I saw these body halves pop up on Facebook good to see them put to use properly
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whoop whoop I am at the smile point when you step back to check what your doing. all been well l will have the bonnet made tomorrow bare bones ready
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cheers and thanks for the info Mister Towed, I will give them a ring when I have it sat on 4 wheels . |
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bonnet inner skin sorted, I have some 6mm high density foam that I am going to lay on the top and skin and glass over it to crate a sandwiched. I will have a look tomorrow its was already pretty stiff two lairs of 300g Woven Roving 2 of 450 csm and two of 300csm
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Holy Fibreglassing Batman!
https://static.independent.co.uk/s3f...2.jpg?w968h681 andysharrock – Great work, you really are making something from nothing. :cool: A few questions about how you made the nose… http://www.madabout-kitcars.com/foru...p;d=1591722130 What is the blue material and how did you shape it? Hard to tell from the photo, but is the blue set a few mm lower that the side pieces? (Allowing you to join the new piece to the sides from underneath.) Or was the blue material there to form a mould to make the nose from? Good luck, Paul. :) PS Just seeing the rolls of fibreglass matting on your garage wall is making me itch. :icon_wink: |
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Hi paul L ,the blue material is good old lino flooring off cuts grate stuff for shaping and bridging gaps the glass will not stick to it so its easy to pull it off when ready. I made up a rough frame out of MDF then shaped the lino over it, set it behind the body. trimmed it back when it was hard and glassed it in front and back the body is so thin it was on a couple of mm to build up. it was all set to eye with a bent taped measure bugger when you dont have any stright lines to work off
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Top Tip about using lino, as that has clearly worked well. :cool:
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some progress over the last few days ,I had some fire escapes replaced at work that were made out of 2" box steel seemed a shame to waste it. So I have framed out the inside of the main body and supported front and back at the top till I get it on a chassis .if nothing else its rock solid now but will still lift off when I need it to.
Attachment 6904 outer skin of bonnet now on rear boot lid made Attachment 6905 loads more filling and sanding to do ,I found a vintage speedster parts supplier in the states just waiting on shipping costs then we should see a big jump forward :usa2: |
Was it rusty tubs. The USA supplier ???
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Check out rusty tubs they have some good priced parts , bit of an odd website http://www.rustytubs.com/speedster.html |
believe me if they sell anything to do with speedsters I have been on there web site Im from Yorkshire we dont like wasting money up north.I found rusty tubs expensive look at 356A Speedster windshield post $225 or $95 with vintage.speedster emblem $25 or $46 the VS emblem karmen Kollection was selling the £30each they are $11 that's a good mark up. door hinge best price I have found $24 or a light weight alloy one for $750 EACH:yield: wtf excuse me
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deffo going to need some more fiberglass now body off for a spot of sunbathing
while put some extra fiberglass on all the joints and the areas that will be used to support the main body Attachment 6917 got the welder out to go over all the welds now the body is off under and over and it bloody packed in after an inch add another £150 for a new one bummer :smash: Attachment 6918 and body back on again decided to change the front around a bit more filling and sanding but taking shape Attachment 6919 |
Fascinating and fast progress, I do like your frame.
Have you decided on a chassis yet? Might be an idea to have a rolling chassis to line everything up to before fixing the panels in place. Also, I'm not sure if this is the change you're making, but the 356 and 356A have a bit of a beak in the centre of the front end rather than going straight across. You can see it in this pic - https://i.ibb.co/BsbbHL2/IMG-20200621-120029843.jpg The 356B and C models had a smooth curve, but the headlights are much higher up in the wings (I always thought that the Nissan Micra K12 front end would be a good starting point for a later model 356) - https://i.ibb.co/CQQDm3x/maxresdefault.jpg https://i.ibb.co/nnTCpxX/1024px-Niss...1-W-lfrath.jpg Images sourced here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=82NNlFTbwbs https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_Micra Anyway, I'm sure it's going to look stunning whatever direction you take! |
I have been looking for a chassis for a while managed to get a fully rebuilt spitfire one yesterday hoping to have if for next weekend. Not 5 minuets after putting the phone down did I get offered another fully rebuilt one typical but not complaining 400 quid all new ready to go. steel is here ready to chop and change things and I have a 1840cc MX5 sport lined up to pull all the parts from if things go to plan that should be here for the weekend too.The inner fame work has all the body bolted to it so it ridged I hoping to just notch out the frame I have made around the chassis and weld it on with some extra steel work off the out riggers and chassis rails. Well that's the plan, I do need the chassis here to make the boot inner frame and inner panels as its just an empty shell at the mo. headlights should be coming from vintage parts but still waiting on the shipping quote any problems I will get some early bug ones there always on ebay . this like my other cars is not a copy of anything I am going with the flow and changing things if I dont think it sits right it will get changed. do like the low slung wide boy look tho in black proper outlaw.
mister towed ware did you get the wheel adapters form to fit the bug wheels on your chassis:thumb: |
It took two sets and I replaced the Triumph studs with Land Rover Freelander ones which are much sturdier and fit the Satur adaptors -
https://www.mikesatur.co.uk/Wheel-Hu...e-Satur-design https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-4x100-...MAAOSwnF9Y71de I got the 5x205 adaptors directly from Limebug for £100 for four, but they don't seem to have them on their website any more. Would be worth calling them though. |
Completely in awe of this. Makes me realise how slow and backwards my method of shaping foam is!
I have no experience of fibreglass so terrified of using it, maybe I should just go for it? Looking forward to your next updates! |
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Yes you should go for it from the bits I have picked up along the way, dont do it in full sun it will set while your working on it . two thin lairs of CSM is better than one thick one because it wets out easier and holds the shape better. if its very cold add more catalyst.if it goes wrong dont panic let it set cut it out or sand t back and start again.:eusa_dance: |
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