Breakes
 

Hi there have just taken over the build of a 5exi and have read with intrest all the info on this site. All of the info has helped a great deal and I have avoided several promlems thank to all your experiance. At the moment I am thinking about breaks I have some doner hub and am looking for a little advice as which disks I should be looking for. I am looking at a 1.6 or 1.4 rover k engine so do not plan on anything to mad any help would be great
Thanks Mike

Mike

If you have read the posts you know that the standard Rover 200 rear set-up and hand brake are just in spec. for the MoT with the weight of the chassis when built. Unless you spend a lot of time getting the cable routing right and the callipers overhauled even as JohnI found new callipers are still marginal.
Review the posts from JohnI and myself to see the technical debate and pics on the rear brakes.:flame:

The engine size and power is not a deciding factor for brakes the finished weight is what makes the difference.:bored:

If you still have to buy the bits go for the 280mm disks and callipers to match from a ZR and then you are well inside the test margins and its a straight fit no modification to the standard assembly.:icon_smile:

Also remember that the hub fitted to the rear (that was the front of the doner) will need the 54.6mm centre machined down to 54mm to allow the rear disks to fit. :whip:

If you don't understand that bit let us know and we can assist.
You can machine the rear disks centre out, but first change/refresh and the new one will not fit either unless machined before fitting as well, easier to do the hub at the start.

Hope this helps.....

Dave at TrackDevelopments can support you machining needs and mods if needed.


JohnC

Hi Mike.

Welcome to the forum.

Depending what revision of the kit you have got, will dictate what type of Rover brake set up you can have. Can you post up a picture of your rear hubs?

Your not too far from a few of us on here. So if you fancy a meet up, let us know. Being camera. Might help you out.

Mike is close by you with a 1.6k.

Here is a map.
http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UT...mid=1324893703

My 2p:

- Rover 200 stock 260mm front / 240mm rear with Rover master cylinder is a terrible solution.
- Rover 200 weight distribution is at best 60/40 front rear, the marlin with a k-series is probably more like 45/55 front rear.
- Rover stock setup results in extended braking distances as you can't exploit the grip available at the rear. You will lock the fronts up regularly.
- Rover 260mm front, with ZR-160 / ZS-180 260mm rear discs and calipers is a better bet if your hubs can accomodate the calipers.
- 260 front and rear with a stock master cylinder still has far too much front bias...... you will keep locking the fronts, just a little less frequently.
- If going for stock calipers you're best bet is a dual master and to junk the rover servo / master. You don't need a servo on a 700kg car.

- I'm presently fitting 280 mm vented front and rear, as the 260mm front & rear were still too compromised for my liking, but road use 260mm front and rear will be fine. In fact for road use, I'd try and fit the smallest Rover front discs you can, and the biggest rears you can.

- Have a look at Elises / VX220s / MR2s / Boxsters / Caymans and you'll see the significantly different disc / caliper bias they have compared to all FWD cars.

Mike

Welcome to the forum, I built the 1600K and based on my experience it was a good choice, the tests done on the early models suggested the 1600 useing 15 inch wheels was a good choice. I found the engine good and free reving with both bore and stroke very well matched, so if you can get that engine I would consider it.

I did later update to the 1800 VVC but kept the R65 gear box so had little change to the other running gear such as drive shafts etc, you may not get the higher speeds that could be obtained from useing the PG1 gearbox but had good accelartion.

I have not commented on the brakes as John and John have covered that off.

Best of luck with the build, I am sure people who have already built the model you have will be happy to offer help.

Steve

Thanks so much for the advice that has been put forward .I will be sorting this out shortly and I am sure will be back on looking for other help

Mike