I would think about throwing a metal body over this fantastic frame and engine instead of fibreglass...
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Axel- I have been giving that some serious thought lately. I have some timet getting all the mechanical and electrical sorted. I have been looking for a metal shaping class to take locally.
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Do you know the site allmetalshaping.com?
You will find a lot of info and help there. If you have the fibreglass body it would be easy to produce the metal panels after you have joined a shaping class with your talent and skills. |
I did a little trimming yesterday and got the engine to sit back and down where I want it.
http://i.imgur.com/AMenYe6.jpg http://i.imgur.com/0F4K44f.jpg http://i.imgur.com/yKr0r4B.jpg http://i.imgur.com/JQw5efa.jpg |
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I wish i had the knowlege and skills to do what you guys do. Looks fabulous.
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http://i.imgur.com/yLERW2F.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/QarFafQ.jpg more trimming on the tunnel and firewall |
Made the mounts. Although it took a while it was a lot more straight forward than I thought it could be.
http://i.imgur.com/pl7BU53.jpg http://i.imgur.com/OtO4cRW.jpg http://i.imgur.com/Wjk3TnN.jpg http://i.imgur.com/EdYtSd3.jpg http://i.imgur.com/AdQUUcz.jpg Final test fit http://i.imgur.com/YU8nYKH.jpg http://i.imgur.com/M1l0s47.jpg tacked into place http://i.imgur.com/uJnIYjN.jpg http://i.imgur.com/ojzRWc0.jpg set into place with only 4 small tacks per mount. Well that's reassurance that I can burn in strong welds! I need to refill my argon tank before I can finish the welds. |
Very nice work!
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High quality work as normal..
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Done loads of times for guys on my motorbike forum Happy to assist in anyway I can |
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Thanks fellas! Quote:
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Not a whole lot to report here but the pedal box is tacked back into place. I moved it over about 3.5" from the factory location.
http://i.imgur.com/FGuSk4Q.jpg http://i.imgur.com/6tK631n.jpg I ordered a few more materials so I can fab the trans mount shortly. |
Trans mount is done. First I had to make some little brackets with captive nuts
http://i.imgur.com/Y64GTHJ.jpg I welded those to the inside of the main frame rails http://i.imgur.com/50ggB6u.jpg Cut up the factory mustang trans mount I bought and bolted it into place http://i.imgur.com/vzDMRzI.jpg http://i.imgur.com/u769ipa.jpg boxing in those gaps http://i.imgur.com/quadO4O.jpg http://i.imgur.com/ft59BPT.jpg http://i.imgur.com/hswrUIw.jpg A lick of paint and it's good enough for now. http://i.imgur.com/ex6qb2m.jpg http://i.imgur.com/WlWu8wF.jpg |
http://i.imgur.com/ucZ3hw6.jpgNew toy. For $300 w/ the anvils what's there to really lose.
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Incredibly impressive work! These folks can help with the body: http://www.hietbrink.com/. (Click on "models" on the left side of the home page to see some examples of their work, including a 275 GTB).
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I'm sure that you already have this planned for the future, but you should incorporate rubber bushings into the motor and transmission mounts to avoid transmitting vibration into the chassis rails.
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The engine mounts have 2" rubber doughnuts and the trans mount is a clamshell style mount with a rubber isolator. It's a bit hard to see in the photos. |
alternative GTB
Hi
Your comments on the rear wings of my 275 are fair, but it looks better with recent photos: http://www.madabout-kitcars.com/foru...t=5477&page=16 Good to be on holiday, but there's still a lot of finishing to be done. |
I'm back from a hiatus with a much needed update. Firewall and tunnel construction
https://i.imgur.com/CPPPwGb.jpg https://i.imgur.com/byQ26fq.jpg https://i.imgur.com/uxSaaNd.jpg Wire wheeled the floor pans while I was in there https://i.imgur.com/axYW3Wi.jpg https://i.imgur.com/SBU2u8q.jpg I made the tunnel area purposefully high to make the stabbing the engine in easier. https://i.imgur.com/GtcD4vd.jpg https://i.imgur.com/BzZtorN.jpg |
https://i.imgur.com/vjQWN6E.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/WZeFuQH.jpg https://i.imgur.com/GrBxSRU.jpg tight fit https://i.imgur.com/QzcIwt8.jpg https://i.imgur.com/WeciZLD.jpg https://i.imgur.com/JRdLsyx.jpg https://i.imgur.com/XbqeH8M.jpg https://i.imgur.com/0pP0gg8.jpg https://i.imgur.com/aFFwBLR.jpg To finish the firewall I'm still unsure if I want to seam weld and dress all the welds or just tack it every inch or so and neatly mask and seam seal. |
I have some progress on getting the car steering again and I finally started on the rear axle upgrade as well.
The steering column and wheel are from a saturn vue with power assist (obviously). It was really straight forward to fit up. I forgot to document how I did the mounting brackets but it was very simple. https://i.imgur.com/r2oRNiK.jpg https://i.imgur.com/78b96aO.jpg https://i.imgur.com/gV1QowQ.jpg https://i.imgur.com/PrmE0MK.jpg https://i.imgur.com/T9KRxpI.jpg https://i.imgur.com/cO4A4Sq.jpg https://i.imgur.com/nMDL6TP.jpg I was able to use the factory firewall grommit as luck would have it it |
https://i.imgur.com/cxMYruL.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/HPU5nSk.jpg https://i.imgur.com/szSq4u4.jpg The shaft already had a splined to 3/4"dd joint where it attached to the steering rack on the saturn. It was also the perfect length and that made it easy to connect to the stainless steering shaft material I purchased. I am going to anchor the section of steering shaft that runs parallel to the inside of the frame rail using a 3/4" heim joint. I will weld a threaded bung in the frame and the heim will thread in to that. It will also allow the steering shaft to be pushed off the frame rail a little bit as well. You can see there is some interference with the joint and the frame rail close to where it comes through the firewall. |
Next I have started on the rear axle. As I may have mentioned earlier it is out of a late 90s ford explorer. Disk brake 3.73 gears, 31 spline axles. It was originally 59.5" but by cutting down the driver's side axle tube and using another passenger axle I could make it 56.5" to match the front axle width.
https://i.imgur.com/JEzhT53.jpg https://i.imgur.com/nrsrLZn.jpg https://i.imgur.com/aQR2Efd.jpg no turning back now... https://i.imgur.com/JWEWHYI.jpg Using a little angle iron on either side allowed me to keep everything true while I tacked it up. I used a straight edge on the axle tube all the way around the circumference to double check as well. https://i.imgur.com/o8AMp0q.jpg https://i.imgur.com/ztjikMS.jpg https://i.imgur.com/xrX7gOI.jpg https://i.imgur.com/dGHAZIN.jpg Now I can move on to fitting it up in the car with adjustable link bars and brackets. |
https://i.imgur.com/aY4bLJU.jpg
Throwing this in here because I thought it was a neat photo. |
Great work as always
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Wow. Great work indeed.
It’s a bit like Project binky without the shite jokes (see YouTube for binky ) Dave |
Thanks Red and Dave,
I've got sucked into that binky show now! |
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I'm lovin' your beautiful welds. :cool:
Keep up the good work, Paul. :) |
Thank you Paul!
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I took the car to a friend's shop who does roll cages and traded him some welding work for this. *We bent and tacked some 1 *5/8" down bars to connect the A pillars to the frame rails. * It's surprising how much this changes the look of the car at it's current state. *Even though these bars will not likely be seen once the body is on I'm pleased with the design, clearance, and finished look. * It also gives me something to build the radiator and bumper*support from- I'm thinking I may make that removable so the engine is easier to remove and install later. *I will be finishing the welds on the down bars soon and will seal up and epoxy prime the front end, firewall and floors. *There's a little surface rust starting to develop, especially after transporting the car in this humidity, and I want to nip that*in the bud before it gets out of control. **
https://i.imgur.com/kna3o7F.jpg https://i.imgur.com/SdWB27w.jpg https://i.imgur.com/YSIz3EA.jpg https://i.imgur.com/Hch59UR.jpg |
Nice. :cool:
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A little update here, A lot has been going on for me but I have some progress to report. Doors have been cut down and roughly mocked up. I will need to build back the jams and door frames.
https://i.imgur.com/d0TkYcc.jpg https://i.imgur.com/dZnNji0.jpg https://i.imgur.com/Jp9u4Ao.jpg https://i.imgur.com/LyH733E.jpg https://i.imgur.com/bnXCy9d.jpg A friend scanned a scale model I have and is working on scaling and figuring out how to slice into 2d sections so I can build the buck from it. I have a few ideas how to translate the sections to wire, either using a projector, plotting it on paper, or CNC in cardboard or plywood. This part doesn't have to be pretty as long as it's accurate. The nose and tail sections will likely be CNC'd in foam to capture all the detail. https://i.imgur.com/Or4iraA.jpg https://i.imgur.com/jN5nHnx.jpg https://i.imgur.com/JoW11lF.jpg https://i.imgur.com/2d5UtQn.jpg I'm hoping the wire buck might turn out something like this https://i.imgur.com/E1VG5dx.jpg |
Fantastic update as usual. Loving this build
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Thank you JG!
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Wow... WOW... beautiful work!!
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https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/forum/ga...dy-buck-313330 Good luck, Paul. :) |
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