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This is based on an XJ12 and was factory built. It is used in some of the factory literature and was featured in some magazines as well, still has the same registration number.
It has the original Daytona windscreen rather than the TR7. Very rust free underneath but it only has 16K on the clock and has done very little mileage in the last 25 years so may be genuine. I'll post some pics tomorrow if it stops raining. One of the things that persuaded me to buy it is that it is 1976, so if I can get it MOT'd, it won't have to ever have another. I think this will make classics that much more desirable. No MOT, no car tax and £178 insurance plus of course hopefully no depreciation, in fact hopefully the opposite. |
With some fettling and TLC then it will definitely appreciate. I'll have to go through my Mags as I'm sure I found an old one recently and read about an XJ based RH Daytona. Might be yours, or I could be imagining it. :wacko:
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Retro fit the old 4 carb set up is going to be the simple route to take if the engine is good in all other respects. If you have any doubt about the rest of the engine it might be worth swopping it out all together for a easier to live with lump such as a Chevy V8 or similar.
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http://www.rob-beere-racing.co.uk/induction.html |
Some pictures as promised, was featured in Kit & Specialist cars November 99
url=https://postimg.cc/image/f2h58cpah/]https://s20.postimg.cc/biv7ijmkt/efesfd.jpg[/url] https://s20.postimg.cc/ppaydraal/fthfh.jpg https://s20.postimg.cc/67gaxtssd/ghfhg.jpg https://s20.postimg.cc/mv7t0b0el/ok_io.jpg Would rather stick with the V12 as it suits the car more than a V8. When revved it sounds very sweet and has great oil pressure so I think it should be OK I agree the Strombergs will probably be the best option but will probably try and get it tuned on a rolling road first. Has a nice straight through stainless exhaust with just back boxes, trouble is it has tailpipes that belong on some pimped out rice burner. I wonder what it would sound like with a complete straight through system, after it's MOT of course. If you get into double figures when driving it, you are driving it wrong! |
You are bonkers matey
Stark staring bonkers. :shocked::first::rockon:
But I love your enthusiasm. |
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Give Alan a call at www.enginetuner.co.uk he will give good advice as he has years of experience on many different set ups.
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:yo: Looks lovely, has fared very well, engine bay looks like its been looked after too.
Can I ask, is the bonnet single or double skinned. Mine is single and so think it is missing the underside skin. |
It is single skinned with a metal frame. The GRP is about an inch thick! It is all very heavily laid up and has stood the test of time well. I do have a Southern Roadcraft bonnet which is a thin flimsy thing in comparison. The Robin Hood seems to be far more substantial.
I have been onto Airey tuning, have a good reputation and are old school, carbs only no injection. More than happy to deal with a V12 6 carb set up, between £4>£500 depending on how many jets are needed. Bonus is it is right by my favourite pub, The Flowerpots in Cheriton. Car failed its MOT 2 years ago when the last owner bought it, failed on emissions, handbrake and rack mounts. I have spent the day under it and there are new handbrake pads and cable and the rack has new mounts. I know the previous owner took it in for some work, there is a full set of valves and buckets in the boot, he did say they took one head off but didn't seem to know why. Also in the boot is a bag full of new and used jets and diaphragms, I'm hoping they may have improved the emissions, may even be able to get an MOT before having it tuned. |
If its registered as a 1976 car I thought the only emissions test was a visual one for smoke ? I might be wrong but that should be easy if you can get it running right !
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1975, misses out by 3 months!
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Lots of other jobs, projects and holidays keep getting in the way so little progress.
The one thing preventing it from getting an MOT is the lack of brakes, I think I have tracked down the problem to the servo. Pig of a thing to change as the RS conversion has a metal sub frame welded over the top of the servo. This has been cut out to allow the servo to be replaced, if all well I will weld it back up afterwards. Feels better straight away but needs a road test which means moving loads of cars around. Wish me luck for tomorrows test drive. |
Had a test drive and the brakes are better BUT not good enough. Back to the drawing board. Before replacing the servo the brake pedal was solid with almost no movement. It now moves but you have to put far too much effort in pushing the brake pedal to get the car to stop. Ok for a round the block test but not for everyday driving.
I am wondering about fitting an electric vacuum pump. I have been told that running 6 Weber carbs doesn't produce much vacuum. Seems to have had new pads all round and the master cylinder doesn't look that old. Does anyone have any experience fitting an electric vacuum pump? |
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Haven't bleed the brakes. The rears normally have an access panel in the boot, due to the conversion the access panel has been covered, getting to the bleed nipples from underneath (inboard brakes) is a nightmare. When I had my E-Type I dropped the whole rear end and extended the brake lines from the bleed nipples to make access easier in future. I will do this on this car but don't want to do it just yet. Front brake nipples are seized so I need to source some replacements and go with speed bleeders. I did bleed the master cylinder by breaking the joints ay the first splitter. As all the pads and cables have been replaced I presumed the system had been bleed.
I have so much on at the moment that I am trying to cheat, rarely works. |
Nice
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Who's a muppet?
ME:cry:
I have been trying to fix a few minor things on the Daytona to get it through the MOT so that I can declare it MOT exempt. I understood it that it had to have an MOT before it could be declared exempt, this is wrong, you just declare it's age and fill out form v112 and amend the V5 to "historic vehicle" at the post office. So it's officially on the road:icon_biggrin: One thing is that a modified car has to have had the modifications done at least 30 years ago, I thought this might be a problem as I don't know when the car was converted. However, I was lucky and picked up a magazine article on my car from Ebay.com in the US. It has a 3 page article clearly showing my registration number and all the pages are dated 1988. Result! |
Lucky indeed. Congrats on the find.
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"Q-prefix, kit cars and reconstructed classic vehicles. The following vehicles (including motorcycles) are to be considered as substantially changed, unless they are taxed as an “historic vehicle” and have not been modified during the previous 30 years" |
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