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lancelot link 4th September 2016 18:04

I'M GLAD YOU MANAGED TO PERSUADE HIM TO REVERSE THAT CILL DECISION ...It was a nice idea but the practicality of it was always going to be an arse ache ... Coming on nicely now though Jeff ...

Barber 1st October 2016 21:10

Lovely

Paul L 2nd October 2016 06:40

Jeff - Amazing prep work. :cool:

Can't wait to see this is whatever shade of dark blue is chosen.

Good luck, Paul. :)

Roadster 2nd October 2016 07:17

A professional at work
We all inspire to finish our cars so well

I hope the customer sticks with the indigo blau

Ferrari are starting their 70th anniversary celebrations including 70 iconic liveries

The Stirling is one of them
http://auto.ferrari.com/en_EN/70-ann...ies-1957-1966/

Jaguartvr 2nd October 2016 09:26

What did you do in the afternoon?

Looking mighty fine, great gaps, they do seem to be one of the main make or break details. It looks as if you have built up the trailing edge of the bonnet to get the gap correct, I can't work out how you managed it. With my doors the new skin touched the edge of the bonnet all the way so that the door could not be opened fully. The only way I could work out to do it way to take material away from wing to allow the door to open but you have gone about it in the opposite way.

One point to watch out for is the bonnet hinge. I carefully made sure that my new profile on the door had plenty of clearance which it did. But I noticed I was getting a small chip on the edge. What I hadn't realised is that the hinge moves when the bonnet is closed,The door edge was pressing against it when fully open but the hinge has flex in it so I didn't notice it.
I had noticed on the DNA 2fifty video that they have small plates fitted to the inside of the check strap. I fitted 5mm plates and now the door doesn't hit the hinge.


Are you going to be painting the underside of the bonnet? They do to me look a little unfinished if not painted but I would hate to think how much prep work would be needed. As always I have a cunning bodge planned. I have sent away a sample of the paint I am intending to use and had 2.5 kilos of flow coat made to the nearest colour match they can get. I intend to coat the underneath of the bonnets and boot lid, It won't be anywhere as nice as paint but I think it will look much better than plain GRP. Just working on my bonnet and boot gaps, I'm aiming for 2mm all round.

hurnleft 2nd October 2016 10:54

Excellent work, blue really suits these.
Bob.

Jaguartvr 2nd October 2016 11:36

So you reshaped the bonnet to suit and made it thinner on the edge?

With the polyester primer filler, what grade of sandpaper will it hide? I know you are meant to use very fine paper but would suspect a coarser grade would give the timer something to grip onto.

Front top of the door panels where they meet the bonnet look much neater. Something on my "things to tackle" list.

Mitchelkitman 2nd October 2016 15:55

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jaguartvr (Post 83236)

Are you going to be painting the underside of the bonnet?

Believe it or not, all i did with my Quantum (which had already been on the road for 2 years), was to clean the rough underside of the bonnet with acetone and then brush painted matt black celulose paint on. It's lasted 5 years without falling off and looks good.

Lucky@LeMans 2nd October 2016 17:02

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeff H (Post 83244)
Yes Steve,

The trailing edge is about 2-3mm thick, it needs to be thin so that the door wont hit as it opens.

I knock the filler down with 80 grit to start, then I finish off with 120 followed by 240, the Reface will cover a multitude of sins, pinholes, scratches etc, I still have some small pinholes to fill this will be done with a fine filler before the final primer.

The other thing is the Reface wont go thru a normal gun, it needs to have a 2.5mm or 3mm setup, it goes on with a very rough finish.
http://i63.tinypic.com/xftih.jpg

I was going to use Reface on my Triumph Roadster but I'm not sure now. It says it can't go over aluminium so I've etch primed the car but it looks like you can't use it over etch primer. So I've gone over it with standard grey primer but this is an acrylic paint which might not be good under Reface either !

Mikewade 4th October 2016 19:11

Nice job!
What door seals are you using around the top of the door frames?

Mikewade 4th October 2016 19:35

Thanks, I can see that I'll have a problem with my frames (the top corner is touching, and the other top corner has a 12mm gap - so I'm thinking I'll have to do a lot of re-working. I had planned on getting them nickel plated (rather than chrome), but had to put some rust killer on them today, as the rust was 'taking a hold' I think I may paint them now.
Ref my build, I've just finished extending the front inner wings (using galvanised steel mesh, and fibreglass. Fixed using the 3 original fixing bolts at the front, and some rivnuts (never used these before, so it was a learning experience - the tool has to be unscrewed after use, so not that quick to use). At least the weather's been good - oh I was sidetracked with tarting up the disc brakes, the backing plate and outer edges of the discs are now a nice gloss black.

Jaguartvr 4th October 2016 23:11

I've bought my boot seal and window seals from
http://www.coh-baines.co.uk

Much cheapness

Mikewade 5th October 2016 20:30

Thanks for the link
 
Looks like a good company. Do you have the part numbers for what you ordered?

Jaguartvr 6th October 2016 07:51

DX84 draught excluder for the boot seal, 2.95 per meter.
OWS1 waist strip, this is the seal that fits between the glass and the top of the door I hope to user this rather than the alloy strip but I will have to build the door up at the top, Every other supplier only sells it in 1 meter lengths which is too short.

Mikewade 6th October 2016 19:05

Thank you, I'll have a look at those.
BTW Today, I've been working on the rear wheelarches liners (again galv. mesh with fibreglass. I know it's going over the top, and there are quicker cheaper ways of doing it, but I'm enjoying the process, and like to do a good job! I didn't see the need for any rivnuts, as they held themselves in place anyway, so just bonded them in with crystic bonding paste, then fibreglass around the edges. I'll put on a final layer of tissue tomorrow, and maybe a bit of filler to smooth it all off. Happy days!

Jaguartvr 6th October 2016 19:09

Pictures please

Mikewade 6th October 2016 19:30

Well, in reverse order...Yes, I ordered it from Chris with a cream gelcoat (Ral 1013), and Nubodi kindly removed the old panels, fitted new ones, and did the glass/locks and lights. Just leaving me with a bit of tinkering to do.
My plan is to have my own 'build' thread, but I haven't found the time yet, and don't want to hijack this one. So for the time being you'll have to use your imagination. I am taking photos as I go... Cheers, Mike

Mitchelkitman 6th October 2016 19:36

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mikewade (Post 83386)
Thank you, I'll have a look at those.
BTW Today, I've been working on the rear wheelarches liners (again galv. mesh with fibreglass. I know it's going over the top, and there are quicker cheaper ways of doing it, but I'm enjoying the process, and like to do a good job! I didn't see the need for any rivnuts, as they held themselves in place anyway, so just bonded them in with crystic bonding paste, then fibreglass around the edges. I'll put on a final layer of tissue tomorrow, and maybe a bit of filler to smooth it all off. Happy days!

If your'e trying to achieve an arch, one simple way I've found is to make a rectangle of fibreglass sheet (thin, only about 2mm max) and then just bend it to shape. It will bend back of course, but if you clamp it in the curved position, and add a GRP edge to it, once it's dry you have the desired shape in smooth GRP:first:

Mikewade 7th October 2016 22:08

Agreed, that sounds like a better idea. However, I'm happy that mine are strong and will help structurally.

Jaguartvr 10th October 2016 20:05

I use flexible garden bag fillers. Large plastic sheet that is 1mm thick, easy to cut with scissors, you can bend it with ease and stick it together with duct tape. Ideal to use as a former and layer GRP on top form inner wheel arches or to modify panels.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Easy-Fill-...oAAOxywXFSb7-B


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