, the crank shaft journals polished, cylinder bores honed, the cylinder head was also converted to run on unleaded with hardened exhaust valve seats along with new valve guides and a 6th head skim.

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A very clean degrease crank case is ready for re assembly, all the oil and water channels have been cleaned and blasted with compressed air before the re assembly begins to make sure the engine has many more years ahead. New core plugs fitted.

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Crank shaft fitted and torqued down with new main bearings. New crank shaft oil lip seal in place.

Well that's it for now, its time for a cuppa, i will load more photos soon.

Exciting time the donor spitfire has arrived looking worse for wear but ready for a complete make over to a 50's sports car, roll on.

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Cant wait to start the strip to get a better look at the chassis.

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Body midway from being removed.

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First major hurdle the body tub is off and time to inspect the chassis for problems.


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The chassis is not too bad just a couple of front outriggers to replace but will get a better idea once the engine is removed.

Well i now have loads of bits to sell hopefully i will get back most of the purchase price for the spitfire.

Welcome, Swifty. I look forward to following your build. And to think, somebody said that you would never build a car. You've made the right choice.

Thanks Oxford, i have followed your build and you have an eye for quality and detail which is the type of build i am hoping to achieve.

I do have more photos as i know the guys on here love to see what your up to and I've been busy manufacturing parts on the CNC gear we have so exciting times ahead.

Never build a car? Who said that then...

Welcome to the fold Swifty, looking forward to seeing your build come together. :thumb:

Hi Swifty,

This is looking very productive and thoroughly at the same time. Looking forward to see the progress on this project.

michiel

Has anybody attempted to hinge the hump like in this photo, it looks like a cool solution for a rear boot lid.

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Thanks Michiel i have also followed your build which is to an exceptional high standard, are you an engineer by trade as the metal work on your build is spot on.:thumb:

That hinged head fairing wouldn't be particularly difficult to pull off and it sure looks cool. There is no right or wrong with these cars, it's your project and you build it how you want it, so if you'd like a hinged hump just go ahead and make one!

Without trying to blow my own trumpet too much, some of the modifications I made along the way show what's possible if you put your mind to it. Near the end of my build I saw a 50's Jag with loads of louvres in its bonnet and I thought 'I'd like some louvres in my bonnet...' So, a £3.49 aluminium airing cupboard vent from ebay and a little ingenuity later -

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...ion/004-43.jpg

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...ion/006-19.jpg

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...lion/010-7.jpg

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...psc0da7c9b.jpg

I also wanted a different dash design to the 'standard' flat panel, so I sourced a moulding taken from a Porsche 550 Spyder and made it fit -

This is the traditional dash layout as expertly put together as it's possible for it to be (Barry's car) -

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...ion/003-33.jpg

Very nice indeed, but I wanted the instruments ahead of the driver rather than in the centre of the car, so this was my solution -

Dash moulding from a 550 Spyder.
http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...ion/001-43.jpg

Not a great fit out of the box.
http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...ion/001-44.jpg

Bit of 'cut and paste'
http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...ion/001-47.jpg

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...ion/004-21.jpg

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...ion/001-48.jpg

To end up with something a bit different -
http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...ps740407bd.jpg

Just remember what Yoda has to say about Sammio/Ribble building - impossible, is nothing.

Hi Swifty,
Thanks. No I'm not a engineer by trade. Just an enthoustiast like most of us.

Mars'69 which is building a sammio CV, made a large boot lit which include the two humps he has. So the whole lit is hinged at the back of the seats. But you have to acount for the back of the seats. When the lit opens, the humps could bump into the seat backs, if you haven't sorted this. Also the lit has to strengthened with a frame to make it strong enough.

This Bucci Alfa looks superb BTW. What a beautiful car.

Michiel

Thanks for the heads up on Mars69.

Mister Towed..... the dash blends in beautifully and looks the part along with the rest of the car, its a credit to you, the use of an air vent is a simple and effective solution.

Well its time to go back out and remove the engine from the chassis, oh happy days.

Welcome top the fold Swifty. You've started your project in the right place, getting the Engine (Heart) of the car sorted. I hope the chassis is in as good condition when you're done. Ring or pop in for a chat when you can as we're doing a few interesting things to the Navigator kit that may help you along.

Thanks Andy, will contact you soon more than likely by phone.

Been busy today removing the redundant engine and gearbox, its sooo easy with the open front end which will come in handy for future work once the car is complete.

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Engine out, its an easy task to complete with an engine crane, a couple of bolts to remove and hay presto job done.


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The chassis not too bad especially when you consider it's 41 years old, some area's even have the original paint which when removed has clean steel. The area around the oil leaker parts is as good as the day it was manufactured, its a shame the oil had not traveled all over the chassis.


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The two front outriggers will require attention, i think i will fabricate complete new parts as the replacement's cost £109 and a piece of 2mm plate will be no where near that, one more part on the ever growing list of replacements.


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Thought i would include a picture of my electrolysis tank which is excellent at cleaning all the crud and rust off the metal parts before painting. It's very easy to put together and if you fancy one too then Google electrolysis metal cleaning for lots of info, some good guides on YouTube. Just be careful with ventilation as the gases given off i believe to be hydrogen and chlorine.

Sure I've seen one of those vats somewhere before...

Oh yes, that's right, Crystal Meth making chemistry teacher Walter White had something similar for dealing with business rivals.

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2207df95.jpg

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...psed52cc6a.jpg

Best of luck with the chassis restoration, it was my most onerous task. :(

Nice one Mister Towed :lol::lol:, i can do with one of those masks when spray painting:hippie:.

Swifty - Good to see another Spitfire based build on the go. :cool:

Given the improvements to the Navigator body shell and internal framework, you should have an easy build.

OK, there is no such think as an "easy" build, but at least it will not be my Cordite based nightmare. :rolleyes:

Although the sight of dismantled Spitfire, open driveway & tarpaulin are sending shivers down my spine. :icon_wink:

I really hope that is a garage I can see in one of the photos and that is where the building will take place.

Good luck, Paul. :)

Welcome aboard the good ship Ribble Swifty :eusa_dance:

I look forward to seeing how your build progresses :dance::dance::dance:

Good to see another Navigator build :biggrin:

Cheers

"Lil" Andy

Hi Paul yes the build will be indoors, i'm trying to keep the majority of the muck outside, once the chassis is clean i will move indoors, thinking of having the chassis galvanized but will do the repairs and mods first.

Type 9 gearbox should be here in the next couple of days then i can sort out the adapter plate, make a cad drawing etc.

I have heard some stories about a few problems the cordite kit had one in particular with the body not being symmetrical but all has been rectified by the Ribble team, great job lads, i have seen first hand the navigator which looks great.

Looking forward to start the clean build instead of stripping old parts down but all in all it's being pleasurable so far.

Thanks AndyP85, will speak soon.

Made a few parts today and saved a few quid in the process....good result.

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Fabricated the two replacement front outriggers for the chassis out of 2mm mild steel plate, will remove the old ones to weld these in to place for the Ribble sub frame to mount into. Also made two front brake pipe stainless steel brackets that hold the copper brake pipe on to the flexi pipe. Original bracket on the left to compare, you may notice the original is slotted, i didn't slot the hole as Triumph did this i think as a tolerance measure for assembly, i measured the hole centers on the front uprights to make sure i only needed to drill a hole, better to be right first time.


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Parcel arrived from Rimmer Bros for the rocker shaft re-build kit which hopefully i will get to rebuild at the weekend as work commitments prevail, can't speak highly enough for the superb service Rimmer Bros have provided, order placed online one day and delivered the next and i got to save 15% with a discount code, happy days.

Well that's it for now and i hope to have the type 9 gearbox soon so i can tick another job off the ever growing list, when will the list end ummm.

Not a great deal done today, made a carburetor heat shield from 1mm stainless plate, also done a little research into fitting the GT6 engine into the chassis which had a 1300 engine, it looks like i have to move the engine mounts in by 15mm per side other wise the engine sits too low in the chassis so another fabrication job on the list.

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Will make adjustments for the throttle cable linkage once fitted to the engine, most likely involve cutting away a section in the middle for clearance.

Good night for now and see you all soon.

Swifty - You are right, the new Navigator body shell is in a different league to the old Cordite one.

Based on how quickly you are fabricating things (and to a high standard) I can see you being on the road before I am!!

Good luck, Paul. :)

I don't know about being on the road before you Paul as my list just keeps on growing, buy hey it's enjoyable and that's all that counts.

Had a few spare minutes today so decided to make a new handle for the hand brake as well as some ally pads for the pedals.

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Handle machined from stock 30mm aluminum bar, not sure if i will leave the handle frame on show or cover with a leather shroud so machined a 5mm groove into the handle base. New stainless steel pivot pin made and fitted also fitted the red release button also have a black button in case i prefer.


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Pedal pads machined out of 3mm ally plate, used a chamfer tool to create the v grooves. Will have to come up with an idea to profile the plate to match the pedal curve as the plate is flat.

Tomorrow i hope to have the rocker shaft re assembled with the head fitted and may be the rotten out riggers removed. That's it for now as its time to go out for a few beers with the lads.

Wow impressed with the machining skills mate!!

How do you start? Do you have to draw it up and make note of measurements?

Thanks, after many years in engineering i can now use the skills for my own pleasure.

Hi Garyh Yes i start by looking at the part or parts that the new machined component will fix too then base the new part around those measurements, sometimes if its a simple job i will make and measure as i go along using my eye for judgment as i did with the hand brake ally handle.

The one time i do make a cad drawing is where the shape is less simple with PCD's etc, for example when i eventually make the adapter plate for the type 9 gearbox to attach to a GT6 bell housing i will measure accurately with no wastage as the cad drawing gives me information at the click of a mouse that would require various calculations done long hand using trig, the beauty of modern technology.

The cylinder head is now re-assembled and back on the engine so one more step closer.

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Rocker shaft parts laid out pre assembly to check the layout and then the Rocker shaft assembled ready to fit to the cylinder head, the rockers are handed left and right and there are spacer washers which have to be added to the shaft in the correct sequence, all in all a simple task.

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Valves in head with new springs ready to fit. The next image shows the valve spring compressing tool used to compress each valve spring so the retaining collect can be fitted.

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Another image of the valve compressing tool showing the point where the spring top seat and collect go onto the top of the valve stem. If you look at the valve on the right you can just make out the split taper collect that stops the valve popping off the valve stem, the compressed valve has the split Collete's fitted prior to releasing the tool.

More images of the cylinder head overhaul.

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These images show the difference between the inlet and outlet valve fittings, the left hand image has two components to the Collette retainer whilst the right hand image shows only one component.

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This images shows the hardened exhaust inlet valve seat, you can just make out the different colour metal ring. The next image shows the valve after the valve seat was lapped in, you need to see a gray colour band all the way around the valve taper seat.


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All the valves are now fitted to the cylinder head, valve stems and guide bores etc were lubed with engine oil prior to assembly, also the rocker shaft oil feed galley in the cylinder head was checked with compressed air to make sure its clear.

This section shows the wear on the old rocker shaft.

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The new rocker shaft at the top has deeper flats machined, i think this may be an improvement to help in lubing each rocker as they pivot on the shaft at this point. I have laid the old shaft next to the new so you can compare between old and new.

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You can see the extreme wear on the rocker shaft where one of the rockers rotated, it looks like the shaft has been starved of oil at some point, just about all the rockers had picked up the same as this one, poor maintenance by a previous owner, so let this be a warning to regular checking and changing the engine oil.

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This shows the point where the rocker comes into contact with the valve stem (the point you put the feeler gauge in to adjust the gap, this images shows the rocker arm upside down), the valve stem has worn an indentation into the rocker toe. The second image shows what a new rocker looks like, no wear at all. Apparently this wear affects the angle at which the valve opens so effecting the performance of the engine.

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The cylinder head fitted and torqued down, valve timing is checked to make sure its correct i did set the cam shaft up with a dial gauge on no 1 piston prior to fitting the cylinder head, then each valve gap is set to the correct tolerance. Made three new rocker box studs out of my favorite material, stainless steel.

Job done and the engine is beginning to come together, the real test will be when i start her up so fingers crossed all will be ok.

That's looking really good. Keep going!

Swifty, its so helpful to have the detailed descriptions. I will use these as ref. in my build.

Not a problem Garyh, if you ever need any advice drop me a line and if i can help i will.

Swifty - Your engine looks good from the outside & the inside!

Good luck, Paul. :)

Not a great deal done today, started to manufacture a bespoke coil cover, hopefully i will have it finished tomorrow, will then post some pictures.


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Made a couple of engine lifting brackets out of 3mm stainless and a stainless water pipe as the original steel pipe was rotten.

Cleared the garage out ready to wheel the chassis in to start stripping it down before i send it off to mates to be shot blasted and etch primed, was thinking of having the chassis galvanized but may just coat with a quality chassis paint and wax oil the internal parts.

Well that's it for now not much to talk about today see you soon.

Finally finished the ally coil cover so posted a few images, bored out from 80mm bar to suit the coil, made a ring cover to finish the open end when coil fitted. Hex machined with dividing head along with the end vent pattern.

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Also machined the fly wheel face which has some hard spots circled in red, could be poor material or work hardening you can just make them out in the photo, any way when i clocked the surface the hard spots were .02mm high which is ok.

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Nice work and glad to see the words Navigator on the coil cover and not the name of another ermmmm manufacturer!

Swifty - Your car is going to be full of really nice touches at this rate. :cool:

Good luck, Paul. :)