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-   -   3D printing (http://www.madabout-kitcars.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6424)

WorldClassAccident 14th July 2017 11:58

3D printing
 
I have just treated myself to a Tevo Tarantula 3d printer kit which should be arriving in the next 10 days.

I am planning on printing a couple of badges for my car and similar stuff. Not really sure what but for 155 it seemed worth trying.

If any of you clever artistic types want to know out some designs for stuff I will probably print them as test pieces and post back to you for cost. This offer is only open until I work out what I am doing and comes with no guarantees.

It can print ABS and PLA. I have no more idea of any more details than you beyond this. If you have any technical questions then please ask Google. If you want me to print something then PM me and we can discuss.

I am not doing this as a business and I am not trying to make money out of it. Do not expect batches of hundreds, it is just an opportunity for me to learn to print and possibly provide something useful.

mazdarazmataz 14th July 2017 15:40

How large an item can you print? And how smooth will the final product be?

WorldClassAccident 14th July 2017 16:44

20cm cubed but big stuff takes ages apparently.

The finished stuff appears fairly good, sand off the points where there were any support rods, primer and paint apparently

I will post as detailed as picture as possible when I get it.

Lucky@LeMans 14th July 2017 17:46

Plenty on youtube with this particular printer. The results look good from what I can see. A lot will depend on your programming skills I would think !

275NART 14th July 2017 18:05

I have a cheaper desktop printer (makerbot) bought 5 or 6 years ago and it has really taken me a long time to get all kinks worked out. You will have problems with the print head clogging, layers separating, the part lifting off of the build plate etc. It's just the way it is unless you spend $20000+ on a machine.

I will give you a few tips that really helped me

-make sure your build plate is perfectly leveled and distanced to the print head.

-wrap calphon tape on the build plate and Pre "paint" your build plate with a solution of abs scraps dissolved in acetone. You can put it on a paper cloth and wipe it on really thin. This will ensure your part does not lift during printing

-build intricate parts in sections so that helps you avoid "support material" or having a big part 75% done and then the top layers mess up! Your finished part can be glued together in sections with the abs solution you already made up.

-Use "fast" print speeds and make the build plate hotter than suggested (if it can be heated) and also set the print head temp 10 or 20 degrees over what online "getting started" articles suggest. If you can update your firmware to allow accelerated printing, do that.

- I use solidworks for solid modeling. You don't have to get a legitimate copy (hopefully I'm not breaking the rules here) :eusa_whistle: It is way more user friendly than the free programs like sketchup. It's the best when you want correctly dimensioned parts and engineering drawings. There are some great solidworks tutorials on youtube that will walk you through the main tools for taking a sketch to a part.

mazdarazmataz 14th July 2017 18:11

Do you think these are possible?

https://thumb.ibb.co/mGpnja/s_l225.jpg

WorldClassAccident 14th July 2017 18:19

275NART - It has a heated plate and can print PLA, ABS and other so will experiment. I plan to have a tempered glass sheet over the heat bed. I have many different suggestions for coating it - anything from 3M tape to hairspray. I have watched much YouTube about the problems and am expecting some or all of them.

Mazderazmataz - All things are possible. You send me the file to print. Remember it will come out as blue plastic so you will need to spray it.

It might be worth using my cheap plastic printouts to test your design and then send it to a proper printer to get them printed in real metal/ceramic/your choice

Jaguartvr 14th July 2017 18:48

If you want to practice there is a section on ThePirateBay in the physibles section.
Not much choice at the moment but you can choose between a Nerf gun, butt plug or a 3D dildo.:jaw:

lancelot link 14th July 2017 19:00

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jaguartvr (Post 89474)
If you want to practice there is a section on ThePirateBay in the physibles section.
Not much choice at the moment but you can choose between a Nerf gun, butt plug or a 3D dildo.:jaw:

I get my butt plugs made from licquorice personally ...

zagmad 14th July 2017 19:01

Wouldn't mind two tribute badges to go on the front wings.

WorldClassAccident 14th July 2017 19:29

Zag - If I do get a decent Tribute badge sorted out (CHRIS is good at design) I might let a few prototypes out the back door but as i said. It can only print plastic so I will let Chris OWN and PERFECT the badges on my cheap printer before deciding IF he wants to get some printed properly.

The prototypes and stuff 'might' be available.

If you, instead of Chris want to design one, the same deal goes.

I am planning to try to do a NART 250 badge for my short nose and a WCA Prototipo Barchetta for the long nose. Different fonts and NART will have the stars and stripes but all part of the motivation to buy the printer

zagmad 14th July 2017 19:52

If a tribute badge isn't available then a barcardi bat would nice :-).

Lucky@LeMans 14th July 2017 22:01

Quote:

Originally Posted by zagmad (Post 89478)
Wouldn't mind two tribute badges to go on the front wings.

I would suggest you might want to get some nice shiny stainless steel ones laser cut in a small batch. I did a set for JaguarTVR a while back, will be better than anything in plastic.

WorldClassAccident 15th July 2017 07:43

Lucky is absolutely right about any flat cut badges. Use the right tool for the job.

3D printing is useful where you want 3D features. Imagine a badge like this with the different colours And sections picked out in relief
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Ferrari-412P-...xXwTnE&vxp=mtr

That is where printing wins

Jaguartvr 15th July 2017 09:20

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lucky@LeMans (Post 89485)
I would suggest you might want to get some nice shiny stainless steel ones laser cut in a small batch. I did a set for JaguarTVR a while back, will be better than anything in plastic.


And very nice they were:thumb:

Lucky@LeMans 15th July 2017 10:15

Quote:

Originally Posted by WorldClassAccident (Post 89486)
Lucky is absolutely right about any flat cut badges. Use the right tool for the job.

3D printing is useful where you want 3D features. Imagine a badge like this with the different colours And sections picked out in relief
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Ferrari-412P-...xXwTnE&vxp=mtr

That is where printing wins

I just worked out what NART stands for;

Nubodi Automotive Racing Tribute

WorldClassAccident 15th July 2017 14:18

I assumed it was Nick's A Right Tw@t

swifty 16th July 2017 23:24

Try pinshape.com there's free files to download and some you have to pay for, used these at work when setting printers up or as previously mentioned solidworks is a good cad software to design your own parts.

fatbloke 19th July 2017 20:20

I have a 3D printed Tribute badge on the front of my MX. I've painted it black at the chrome spray was a bit crap. You can have 3D prints metal coated which gives the same weather resistance as metal but much lighter (many of the pieces you see on F1 cars are printed and then metal coated).

I had mine made made by some former work colleagues who have a very expensive SLA printer and I think they look pretty good. The skill is creating the 3D file to send to the printer.

Jaguartvr 19th July 2017 21:09

Boot badge in polished stainless steel (thanks lucky)
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4320/...1dfebc43_k.jpgIMG_2434 copy by jaguartvr, on FlickrI also had "Spider" made up but probably won't use it.
I did have a few made up if anyone wants one let me know.
For the decerning owner who doesn't want it covered in Ferrari badges!


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