New MX250 Builder....
 

Hello there.

I've recently got hold of a part finished MX250 / Mk1 MX-5 build that I'm looking to complete and haul around as a daily - decided that it's high time I had a mid life crisis (despite not being old enough in the traditional sense yet) and got myself something fun and ludicrously impractical to drive again.

Initial triage is looking promising:

rear : is all but complete, all bonded and blended to the door shut line, just need to install / bond in the rear window, install lights / number plate and sort a temporary rig exhaust so I can get it MOT'd (as I'm planning to go for a full stainless system eventually)

front: seemingly not started - need to install the wing extension plates, re-install the wings and do the 'Mk2 mod' (on the door shutline blend) as it seems the panel gap isn't great with the new front in position with the wings off (I thought it was bolt-on the Mk1?), cut for the scuttle and rivet / bond / fill it all down.

electrics: no progress at all - currently planning on 3d printing some connectors for whatever lights I end up using, as unless I solder the lot anything crimped without additional support will irritate me immensely.

interior: TBD. initial plan is to run on the MX-5 interior. Possibly thinking on a full dash rip out and retro style dash job (I'll be using my wife's Herald as a guide on this one...). There are a few real nice refits being done which can have ideas taken from.... Also playing with the idea of a couple of spare bucket seats / harnesses I have left over from a previous car that may go in too.

Cheers...I'll probably have more to ask when I get back on it at the weekend!


Tom

First one....
 

How does the nose of the front part of the kit fix down? I can see that the back is glued / riveted down...I presume the section on the wing extension is too, is there anything further forward that is held down too?

Cheers
Tom

I can't hep

Read this

http://www.madabout-kitcars.com/foru...ead.php?t=3943

If not read a few of the builds in the tribute section

Hi mate, and welcome.

The half finished one you have just picked up wasn't on Ebay was it? Silver base car????

Any way, try this link for a good build thread
http://www.madabout-kitcars.com/foru...ead.php?t=3943

I am currently building a Mk2 so cant offer much help on the front end thing, however like you I have just picked up a half finished Mk1. So no doubt will be having the same predicament. Have a good look through the stickies at the top of the Tribute page, some really good builds there that will probably be useful.

Good luck mate.

Yes, that be the one. I did go and have a good poke around prior to committing any cash. To be honest provided the back end stays attached job's a good one - I'll have more confidence in my own work (false or not!?)

I was toying over it too, but as I already have 2 on the go I thought I would let someone else benefit. Don't want to appear greedy! It looked in fairly good order, bargain too at that price!

Welcome to the forum. I hope you got a good price for it because as it was it seemed a but expensive...

I'm doing a mk1 build, albeit a convertible version. The front end was relatively easy. I think the kit has been revised a few times, perhaps yours is an early one?

What part of the world are you in?

The front end doesn't sit right until you remove the old bonnet hinges (I had to grind mine off) and you have to make a small cut to chassis to fit the headlamps (see my build)

Get some pics up of your problem and might be able to help.

Welcome to the forum and have fun building!

Panel gap to door and bonnet wasn't great on mine, I used a product called indasa power weld to get good shutlines. My kit is seemingly OK with the original windscreen wipers in their original position

It's not a recent one - it's been in storage for at least 2 years

Leicestershire, UK officially but normally bound to a desk further north....

Noted, will get Mr. Grinder out then :)

Will do, once I establish whether there's an issue or not - it hasn't got the wing extenders on yet so it certainly wont sit right.

Having said that, thanks for the advice regarding original wiper positions - I quite like what grayone did with his cutouts if it comes to that.

Where further north? I'm in Cheshire

You bonnet hinges may unbolt, grinded mine off because all my bolts shear

I know the front end was just placed on in the pictures. Did it come with the inner wing extenders? 2 x pices of GRP about 8 inches wide and 2.5 feet long?

I know i am doing a mk2 but the principle is still the same:
Front end strip (done on yours) Remove coolant header tank (reposition at a later date) Remove fuse box (reposition at a later date)
Fit inner wing extenders
Trial fit front end to check heights and fit (mark any trimming needed)
Remove front end / grind / smooth / refit / mark any trimming etc until you are happy
Fit front end and drill, rivet and bolt on. DO NOT use adhesive, apparently this is very relevant on the MK1 as should you need to change the windscreen you have to remove the front end (maybe some of the MK1 builders could shed some more light). I riveted / bolted across the bulkhead, inner wings and slam panel, I will send some pics if you PM me your email?

Sorry I'm being crap on the updates - not finding much time to go play with the MX at present.

ANYWAY...I've so far burnt around 15 hours on precursory work up front removing the alternator (which had seized) - whoever decided to tap a forward flange of a reverse bolted connection, then use an steel bolt [ally flange] needs shooting. Had to air chisel it off after rounding the lower bolt.

The biggest tale of woe so far is the undertray bolts, all of which are being slowly drilled out and replaced with nutserts. Slow job as I've only just realised my drill bits are rather blunt! With any luck they'll be out over the weekend and I can get the rear electrics sorted.

Yep, they're there....I've just been waylaid regards getting them installed

Looks that way yes, unless you cut the front end back to the scuttle line (I'm toying with this idea atm).

That would be very well appreciated. Will do.

Cumbria for my sins!

All of that lot, luckily is long gone!

Get some cobalt steel bits- they make HSS look like toys.

They do...if you use them correctly! I've found them to be very heat sensitive - they need a good cool / rest / go again cycle and plenty of coolant but otherwise yes they work a treat.

Finally got all 6 undertray rivet nuts out and re-set at the weekend (needed a good day throwing at it - just haven't had the time so have been throwing odd hours at it and been hampered by discharged batteries etc.)

Have now moved onto the back end wiring - all loom alterations (excl. rear fogs) are done, now just need to tape it up and install the lights...more rivet nuts to set...yay (at least these are M4's so can be done by the gun rather than spanner)

Time for a stupid question - when installing the wing extension plates on the front, do I need to grind the lip on the inside edge flush or not? I can't tell how the blighters are meant to sit!

Cheers!

I don't remember grinding any lip back, and I used some flush bolts instead of rivets to attach (so if I needed access later)

Attached using the standard wing bolts. All clear the GRP front section adequately. FYI the lip is no issue when you put the front on.

Has anyone had to adjust the front end fit around the base of the A pillar? I'm thinking the area marked in blue (see attached) needs cutting back to dress up to the A pillar base... Thoughts appreciated!

Good news!

Wheels are on (so I can assess how much they need banding / spacing) and I've trial fitted the front end. The front end is sagging to one side slightly (due to a failed spring on that side and a bit of natural warpage (the kit is a good 2-3 years old at least), which disturbs the shutlines at the doors and the bonnet. Luckily with some expert jacking all of this falls back into place nicely.

Have ordered the splitter rods, so am hoping to do a better fit of it next weekend with a bit of luck.

Famous last words.....

Failed spring took an investment in new kit (Blowtorch, air grinder) and many hours of swearing (at least 6!!), plus a new shock absorber to resolve. Still got another one to do but that'll wait.

With all of that in place, the front end sits absolutely sod all like level - lines up great at the NSF wing and both front end corners, but the OSF wing is a good 2-3mm inwards and a good 10mm too high, at best it's a good 5mm too high but wont bend any more so no chance it'll bend out alone. Looks like I'm going to have to relief cut and / or just cut the section out and patch it. Bugger! I wanted to learn GRP repairs on non-critical stuff really...

I'm intending to get all nerdish on it this weekend and check alignment of everything to a decent degree (+/- 2mm), but I suspect it'll tell me what I already know.

Can you get some pictures of the problem. My front end didn't sit right until I removed the old bonnet hinges which I had to grind off as the bolts were well seized

Sounds silly but have you checked for anything blocking the way at the door? I assume that's where the problem is Folsom your description? My front end had a tab to meet up with an existing bolt behind the door, only on the drivers side though? This tab was positioned wrong so I actually had to cut it off in the end to get the whole kit sitting right. I also had to remove a massive chunk of the front number to get the kit to sit down fully on the chassis above the radiator.

Just a thought, have you chopped the two corners of the plastic bumper reinforcement off?

Yes, I will next time I'm within earshot of the car... Bonnet hinges - will check and get Mr. G out again...

Ooh, that is particularly useful re tab positioning! Passenger side is clear - I've adjusted the checkstrap slightly so it clears the kit, drivers' side, don't know...I cant get the kit within 5mm of where it needs to go, but it doesn't look like anything is fouling. It's sitting perfectly on the front crossmember

Not yet no, but I haven't got my lights in yet (I'm intending on making adjustments to the crash box later)- again, it looks to clear everything but I'll have a proper look and report back.

This is more than likely your problem. The bumper bar needs cutting away as it fowls on the kit itself, not the headlights. Its the curved recess of where the headlight goes in that touches if its not cut away. If you put your hand through the headlight hole (assuming you've cut it out?) you'll feel where it touches the bumper reinforcement. Cut it and you'll see the kit drop into place :)

Checked and confirmed, front end is not clashing on anything. Looks as though the crash bar has been removed - I can get my hand easily behind the headlight hole. Haven't cut it, but 'copped a feel' and inspected it with the endoscope.

Car is also definitely devoid of the bonnet hinges

Pics attached of issue - front end is fine (pic #053), OS wing seats nicely top and bottom (pic #038), NS wing seats nice at the bottom (pic # 113) but not at the top (pic #120). The scuttle (bit that touches the windscreen to avoid confusion) appears to be catching on the windscreen in two places (pic #131_li for NS - lesser so on OS)

Pic #120 was taken with assistance from my foot holding the bottom of the front end in place - as you can see its a good 5-8mm higher than the A-pillar base. The OS remains aligned during all this and doesn't move.

This must be an earlier kit? As mine allowed me to retain the original wipers in their original position

I cut mine back to expose the wiper arms normal position as the front was fixed and not removable so if i ever need another screen it is accessible

I think chris must have altered the kit at some point as mine clears the standard wipers just fine

When is ordered mine is had the potion to go to the windscreen or not. It went with the same as mazdarazmataz.

My solution would be you should have wing mounting points on the front clam shell. This should meet up nicely to the original front wing mountings about 12 inches down from the top. Reachable from inside the wheel arch. If there is a gap, from this thread is guess that there is is would remove that distance from the excess around the windscreen leading edge. Once the sides fit around d bolt up tight is would then set around out marking the final leading edge shape and trim back accordingly.

Sounds like all roads are going down the same direction - I've given the car an hour or so and experimented sequentially cutting back areas of the front 'scuttle' where it's clashing with the windscreen, to some success - the clash areas are sequentially getting smaller and smaller.

My solution involves using a card / filler knife as a feeler gauge to feel for gaps, marking accordingly then cutting away.

Thought the wing mount was clashing, relief cut it then snapped it off, :icon_sad: so will have to sort later.

I've found the thickness of clamshell to be quite (inexplicably!) variable - it's around 50% thicker at the ends that need the flexibility to get the fit, and changes between a nice chamfered edge in the middle to a plain butt edge at the ends, which is complicating issues slightly!

Further good news, I've been making further sequential cuts (3mm slivers. probably 3 more - total of 10mm cut back overall) where the front meets the windscreen, only aiming ease the clashing areas. It just about fits now - needs a bit more fettling then I need to repair the wing-top mount tag then I can actually crack on!

In other news...I've actually made a bit of progress. Less than I wanted as per usual but any is good TBH.

1. Front end is now sat correctly in all places.
2. Wing door end bottom fixings remediated
3. Bolts / Rivet nuts set on wing-ex plates and on demi-firewall (can't think of a better name for the bit the bonnet seal was on!!)
4. Front end 'mould adjustment cuts' glassed in [1056, 1057 atts], reinforced, P38'd and cut to approx shape
5. Rear light plates cut from 3mm ally and rivet nuts set (to be bonded onto shell on Thursday) [att 1058]

This weekend's plan is thus:

1. Finish coarse body repairs - glass in new drivers side top tag
2. Bond in rear light plates and install rear lights
2a. Bond in rear window possibly (requires headliner finishing and a minor bit of electrics to do, but would be quite a coup!)
3. Start and hopefully finish front stay bars (lower wheelarch stays)
4. Drill investigatory wiper holes and try and skin that cat...

Time allowing...start front lighting install.

I'm not going to finish the coarse bodywork yet - still have a door bump strip to delete and mirror mounting lug set to remove and have more glassing to do, some depending on the results of the wiper drilling and some to install the fuel filler.

Progress...

Rear light plates bonded in.
Rear window caulked in.
Rear light chassis earths set
Osf top tag re-glassed.
Work started on staybars.
Wiper spindles extended

This weekend...

Staybars to finish
Boot lid and bonnet to install
Work to start on front lights

Quiet month due to pressing issues with latest acquisition (my OH cajoled me into buying a Morris Minor Traveller for a venture we're planning - spent the last 3 weeks trying to get the brakes to work!!!)

Have accidentally managed to complete the MX's front end wiring (just need to get the staybars finished, weld in some fillet plates - had to do the 'Raz mod to get the shell to fit into the front corners and the front end will be done. Hoping to get the rear lighting completed this weekend.

Obligatory lack of progress update...

Rear fogs and reflectors are nearly in and wired
Have selected the colour...RAL7009 in mid gloss

Moggy swallowing funds and time at present. Now had whole braking system renewed save for hard pipes. Fault traced to incomplete bleeding. Might be concluded by next weekend as I'm calling a mechanic in to finish it off.

Also can anyone please describe how headlight buckets are meant to be assembled? I can't make sense of this pile of parts!!

If you are having trouble with bleeding brakes try a vacuum bleeder, they make it much easier to remove stubborn bubbles. I have found that sometimes it helps to remove the calliper so you move it around to help the bubbles out and keep the bleed screw to the top.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hand-Held-...gAAOSw-kdXw9Ps