The compensating valve plastic cover is distorted on both my carbs and i don't seem to be able to source replacement. Is anybody running an engine with distorted cover and does it affect the performance etc.

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The cover is circled red in the left hand image, its a yellow colour plastic which does not sit squarely on the ally valve body when screwed down. If you look closely at the right hand image you can see the plastic cover sitting off the ally face, the carb in the back ground also shows the compensating valve cover not sitting flat.

A good source for information on these carbs is here http://zenithcarb.co.uk/technical/

They also sell the service and overhaul kits, very reasonable too which is what i like.

Good exploded views here http://www.marineengine.com/parts/te...ra_18-7085.pdf

To buy the correct overhaul kit you need to determine the correct type/model of carb is it a 150 CD or CDSE, this info is stamped on the metal tag attached to the carb top but alas my carbs are missing this vital piece of info so i have done a little research and found a good description between a CD and CDSE at https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/...ns/topics/7790

This guy says the CD carb does not have the "By pass valve - Throttle" item 15 on the diagram, if the By pass valve is fitted then its a CDSE carb also the "Valve Assy - Starting" is fitted to 1 CD carb and both carbs on the CDSE twin carb set up.

I found this on tunning the CD carbs http://p38arover.com/misc_files/Tuni...g_CD_Carbs.pdf

Hope this helps and makes life a little easier.

Can youget carb cleaner in a bottle or container?

I've only seen aerosols, Tool Station has 400ml for about £2.68.

It evaporates very quickly so if poured into a container it will be gone in no time at all, plus the aerosol blasts the crud off.

Zenith carbs
 

Hi Swifty ,you can get the spares from Gower and Lee ,also Burlen fuel Systems ,I have used both recently for my 175 cd's , both places are very helpful.

Thanks slickshod, i spoke to Andrew Turner of Turner Carbs today who was also very helpful in confirming the spec of carbs i have plus his rebuild kit is the cheapest i can find for the genuine article, so will be placing an order with him.

Also for reference after talking to Andrew the plastic compensating valve cover does not have to seal tightly against the body but he did say you can buy new ones for about £6 each.

Today the chassis arrived back after being shot blasted and etch primed along with the suspension parts etc. The overall condition is excellent with no holes or repair work being done in the past so i am very pleased with how it has turned out.

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Also today made a spacer block to go between the rear leaf spring and diff, this will lower the back end and straighten the wheels up (less negative camber) plus if the front end is lowered the block helps to balance the car's level.

Here's a couple of pictures of the block which is machined out of ally.

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Machined to a height of 19.05mm or 3/4 inch, i can always reduce this height if the car is to low.

I'm worried about that .05mm...

Its the engineer in me i can't get away from it.:laugh:

Today i finally got the chassis sprayed along with all the suspension parts, the new compressor just managed to keep up so i may have to have a re-think before i spray the body.

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Photo of the chassis in etch primer.

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Chassis sprayed in graphite grey and some parts of the suspension have been sprayed in Rosso red, should be a good combination i think. Now i have to work out what's required to re assemble the suspension, brakes and drive train.

Your chassis is looking very nice. :cool:

you did well on the chassis as did I, others have had to have a patch fest!
In a roller by tomorrow then......

Great colour and an inspiring build.

This is quickly becoming one of my favorite threads... great work

Paint on the chassis now dry but i think i will give the whole chassis another coat.

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Some of the suspension parts laid on top of the chassis to see how the colours look.



My latest flee bay purchase arrived today, a clutch friction plate for a TR7. The original friction plate is 203mm dia with 10 splines where as the TR7 is 216mm dia with 23 splines which fits the type 9 gearbox perfect and just fits the pressure plate with a few millimeters to spare before it catches the riverts.

Attachment 1267

You can see the difference in the splines of the original against the TR7 friction plate.

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The left hand image shows just how close the edge of the plate is in relation to the pressure plate rivet tops. Friction plate in position on the type 9 gearbox input shaft splines.

Nice work Swifty, great color sceme too

Thanks Mike

Today the electronic distributor arrived and all looks ok, fitted to the engine to make sure it fits correctly etc.

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Also managed to finish the steering rack solid mounts made from ally, they are slightly heavier than the ones you can buy online, i think they should be ok in relation to clearance for the engine but if not i can always machine to size.

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The red circle indicates were the 3.6mm dia x 2mm blind hole is for the nylon locating peg in the steering rack, only one bracket requires this, the other end of the steering rack has a knurled ring around the tube which grips the bracket surface.


Trial fitted to the chassis with the steering rack (before it has an overhaul) and it looks spot on, measured the sump and i have about 15mm clearance on the sides.

Well that's it for now, i have a few more bits to make, see you all soon.

Swifty, are you able to make parts for others?

Hi Garyh

Pm me.