MX250 Bonnet help
 

Just installed the Mx250 Bonnet and I've managed to get good gapping all round and level, however when I open the bonnet it catches at the rear middle, what's the best way to rectify the issue ? I don't want to push the bonnet further down as this would leave big gaps at the top sides. Thanks

Gap is too tight and straight. You need to try and curve the line slightly by taking away material from the bonnet and building it up on the scuttle. I would remove the material from the rear of the bonnet first to get the clearance and then attempt to build it up again on the main panel to close the gap again.

Get some sand paper on it and start shaping.
Is this your first home built car???

It will get better

cheers. I'll take a look

Yes it's my first. The sanding I think will take away what looks ok when closed

Going to slightly lift the brackets on the body as I think they have some play that way when opening it should be higher....hopefully lol just to now make a small mound out of filler on each side that mounds with the kit

Hi Mark , Can you relieve (remove some material) from the centre edge of the bonnet ? I fiddled and filled for yonks to get mine fitting and in the end settled for a compromise.

You could look at getting some hinges that pivot further back onto the scuttle. When the bonnet is lifted it will rise away in a bigger arc and not touch, perhaps . You'll have to do some measuring.

I'm thinking this style as fitted to the old Morris Oxford and still readily available.

Looks to me like the gap should be consistent from hinge to hinge, so plenty you could take out there. But LLM's solution looks a good one, and would allow maximum flexibility on how much you want to remove.

Also take some material off like a chamfered edge , leaving the outside edge as it is but cutting back on the rear edge , so the bottom of the panel is further in ..does that make sense ?

https://image.ibb.co/i4fR38/chamfer.png

This will keep the visually best gap you can on the outside but remove the material that is fouling immediately as you lift the panel ....one problem with opening panels on fibreglass cars is they are often thicker than their steel or ally counterparts ..therefore a slightly different approach is required ...

I have just done the chamfer trick on Ray's Formosa as it wasn't fouling , but was very close and didn't want the extra paint thickness to change anything ...

You will probably end up fettling and gapping again at the end of the build just prior to paint ..so don't get too involved in a job that might need re-doing later ...

Good idea may also do this as like you say once there's added paint thickness it'll go back to hitting the top. Will do this and also lift the brackets slightly on the body (like little mounds moulded in)

fuel filler cap
 

Hi Mark, I saw on your thread that you did a great job on your fuel filler cap. Do you have any photographs or advice on how you achieved it? What parts did you use, etc.

Appreciate your help. Regards, Terry

Hi Terry. I just used the original fuel pipe but cut off the connection and smoothed out the tube so that the original fuel hose went from the new cap to the fuel pipe, I then just ordered extra tubing so it reached the tank. Attached some pics for you.

fuel filler cap
 

Cheers Mark, that helps me get my head around it! Thanks, Terry