Thanks Jaguartvr and Ian. Coming back from the tyre shop today, it was the first time I really enjoyed driving the car :icon_lol:

Big improvement with the tyres, changes the proportions for the better.

Shame the original tyre shop didn't allow you to trial fit a couple of options to see what would work best.

I bought them online a year or more ago, so I couldn't have returned them. I won't be doing that again.

Did you end up fitting extra wheel spacers on the rear axle, the wheels are sitting just right in the arches.

No, just fitted straight onto the MWS hub adapters. Happy days!

Chris thanks for the pic and diagram I am in your debt for that blooming useful info. I am going to either fit BB seats or even a set of MGTF I have waiting. I expect the effort on the runners is similar.

The new tyres set it right off. I like how the arches are filled. I went with std size diameter wheels on mine and it needs lowering somewhat to get the stance just so. Doesn’t make it particularly good over Reading roads though :(

Thanks again. Yours is looking sweeeeet.

Dave

The rear window was extremely cloudy, I couldn't see through it through the rear view mirror. I bought a replacement window off ebay. When attempting to unzip and replace the rear window, the zip thread fell to pieces.

https://www.cata4data.com/img/cobra/...626_191717.jpg

Also, the top of the roof had quite bit of wear and tear, and the lining was in poor condition. GaryR's roof was up for grabs from CC, so I met Belle and purchased his hood. Not a pleasent job with fresh paint, but it was well worth it.

I now have a brand new rear window for sale. I will put it on ebay, but if anyone on here wants it, let me know.

https://www.cata4data.com/img/cobra/...630_173011.jpg

Gave the soft top a clean with Renovo and buffed the window with PlastX, and it looks fab.

https://www.cata4data.com/img/cobra/...630_173101.jpg

That looks better on yours than it ever did on mine! :biggrin:

Dud, that is sweet! Seriously awesome. Love the wheel tyre combo. Congrats.

It has been a couple of weeks since the last update. I took the plunge and started on the interior, including the dash.

I removed the stock dash, stripped it down (air bag panel, instrument cluster moulding, vents from the underside, etc.). Then inserted some MDF into the gaps, filled with fibre glass and body filler. I use some cable conduit for a round lip. It will all be covered with blue/white stitched faux leather once fitted.

https://www.cata4data.com/img/cobra/...708_121645.jpg

I also reduced the outer rollover hoop posts, to make them level. Their only purpose (being that high) is to provide a seat belt anchor, but I now have 4-point harness, so they have been removed. The back is now flat (it has always bugged me!).

Since I am going for a classic/vintage look, I removed a lot of plastic and made up some 'washboards'. The centre compartment opens (as before). I had a set of new rollover bars manufactured, as I needed the ends the same length (a perfect up-side-down 'U').

https://www.cata4data.com/img/cobra/...708_191439.jpg

The new bars are a lot stronger. Stainless steel and 2.5mm, compared to the ebay 1.5mm.

https://www.cata4data.com/img/cobra/...717_184046.jpg

I got them from Tom Wood at www.tube-bender.co.uk, £120 delivered. PM if you want the technical drawing.

https://www.cata4data.com/img/cobra/...5328_Bokeh.jpg

Removed the centre console, fitted a handbrake gaiter (CBS). Spent quite a bit of time lowering the automatic gear shifter and working out how to link P-R-N-D to dash LEDs (now sorted).

https://www.cata4data.com/img/cobra/...712_151555.jpg

I have purchased several aftermarket gauges; a GPS speedometer, a tachometer, ampmeter, voltmeter, fuel gauge and water temp gauge. I managed hack the stock instrument cluster to tap into the fuel, tacho and water temp (after quite a bit of trial and error!). Basically, I used the existing Z3 pots (fuel and water temp), and put them inside of the cheap 52mm gauges from ebay. They work perfectly.

All original instrument warning lights from the Z3 cluster are now re-wired to Lucas warning lights. Quite happy with this, as I haven't lost any functionality (lights/gauges, etc.) from the original setup. The stock cluster has lost 'a little weight' and will sit behind the Kobra dash.

This is what the Z3 cluster looks like after several nights of soldering. It has since been sealed, to avoid any accidental damage.

https://www.cata4data.com/img/cobra/...111928__01.jpg

I finished re-wiring the dash this evening. That's removing all BMW switches, instruments, lights, etc ... and wiring them up to the aftermarket setup. It is now ready for the new dash. I will start that tomorrow. The design is below.

https://www.cata4data.com/img/cobra/...yout%20002.png

Blimey. Great work going on here

Dave :)

Cheer Dave. Hopefully the leccy prep will pay dividends, once the dash is in, suppose time will tell. Watch this space ;)

I was about to comment how the dash seems amazingly cool but that you might have issues with the removal of the instrument cluster as electronics these days are interconnected, but... I had to eat my words once I lifted my jaw from the floor.
Amazing work rewiring and rerouting everything from the BMW cluster to proper instruments, its something I would never dare attempt myself..

PS, just so I can feel better about myself: Maybe blue and white wouldn't be ideal on the top 'shelf' of the new dashboard due to reflections in the windscreen?

PS2. Nope that didn't work. Still feel inadequate :P

Very interesting approach which is, after sleeping on it, very logical.

What are doing about the lcd display for mileage / service intervals etc ?

Dave

Cheers Piguin.

Hooking into the original cluster is very easy, once I worked out a few things.

1. Figure out which lights actually work and their purpose, as they differ from model to model, country to country.
2. There are 2 wires (that need to be soldered) for each light on cluster, unusually, these are not always positive and negative. But sometimes a supply and return switched positive (like a loop). Hence why I chose to solder 2 wires per light.
3. The fuel gauge (left) and water temp gauge (right) are just three wires, once you remove the pots and insert them inside their new 52mm gauge. Then just run wires between the cluster and the new gauge. Simples.
4. The aftermarket tacho gets its input signal from the white EWS module, just to above/to the right of the steering column behind the dash. Specifically, black wire, pin 4.

If I were to do this again, based on what I know now, I probably would connect the existing speedo too (4 pins, left of the centre chip, see post 154), instead of using a GPS gauge. Either way, it would probably take a total of 3-4 hours to convert the cluster (all gauges plus lights).

https://www.cata4data.com/img/cobra/...715_083704.jpg