body fit
 

Hi all

I am about to start fitting my bodywork and I am looking for any tips and advice before I start so, I do not make a pigs ear of it.

As I understand you bolt the front and rear panels to the side panels and then attach the body to the chassis. Is this after or before you attach the side panels to the chassis? Do you fix the front and rear body panels first then shim them up to get the best fit. Are there any good tips to getting the body to fit right?

Are the inner and outer side panels joined together before trying to fit them and is there much trimming required to get a fit. There appears to be quite a bit to remove from the inner side panel to avoid the rear role bar uprights and rear bulkhead capping panel

Any help would be very welcome

Regards tony g

tony-g,

this is the most difficult area of the build. :eusa_doh:
there are no datums.

i would advise that you get some g-clamps. sized to ensure you can clamp the mid-sections to the bottom rail. this helps to settle the mid-sections in their final vertical position.

more later when i return from holiday!

john
marlinturbo

body
 

Hi Tony,
This was certainly the most difficult area for me having zilch experience in bodywork. I struggled with it initially trying to get gaps close and also the alignment around the windscreen. It is not perfect now but acceptable. I read the article in which kit from John Watson on fitting body and there were good tips in that.
The side panels need to be fitted first with a small gap between inner panel and dashboard, the dash can also be adjusted up if required. The problem is when you alter any one thing it affects everything else. To fit it through the roll bar I would allow a generous clearance, Marlin themselves do this if you have a good look, a tighter clearance would show up a small error much more than a larger clearance. Once the sides are fitted you can offer up the front and rear sections, as they locate on to the preformed joints they should be a good fit as long as the front of the panel is at the correct height, you can see this if you attempt to lift the panel up the gap will increase at the bottom of the joint and vice-versa. The front can be adjusted with shims under the hinges, the rear frame is allowed to move up or down on slotted holes. I also had to file out the slotted track to sit the back down further.
I hope this helps in some way, but everybody has there own way of doing things and this is just my way after a lot of head scratching.

Brian

thanks brian and john for the tips i am bittig the bullet and making a start.

Has any body had problems with the rear body slotted hinge. My hinge is in the niddle of the body work but when i fit into the chassis slotted hinge and slide it forward one side will not go far enough forward to meet the rear bulkhead capping panel. With the body aligned with the back bulkhead it looks like the body needs to go a further 10 to 15 mm further forward but the driver side has reached the end of the hinge slot but passenger side has a further 20 mm of slot.

all the best

tony -g

body
 

Hi Tony,
I had to file mine deeper. hth. Brian.