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-   -   Fuses and fuse ratings. (http://www.madabout-kitcars.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2434)

nutter 14th December 2009 15:44

Fuses and fuse ratings.
 
Hi all fellow EXi builders.

I need to build a new wiring loom, and want to check a few things against the original Marlin supplied loom.
To save me alot of time and hassle can someone who has an orginal supplied Marlin loom, please let me know the following information..

Total number of fueses in supplied loom.
Fuses rating and for which circuit that fuse applies to.
Total number of relays
Is each relay, fused as separatley from the realy control? If so whatis relay fuse.

Are the headlights circuit on a separate fuse, i.e left and right?
Is the number plate light serpatly fused? or is it in with the sidelights?

If anyone has a wiring diagram as well that would be a bonus.

I am currently designing a wiring loom for marlin, and just want to compare what they had, with what they want/need now.

Thanks in advance
Steve

limpabit 14th December 2009 20:08

Hi Nutter.

Have a look at this post to help you out which fuse does what.

http://www.madabout-kitcars.com/foru...highlight=fuse

When Marlin supplied the loom, they included a little diagram with wire colour codes and where they are on the car. It's in electronic format on there CD I think. Also has a word document with it all in writing. Can post it on to this forum but don't want to in case of copyright from Marlin.

I started off with the standard Marlin loom and expanded it. For example, Marlin only supplied one relay for the cooling fan. Build had to supply a flasher relay. They were the only 2 relays used. I expanded the relays for Cigar lighter, Front/rear fogs and horn. And used another fuse box.

Also used a standard Rover fuse box for the engine and other bits as Marlin recommended for the rear of the car. So 3 fuse boxes altogether.

Now when design yours, you need to concider are you using donor fuse boxes (Rover for example), kit fuse box etc or a mixture.

Also make as easy as possible for builder with connectors on the end. So just plug and play. Then just say to builder, "here's loom", you need x.y.z fusebox and works with this engine. If that makes sense.

nutter 14th December 2009 20:44

Hi Thanks for the reply
Don't post it on the forum, you would infringe copyright.

The current CD does not have any wiring information.

Not going to use anything from the donor, with regards to fuse holders. it all needs to be donor independent.
Quote:

Also make as easy as possible for builder with connectors on the end. So just plug and play. Then just say to builder, "here's loom", you need x.y.z fusebox and works with this engine. If that makes sense.
Definetly, the way forward.

Could you email me what you have from your CD? my email address is in my profile.
Thanks
Steve

alackofspeed 14th December 2009 20:47

I built my own loom, so don't know what Marlin's loom has on it, but european convention is to have left and right sidelights seperately fused, with the numberplate light on one (or both if there are two bulbs) of those circuits. Separate fuses for dipped beam, beam, fogs, reverse, brake. Toyotas seem to have a seperate relay for dipped beam, with a fuse for each side.....

It certainly varies from one manufacturer to the other.

When I built mine, I used the Rover wiring diagram in the Haynes manual as a starting point - it makes sense to do so, given the major switchgear is from the Rover, so you can be sure your wiper logic for example, works. It'll also help to ensure you have the correct fuse ratings for the stalks.

Best of luck - it tooks me weeks to make my loom, not least because I extended the ECU wiring from by 3m (80 soldering joints, just for that....), but putting in a variable time intermittent, sussing out the Honda dials, and using a "trendy" hazard switch, which didn't contain standard hazard switch logic took alarming amounts of time.

limpabit 15th December 2009 05:49

Opps forgot to put the link to the fuses post above.

http://www.madabout-kitcars.com/foru...highlight=fuse

The other problems you will have to overcome (not sure how Marlin did it for there race cars), is the incompatability between the Rover dials and VW sensors. EG temp gauge and oil pressure sensor. This will all need to be documented.

But I would guess Marlin are now using the SEAT instrument pack. If this is the case, it would be far easier to completley go all for VW/SEAT donor, switch gear the lot. Then just wire one colour coded system based on the VW. Or all black wires with numbered tags on the ends for identification.

Might be of some use this link. Document I made up.

http://www.kitcar.good-hosting.co.uk.../ELECTRICS.doc

I'll send you the other documents by email.

nutter 15th December 2009 08:28

The switch gear is all going to be from a desired donor, or bespoke.

I am proposing to using basic colouring red, black,brown,blue,yellow, white purple and number them, with tags. So you will have blue-1,blue-2 yelllow-3 etc
Buying in all the different colours, blue on white, white on blue, seems like a false econonmy. (at the moment anyway)

I dont have a problem (not scared) of the wiring, just looking for anything above and beyond the normal with what other builders have faced, modifications they might like to see in a new loom, comparing what I am proposing with the original wiring loom, and any extensions that people have had to add on.

The post you made is a good read and the comment about the original loom being under rated is an interesting one. I have considered the voltage drop issue inthe new loom, and will take that into account in the new design.

The redesign is allowing builders to move forward who have elected the VAG option, or race car option.

Cheers
Steve

limpabit 15th December 2009 14:22

Just remember a "feature" of the origional loom. The hazard switch wiring. Remember trying to get the hazards working. The most complicated bit of electrics on the car I think. One of the switched positives to the hazard switch/relay (can't remember at the minute) was wired wrong.

nutter 15th December 2009 15:14

Thanks
Will remember that,

DavidH 20th December 2009 15:09

Yeah I had to make a loom from scratch, and made sure left and right side and dipped were seperated, so a fuse blowing only knocks out one side. Rover used high current switch's hence Marlins orginal design not using much in the way of relays, however when I designed the loom I went down the relay route for all Lights and Horn's so as to be donor independant. The Hazards were the trikey part as you need to design that for the switch and relay you plan to use. I used a standard Halfords flasher relay 8 in the end, a generic switch 10 a diode and standard relay to make it all work, when I remembered the diode (to stop back flow through the bulb in switch) it worked great. I designed the whole loom as independant from the engine option e.g. I have an engine bay loom used Rover fusebox which only required 4 wires to the front. And a dash/lights etc loom that controls all other functions, the only cross links being for the alarm to control the lights and horn on locking and unlocking. So I have a seperate fuse/relay box (generic) in the passenger footwell.

I also have put in extra front to back earthing capacity rather than relying on the chassis although it is earthbonded at fuel tank (IVA REQUIREMENT) and the engine and fuel filler as metal and isolated from tank by hose (IVA REQUIREMENT)

Mark did have a copy of my design at one time as he was going to use it moving forwards, although I have made some mod's since to improve it.

Best of luck, especially cost wise. Mine cost about 300 to make I'd estimate but it was much more conventional than the previous design on wire ratings and circuit isolation, as I was willing to forgo some weight for a design that suited my needs. BTW go for thin-wall insulated wire, you can increase current without wieght considerably by this route.

Cheers

David.


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