This looks like an inexpensive and convenient resolution whilst any deficit is located.

Check whether or not a diode is fitted to the panel- cheap to buy and easy to fit if not.

Side indicators
 

Well, after being prompted by others off here, I found these for $95.00 even though they were shipped from Italy.http://i65.tinypic.com/2qmlm2p.jpg

Thanks for the prompts, I am very happy with these.

They are one of the finishing touches. The other one is the Lucas P700 headlights with the tribar on, I know they weren't fitted on the originals but any kits I see without them just look as if they are missing something.

Boys Toys & Shiny Bits
 

One of the style features I liked from the various marques, is the dual filler caps on the Astons. A little bit of an extravagance, but worth it I think. Obviously the nearside one doesn't have to function, and the offside one is lockable, and has the through funnel.

Now I have to get the boring gubbins on the underside, based on JagTVRs work. On the Astons, the filler caps are slightly further back than on the 250 SWBs so not sure if that will have an impact. I'll have to discuss with Chris.

http://i66.tinypic.com/2u3y7n9.jpg

These are Mocal ones from Burton Power, £258 for the pair.

Wheels and tyres next most likely, as Chris needs them for when the panel work commences after Christmas. I should be getting the dashboard to be fitting during December.

All the advise about getting the donor in good time is well given. On Saturday morning, after a heavy night's rain, and light drizzle on the way to meet up with an old schoolpal, I discovered a very soggy floor mat on the driver side. I should have guessed something was amiss when the seller threw in a very nice car cover when I bought the car.

It looks like it is the windshield cowl, there is a 2mm gap at the centre for a stretch of several inches. In searching for remedies, came across Captain Tolleys Creeping Crack Cure, which caused much hilarity amongst friends and family.

I don't think I will have to take the cowl off, one posting says you can use a putty knife to get under the cowl and insert the nozzle of a non silicone sealant. Whilst I wait for samples of both that and the Captains remedy (I couldn't resist) to arrive, - black gaffer tape to the rescue. I am not proud.

Very nice Barber. I like those fillers good choice! Sorry to hear about the water leak, but better you know now than later in the piece when it can do more damage. Fingers crossed for what you find under the carpet...Hopefully not a long term issue.

The repros I am looking at (Stafford) are the same price with or without the tribar, so no reason not to really.

Captain Tolleys Creeping Crack Cure
 

"Captain Tolleys Creeping Crack Cure"
You really do have no shame, shouldn't this have been posted on another forum?

If you have a look at my build, the positioning of the fuel filler was decided by trying to get it as high in the wheel arch as possible. If you remember the pictures of Smash's filler, it was badly crimped and would take ages to fill the tank.
Mine still requires you to fill at half speed but makes a big difference, I had to cut into the shell but bent the cut metal rather than remove it.
Don't use the fluted flexible fuel pipe, use the straight type as the fuel flows through it much quicker. The pipe sits above the inner wheel arch plastic so it is protected from road debris.

Will use the marine pipe that you flagged.

If you move the filler caps further back, the fuel pipe will have ti rise over the wheel arch meaning you will get a much slower fill time and there will always be fuel sloshing around in the rear low end of the pipe. would be much better to fit it at the highest point to help with fuel flow.

As the car is not intended to be a replica of a particular model, so e practical features can be taken on board. This will probably be one of them.

Barber - Love the filler caps. :cool:

Plus I like the idea of fitting an extra dummy one to throw people of the scent.

+1 to hoping there isn't any other water damage to worry about.

Good luck, Paul. :)

PaulL: No signs of water damage under the carpets, and the gaffer tape is doing its job for the time being. As it is not too cold today, I may try and get the sealant installed.

I had a good thrash up and down the M4 over the past couple of days. On the way back, the warning triangle light started flashing intermittently, then came on together with the brake warning light. Is this something i can sort myself or should I have an independent repairer look at?

Maintenance is on the last green, roughly how many miles before the Service 2 is required?

The brake warning light probably just means your brake pads have worn down to the wear indicator. Quite easy to check depth of pads visually and changing pads is a fairly straight forward job. I think the warning triangle is just to attract your attention to a fault or warning.
New pads should sort it but worth checking the condition of the disks as they are fairly inexpensive parts.

If your planning on keeping the car then a Bentley Publishers workshop manual is a great investment.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/BMW-Z3-Serv.../dp/0837616174

+1 on the pads just being worn down, check the fronts first as they wear much more quickly than the rears. Worn pads shouldn't light up the warning triangle. I find that mine lights up quite regularly this time of the year, it's just the wheels spinning on slippery roads, I find it happens much more now that I have higher profile tyres.

Don't worry too much about the service lights, but if you haven't already done it, change the oil. First thing to always do on a new car. The previous owner probably won't have done it it prior to selling and if he has probably has used a cheaper oil.
I always change my oil annually, I don't do great mileages but tend to change the oil at every MOT so I remember when it is done. Everything else I tend to leave until a warning light comes on or it breaks apart from checking the water level.

Worth getting a "Diagnostic Tool for BMW OBD2 Car Airbag Scan/Oil Service/Inspection Light Reset" currently £6.99 on eBay.

I have a few OBD scan devices but haven't had much luck on my 1999 car. Lots of communication errors. They do show up issues though and enable easy erasure of the fault codes.

I have the full OPCOM setup on a laptop for my Vauxhall but haven't got the BMW software yet.

Diagnostic Tool for BMW OBD2 Car Airbag Scan/Oil Service/Inspection Light Reset"

Check the connecter under the bonnet!

Mine doesn't have the standard ODB rectangular connection. It has a BMW specific 9 (?) pin round connector.

Funnily enough my brake warning light started flickering on yesterday but it went out when I pressed the brake pedal. I put it down to needing a brake fluid change so will be checking that this weekend.

Easier said than done.
My facelift has a plug under the dash which the reader connects to without any problem. However for the ABS you have to use the old style round plug under the bonnet, and it won't connect. I have access to a proper reader and still no good. The answer is here

http://techiesexpedition.blogspot.co...-2-liters.html

It seems the facelift cars are inbetween the two types of diagnostic.

I've still got my oil light coming on from time to time. I changed the oil and filter which sorted it for a short time but its coming on again now. Usually after driving it hard for a few miles it will come on. If I stop the car and turn the ignition off and restart, the light won't come on again for the rest of the trip ! I've always been happier with an oil pressure gauge than a light, preferably a mechanical gauge too !

Well worth replacing the sender unit.