Exterior Door Locks
 

One of the few exterior aspects of the Vortex that I do not like is the exterior keylock fitted half way down the driver's door. I can see why they put it there, given the actuation on the lock mechanism.

I'm using Rover 827 locks (not MGF ones) and intend to leave the electric actuators on them for central locking. I've sussed the wiring with help from a copy of Rover's Electrical Fault Finding Manual so hope to be able to connect them up to Phantom's bast&%**d wiring loom - with a bit of luck :)

Question is, has anyone used an external electric keyswitch (triggering the lock's actuator motor) rather than a mechanical one? I reckon I need one with momentary contact clockwise (say) to lock and anticlockwise to open. Has anyone sourced such a switch - maybe Maplin or RS? I reckon it would look a hell of a lot neater just forward of the door's external push-button compared to the one Phantom suggest.

Any thoughts or advice?

Greg

I'm not bothering with an external key at all, just hope the central locking never packs up.

same here, no exterior lock. however there may be a hidden pair of wires somewhere which if 12v is put to may unlock one door, as an emergency measure, dont forget you need a way to get in when the cars batt goes flat :)

Glad you thought of that Ed I was all ready to just trust it never went wrong. Bit optimistic as I recently flatened the battery on my Renault Espace when I left the lights on after driving in the rain during the day, only had the car about a week so didn't understand the sqweeks and chirps when I locked it but obviously one was trying to tell me about the lights - dohh !
When I came back about 6 hours later there was enough battery left to open the car but that was it. Couldn't even bump start it as it's got an electric hand brake.

>>Couldn't even bump start it as it's got an electric hand brake.<<

Now that's what I call weird! I've driven Saabs for the past few years and the earlier ones (before my time) have the handbrake acting on the front wheels which is strange - but electric handbrake is far more odd!

On the Vortex, maybe a couple of insulated studs behind the side air intake or under the rear end for a 12volt kick to the doors if the car's battery runs out? It still leaves the steering lock and any other immobiliser intact as anti-tealeaf measures.

Greg

I've just been fitting central locking motors to my doors and while I was at it I filled the door lock hole.

I think I'll connect some 'jumper' wires to the output of the alarm so they both lock/unlock with the applied 12V just in case one of the motors fails as extra back-up!

Just have to think where to hide the jump points, I may even fit them under the bonnet and hide a loose wire pull externally to pop the bonnet open in case of the alarm failing, then access to the battery is still available to jump it myself..

Rich

On the subject of doors has anyone put any weep holes in the bottom of the doors and if so how many and what position ?

Chris had put about 5 20mm holes in the rear of my door base but I'm tempted to put even more, the main idea is to let the car vent air out so your heater fan can work freely. It was a common problem with GTM Libras as they are so air tight (like the phantom body) and the result was very stuffy interiors..
Rich

All I was thinking about was any water that might leak past the window seal.
Do you get enough air flow through the openings in the doors or should we be thinking about larger area vents elsewhere in the cabin ?

My libra was fine, the holes worked very well but I can't comment on the phantom. It will be down to how much air can get past the top of the door panel by the glass, don't think it will be a problem.
Rich

I still have huge problems with ventilation in my car, the intake for the air-con?vent is now extended out to the wheel arch but still runs very warm after ten miles or so. The air-con is fighting the warm air entering the mixer and as such |I can never get the car cool!

The side windows are well designed and can be run open at quite high speeds however they leak like a sieve and you do need huge drain holes in the doors to prevent blockage. When left out in the rain the water drops straight on to the sill and hence soaks the carpet, it would be better if the rubbers were somewhat over the glass rather than just up against it IYSWIM, there is not enough pressure to forma good seal although wind noise is not a problem.

Hope you are all progressing well.

Nick

warm air from where Nick? the rad? i thought the new air vent going into the wheel arch sorted the air con issue, i assume you're using an mgf heater are you?

I'm going to use some rectangular section plumbing pipe along the top of the inner wing and duct air in from the passenger side air intake so should be cool. Angles and flexible pipe adapters are easy to get too..

I really am not sure where the warm air is coming in! The unit is sealed as well as I can and the extension made to the wheelarch so cold air there. All I know is somewhere it is mixing and coming out warm at the vents. I've put all new controls on the matrix and yes it is an MGF unit.

Nickhttp://www.finalshare.net/forum/styl...LGFEVE110a.gif

is the matrix still getting hot maybe with the valve on cold? try holding the outlet pipe when the heaters been on cold a while and if its warm then warm water must still be getting through the matrix?