Opinions on Cat C & D donor cars
 

Thinking of going down this route to save a bit of cash. Found a six cylinder car with minor front end damage. Low mileage and the rest of the car ( the important bits ) look all ok. Its a Cat C but now the VIC has been scrapped it will just need a new V5 in my name. I'll be happy with the C cat as I don't intend to sell the car once I've built it.
Any opinions please !

I've bought the odd cat C and D car over the years and never had a problem. I even made a profit on a bubble shaped Nissan Micra that'd had the headlights and front bumper replaced that I used for two years and then sold for more than I'd paid for it.

These days, with the price of labour to fix cars the way it is, insurance companies will 'write off' anything over about five years old with the slightest ding. So long as it's mechanically sound and there's no distortion in the chassis/monocoque they're a pretty good choice for a donor.

How many times have I said that... more times than there are cars in my garage!

As long as you are prepared for an odd challenge of slightly off fitting parts, you should be good from what you describe. I know from another's experience that even if all wheels and chassis mounting points are straight - straightened, the other parts may still have a slight twist in them that puts them even further outside normal specs.

If you are looking to build a Tribute 250swb, from what I've been reading, there are enough areas where you will be pulling the parts around for alignment anyway. Some kits that are a little more tighter toleranced may be more frustrating if you aim to just fit without too many changes.

If you haven't bought one before start with a cat D.
Look very carefully at the pictures and pay special attention to the front wheel position, is one facing straight ahead an the other pointing in another direction? If so avoid, it could be suspension/steering damage or a bent chassis rail. Either can be uneconomical to repair.

I had a Retroforza kit sitting in the back garden waiting for an MX5, ended up buying 3 cat D's, all had such little damage that I repaired them all and sold them on.

For Tribute donors, try and stay away from flash interiors, wheels and hardtops. These add massively to the profits that breakers make so the auction prices for these extras is often way more expensive.
Building a 250swb coupe, buy a donor with a damaged interior, roof and one damaged alloy, no breaker wants it and it will go very cheaply.

I want to build one of the convertible 275 kits when they become available. I'm in no hurry but the Z3 I've found will be just the job.

They will be classic and collectable by then!

Come on Chris & Dan, pull yer fingers out:tape2:

Hi Lucky

Ive bought dozens of these now so know a bit about them. I also used to repair salvage for two years from D Hales, repair them and sell on.
My advice is the front of these cars (Z3's) are very strong but the rears not so good. The No.7 car we are building was salvage and the front right leg of the main chassis is folded over but 95% straight and true so will not affect the drive. The left hand striker pin was a pig to get right though as they have to go in the slam panel perfectly straight or the bonnet will not 'pop up' when the lever is pulled. Copart.co.uk has a few Z3's for sale usually. Always check the front chassis legs for rust as this can mean they have creased and broke the weld.
On the wife's Z300s we bought a rear ended one and despite all my efforts could not get it right. Even with a Portapower the bootlid never lined up properly. The spotwelds in the boot can shear also.
We have just done a Kalifornia for a customer that was hit on the front right but it just bent the bottom wishbone. The wheel was nearer the rear part of the arch. A new one sorted it. The anti rollbar tends to spring back when released so these are good. Don't buy a wishbone without the 3 bushes and joints attached as they are a pig to fit. I have a perfect slam panel and wishbones etc if you need them? Have Z3's always breaking. Hope this helps?

Thanks for your help Richard . The front corner on this one is a little bent. The slam panel behind the head light is bent back a couple of inches. Most of the damage is on the upper bonnet area, the headlight is still in one piece!