No heated seats then.
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A few photos of the work I've done over the last week or so.
The curved box formers have made easy work of the bonnet return edges. The scuttle panel along with the roughly formed bonnet edges sitting in place. A bit more work needed on these parts before final fit ! The engine has been in and out a few times, next time it goes in should be the last. The interior is stripped back to bare bones and cleaned up. Also welded up all the holes along the top chassis rail where the old Locost body was rivetted on. |
Very nice work!
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Daft question time...
Is it just a case of hammering the metal around the former? Or do you need to apply heat / do something else as well? http://www.madabout-kitcars.com/foru...9&d=1536339373 This really is going to be stunning when finished. Good luck, Paul. :) |
In the case of the scuttle panel it is a fairy simple shape so the aluminium will easily form and stretch over the former around the bonnet return edge. Its easy to work as its quite soft and malleable. I use a domed plastic mallet so you can form the internal radius's . Luckily I had the screen and frame which allowed me to get the correct profile, it would have been guesswork without it !
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Made another former tonight, a concave one this time. I want to get the front end ready this week so it can go back on the car at the weekend, that's the plan anyway !
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A few more jobs done. I needed to make up several curved steel tube sections to support the front end so I looked at buying a tube roller. Most of the ones I looked at that would cope with 5/8" diameter tube were too much money at £300 +. There's plenty of scrap bits of steel lying around in the garage so I've knocked up a simple one for free ! I made a couple of sets of dies so it will do flat section and tube.The first section made will go under the front edge of the scuttle, the ali being formed around it. Here are a couple of photo's...…….
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Very nice work!
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Loving it!
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All the return edges around the bonnet are done now. The front end is ready to go back on the chassis and the bracketry made up to support it. Another week and the front end should be just about done ( minus the bonnet itself ! ). Next jobs include a new wiring loom, exhaust manifolds and system ……..
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Just catching up on this great build and it’s looking lovely :)
You said you just bolted the new Engine onto the existing type 9 - But the V6 needs a longer input shaft and has different ratios to the 4 pot. |
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Yes the ratios are slightly different but that shouldn't be an issue. With the 80 profile tyres rather than the 50 series fitted to the "7" the ratios in the box and the diff will complement the V6. |
I’ve seen the adaptor shafts but would definitely go with the short bellhousing (I sold mine for a lot more than I paid for it!).
The change in tyre profile won’t totally hide the very low first (I had a 2.9i GTC with a type 9 and went from 14” to 15” Wheels and first was still only for pulling away on hills) - I’m about to change mine in the hillclimb SS1 for next season as even on a CVH it’s too low. |
I'll have to see once I've got it on the road. I only intend to use it on the road anyway so normal driving, mostly in 3rd, 4th and 5th will be ok, as long as my calculations are correct.
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Its looking fantastic!
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I've been working on getting the front end bolted up to chassis over the last few days. It's quite involved getting it all supported correctly, I don't want to have any part of it under any stress loads so I'm having to brace it all up. I'm doing it in such a way that none of the supporting structure will be visible.
I've also sent off the log book V5 to be updated with the new body. Should all be ok with what I've asked for under make and model. They have before and after photos, receipts, the old V5 and a covering letter. Wait and see what they come up with. |
A bit of a change for this weekend, I'm going to make a start on the seats. When I bought the body panels there were lots of other bits that came with it including the seats. However, they won't fit into the chassis without chopping them around for width and height. I did some measuring up and I ordered some leather in black.
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I little more progress, the front bodywork is now largely supported and fixed in place. Time to start looking at the door hinges. I want a little adjustment, up, down and left and right so the door can be squared up. Still some work to do on the seats, the backs are done and look ok. The bases are taking a bit more effort, I might yet let the pro's do the job if I can't get it right !
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Just leaving these here....
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Seen at Classics on the Common, Harpenden
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:jaw:
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I've not seen that blue car before and I can't find any other photos online. This is a slightly later variation as it hasn't got the full pontoon wing arrangement. There were a lot of ideas being tried out around this era, the Testarossa design changed many times.
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this might be worth checking out if you can make it to London
https://www.2.gtoengineering.com/sin...London-Calling Over the next month, we are delighted to be part of an exhibition taking place at Moor House, 120 London Wall where we mark the 60th Anniversary of Mike Hawthorn's World Championship alongside original race posters and photography from William Lansbury. If you are in The City of London before 13th November and would like to view, or to have further information, please contact Elisa Martinelli on info@artmoorhouse.com https://static.wixstatic.com/media/b...f3092a~mv2.jpghttps://static.wixstatic.com/media/b...0a5ee6~mv2.jpg |
Take a big carrier bag:spy:
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I was lucky enough to get a good look around the GTO Engineering workshop facility earlier this year. If I had a big enough check book I could have come away with lots of goodies !
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They were happy with everything I sent them , even the hand written receipt from the seller. Using an already correctly registered car as the base for this project has caused no problems at all. |
Super! Congrats.
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Result ! V5c came back today. Make now shows Giordanengo 250 TR, there is no reference to the "7" base car. As before the model is still blank, I'm really happy with the outcome.
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Managed to get onto the doors and made up some hinge supports. Not the easiest task as I've had to work from scratch. The back edge of the front wings were reinforced with a steel supporting structure bolted to the chassis. Part of the hinge assembly is welded to the structure forming a solid base to work from. I've got the near side done and the door is mounted up. Soon as I'm totally happy with it I'll post some photos.
I've been to the trimmers with my seats, I'm waiting on a quote. It shouldn't be too much as I'm supplying the leather and the seat frames. I had a go myself but I wasn't 100% happy with the results so I'll let the professionals do it ! The interior is sparse on these cars anyway, the seats are the first thing you look at, they need to be right. |
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Photos below show the first fix attempt with the hinged door sitting in place. Not too bad and there is a little adjustment.
Other photos show one option for the front indicators. These are side repeaters from a Ford, KA I think. Another option is to fit a brass bulb holder with an amber bulb, but it does look like an after thought borrowed from a bed side lamp ! When the car is painted the Ford ones will blend in and not look so obvious. |
Looks good!
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I'm happy with the door hinges now. That was the last job before lifting off the front end off again to finish various jobs. Those include welding all the supporting structure in place as its all just tacked into position at the moment. I need to make up the exhaust manifolds and down pipes, make some ali infill panels and radiator mounts. Might run the wiring loom in as well whilst access is easy. Probably find some other jobs to do so that lot will keep me busy for a week or two. After that the front end can go back on and be bolted up for the final time. Getting there !
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Good progress, can't wait to see some more pics.
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Lucky - Congratulations on getting the V5C sorted out. :cool:
This just confirms what a clever approach you have taken to this build. I think you can't go wrong with the modern side repeaters. At worst, it will look like you had to add them to keep an old car on the road. :icon_wink: Good luck, Paul. :) |
The re body way of building a car or replica brings lots of options when you realise you can re body any suitable vehicle to suit your needs as long as its correctly registered in the first place. You could build a bespoke chassis the same as the original car but it could well run into problems with the IVA inspectors. What was acceptable in the 1950's won't be these days !
Regards my indicator choice I think it will look fine against the dark red paint. Not sure what to do at the rear, I could use this style, not sure at the moment. I could cast a pair of rear lenses with a red and a clear section the same size and shape of the originals, just a thought. |
Triumph TR-2/3 taillights may be close..
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I've got the originals but they are all red so no provision for indicators.
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why don't you keep the all red lenses that you have and hide a couple of amber units inside those rear vents ?
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Front Indicators
I would go for A35 style sidelights (Lucas L516) with amber LEDs in home-made bulbs, mounted where you've shown the too modern looking (IMHO) repeaters. A suitable resistance would be needed to fool the flasher unit.
Just a thought. Regards, Mick |
This car has the tear drop style front indicators/side repeaters (must admit I would have placed them and inch or two further forward) and indicators at the rear in the vents. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QwNgefrTdSM
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