Chortle.

Also , am I the only one who chuckles everytime someone mentions the Rimmer Bros. !!

No, you're not. I bet they had fun at school.

private school boys hey you two?

http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/...pscuxaiji1.jpg
front corner underway.

I built a Triumph based Marlin Roadster many years ago. Donor was a Spitfire. Using a brand new spring I had to remove one of the leaves to get the ride correct. If you leave all of the leaves in and just use a spacer block to adjust the height I guess that the ride will be a bit on the hard side...

Robin

I, as well as a few others who did their builds at the same time as me went for a 1" lowering block AND Swing Spring conversion and we generally found that gave a very good ride height with a not too bumpy ride.

But i'll admit that it wasn't the cheapest of solutions!! :)

I've kept the swing axles as they came out of the factory. I've been through a few different setups, but I've now settled (excuse the pun) on removal of the top three loose leaves from the stack, plus one leaf out of the next stack down (the one that's clamped to the main spring with 'U' clamps and bolts underneath), with no lowering blocks fitted at all. That's given me the right ride height for my tyres and a very compliant ride. The handling is also spot on with no discernible roll, while you can drive it much faster than when it had hard suspension because the tyres stay in contact with the road instead of jumping off all the time.

thanks Martin, Dave, Mr T.

Martin when you took a leaf out of the swing spring stack what did that do to the "hat" that the 4 studs bolt through - removing a leaf will reduce the thickness of the stack and does that leave too much "slack" in the stack? with the herald stack removal of leaves was easy, but not sure about the swing setup - if i did i am thinking of the middle leaf (third from top and bottom). do you have a photo?

Mr T i have already bought the swing spring kit so i'm going to use it!! when you removed a leaf that was u-bolted on, what did you then do with the u-bolt - shim it or sleeve it or leave it?

Dave did you need longer studs with a +1" block?

I also have no backplate for my front spit3 disks - problems? i dont really want to pay 45GBP for each back plate from my friends who bring primer and oxford such amusement.

thanks again guys.

Hi Tim, I used the leaf that has the 'U' clamps riveted to it so that they act as guides to keep the rest of the stack lined up, but I didn't bother putting any bolts back in underneath, as I'd had to cut them off due to corrosion. Hasn't affected the handling so it'll probably stay that way.

As for getting the right length securing bolts for the spring stack you end up with, below is copied from my build thread dated 16th November 2011 (page 7) -

A while back I asked if anyone knew what thread type the rear spring to differential mounting bolts were. I got a couple of different answers Gary J said 3/8" UNF while a couple of others said 3/8" UNC, so I identified a 3/8 UNF bolt removed from my chassis and it didn't fit. By a prociss of elimination I ordered enough 3/8 UNC threaded rod to make new studs for my extra lowered lowering block.

When the UNC rod arrived it didn't fit. I tried a new UNF bolt and it fitted. Checked the supposedly UNF bolt from my chassis that I'd used as a gauge and found that someone had used a UNC where it should've been UNF.

I can confirm, therefore, that the studs/bolts for the rear diff are 3/8" UNF.

No harm done, though, I'll be using the spare UNC rod in my handbrake mechanism.

Good luck getting the stance/ride/handling how you want them. :icon_cool:

If memory serves me right, i got longer bolts with the lowering block

Thanks gents. Here's a pic of my rear, prior to tying down the spring
http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/...psamdmaywv.jpg

snigger....

Nice work 1iTim, i hope to be at that stage pretty soon, the finned drum will look cool on the car.:cool:

hey E-P when you are old enough to drive you should get one of these cars...

I have the wheelstuds, heres why they look like on the back:http://s1332.photobucket.com/user/1i...tml?sort=3&o=1

And now with the rear on:
http://s1332.photobucket.com/user/1i...tml?sort=3&o=0
http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/...psxbcqpoe2.jpg

These were freelander studs, but caution they are 13mm at base not the imperial size, but they do go on.

I might just do that ........ :-)

My lathe...
http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/...pspmsar2ld.jpg

We buy from the same tool shop. That is how I did my lugs. It worked just fine and was quicker than I'd anticipated.

That reminds me... i need a new drive belt for my lathe!! :)

time for a question; the disc brake conversion stub axles are about 1/4 inch longer than the old ones which means the greas caps dont engage with the hub due to not clearing the axle and nut. does anyone know of hub grease caps that have the same base as the herald/spit caps but a higher 'dome'?

http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/...pslcapzg7h.jpg
discs and callipers on!

Shiny! Love how it is going.

What will you do next? Wheels or framework? Do you have any dusters?

looking good

still trying to find a solution for the grease caps that don't fit because the rimmer stub axles are 1/4 in too long. Any ideas of caps with same diameter but deeper 'dome'?

For now the old steelies will go on (spits) and i will probly keep them (tidy up a bit, new rubber) to keep the cost down, and upgrade them to minilites with 185 /70 R13 dunlop D83J's later.

Also, I've done engineering calcs on the herald seat runners and 2mm 6xxx aluminium and that will be fine for floors. The orig floor was 1mm steel, so that will do too, and is a cheaper option as i'll be able to cut fold and weld them myself (I think) and if i stuff it or it looks crap revert to the original (expensive) plan of getting aluminium cnc cut and folded and welded professionally. Quote for that was $300 (AUD) per side about a year ago so could be more.

Bye for now.
T

Looking good 1iTim, its just a big boys Meccano kit.

Do you have any photos of the problem you have with the hub grease caps and the Rimmer stub axles to help me understand exactly what the issue is.

here you go thanks swifty, kind of blurry and too close but hopefully you can get the idea.
http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9mxkyymx.jpg

heres a pic of the cap to the side:
http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/...pslzxgmoy9.jpg

it does not seat as the castle nut hits the dome of the cap.
any other TR stuff that will fit? or MG? or trailer ones...

1iTim have you tried posting the question on one of the triumph forums, i find www.club.triumph.org.uk/ is one of the good sites, the guys on there have the knowledge and are keen to help.

thanks swifty, will try.

otherwise i get creative with a section of 1.625 inch pipe...

my engine
 

Any plans for the engine, total strip down or trick bits?

engine
 

Well, open to suggestions, but not planning anything. I had it running pretty sweetly befpr tear down began. If i was inclined id do the head nice flow work and a pair or 1.25s, i have 1" su s at the mo, ddidnt know they went that small!. Exhaust headers would be nice but too pricey for now. I'll get a new pipe from manifold back in 1.5 inch, at present is 1.125 or somethin insanely small.
Its a 1296 from america with a 1147 head. I think the pump is flowing too much fuel, but not certain.

Thx, T

ok ladies and gents a couple of questions about how to measure the carbs specification. My 6port head has intake holes 1.25 inches in diameter, but the carb throats are 1.05. the intake manifold, on the head side, has sleeves that go inside the manifold smoothly into a nice matching rebate in the manifold, and these sleeves slot neatly into the head, but there is no rebate or step that these sleeves butt up to, creating a sharp expansion inside the head from 1.05 to 1.25 inches.

Is this set up called a 1.25 because thats the size of the head outer port? or would a 1.25 (1 1/4) be a measurement across the outer (air box side) throat of the carby (meaning i have twin H1s)?

If i do get some 1.25's will they have a larger 1.45 inch sleeve that is meant to slot into the head? I will avoid anything that involves machining the head.

i'm guessing that someone bought a 1300 short block and just bolted everything from the original engine onto it... If thats the case what are the things i need to look out for?

your input is valued...

rolling rolling rolling!
 

rolling chassis:
http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/...pshl0rp0jh.jpg

engine cleaned and dried and ready to be masked up for painting too.

Engine is in!
http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/...ps4d42a707.jpg

On the road by Friday then?

Why, have you got Wednesday off :-)

But looking nice

Thanks, off to register tomorrow. Ha seriouly need an exhaust then im done. Oh better order the body soon! And the ship to get it to the land of oz, ok a few more things on the imaginay list

http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/...psbbpkzwr3.jpg
Got an adapter for my oil filter. Should only be needed on 948's but my engine number indicates a 1300. Odd.

Got a mk2 zorst from mr+mr rimmer. Had to smooth out some harsh lips
http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/...psj0ivobwi.jpg