Progress continues but not much worth a photo. Spent yesterday and plan to spend most evenings this week getting the body just right before I hand it over to the paint shop. Nothing major just fettling and a little filling here and there.

DVLA have returned my updated V5. Make is still BMW and model now reflects the body, so its correctly registered !

Bodywork is now pretty much sorted and the paint shop will soon have the car . I wanted to get it done this side of Christmas to avoid the really cold weather. Looking forward to a long hot summer and a trip to the LeMans Classic.

I've spent a few extra evenings on the bodywork before the paint shop gets the car in the week. Door gaps being the main area of work, mostly happy with them though the drivers side front edge has been a bit of a challenge. The near side sill turned out to be out of true by a fair amount. Skimmed and fettled a bit more than I would have liked but its done now. There are a few subtle bits for the painters to prep, they will be ok with that. I managed to smash the drivers side quarter window ( don't ask ! ) so I'll have to swop that out now ! Other than that I'm happy with the build so far. I'll get some photos up when its back from the painters.

Or change to coilovers?

My MOT tester warned me strongly against coilovers, he said they give a very harsh and unforgiving ride. I have tried Aspex and pro sport springs, the pro sprot springs collapsed after a week on the rear and the Aspex are not much better. Both of these springs are linear (whatever that means), I have been told by an expert that I need progressive springs so have bitten the bullet and bought a set of Eibach springs.
The 250swb does sit so much better on lowered springs, amazing what a small difference makes.

Which shocks are you using with the Eibach springs, and how much will it lower the 250? I need to visit this mod soon.

Just a standard replacement shocks, the springs are -30mm front and rear.

Thanks

Linear springs have evenly spaced coils, progressive are wound with large space one end of the coil and shorter space the other end. The idea is the closely wound end is softer and becomes coil bound as it compresses and then large spaced area takes over which is stiffer.

Typo, drop is -30mm not -130!

No worries, I figured that.
Any pics with the drop?

It is the same as my profile picture, click it and it will enlarge. These are of the earlier springs but they were also -30 and the picture was taken on the day they were fitted so hadn't yet collapsed.
The springs, tyre size and wheels all suddenly came together and it all makes it look so much better. The car isn't garaged but since changing the wheels and suspension it is impossible to take it out without someone stopping to admire it.
Currently working on a full interior. Dash (not Tributes) was awfull and only fitted where it touched (which wasn't in many places) is just about fitted, just doing a final modification to the mould. The speedo and rev counter also looked too flat so they have been adjusted and the top cowls made longer. I have also managed to incorporate the heater controls and am very pleased with how they have come out. I think the dash has taken more hours than the rest of the car. It has almost cost as much as the kit! No pictures yet as it is going to a trimmer to have it leather covered. I am also waiting for the mounting plinth for the small central instruments to come back from CNC. Should look stunning, well it bloody well should do after all the work.
Also bowed to popular pressure and removed the spare wheel so a twin stainless exhaust could be fitted. Kept the centre box and just pipe from there back, sounds great but not obnoxious. I have a phobia about not having a spare so the original space-saver lives in the boot. The car now obviously has knock-on hubs but a bit of forward thinking goes a long way. The hubs are held on by the original wheel bolts (shortened by 3mm) this way if you get a puncture, remove the wire wheel and hub and then fit the space saver using the original nuts. I have had a 3 earded spinner removing tool made up with a 2 foot
breaker bar so it is very easy to remove the spinners and nuts. I then have a locking bar that sits over 2 wheel bolts to lock the wheel so you can stop the hub from turning when undoing the bolts.
Sorry, didn't mean to hijack your excellent build thread.

That's perfect!
With all of your interior work it should be fabulous. Thanks.

Dash conversion sounds great, be sure to post some photos when its done !

Received the lower windscreen trim from Grassbank today, I've trimmed it up and should look smart on the finished car. It just visually raises the lower edge of the screen by about 3" to make it look wider, a bit more retro and less Z3.

Do you plan to modify the wiper arms as well?

So does it have a fake rubber along the top edge ?https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/i...axHbFIpzYzLIFA

I'll have to reduce the length of the wiper drive cranks by around 1/2" if I remember right. That will reduce the sweep of the wiper blades so they stay within the glass. The standard wiper arms can be used, just tweaked a little to get the angles correct. I also radiused each end of the panel so the trim will be curved rather than a sharp angle as in the photo.

I was going to make my own FRP part, and was referencing
Justin's photos, but the site is now down.
Should have saved them.

I intend to use genuine rubber !