I'm thinking of finishing my Formosa in the same way. Whilst much of the TR was bare aluminium a fair bit was painted but you wouldn't know. I found some paint that was an exact match looking like rough ali !

250tr
 

Excellent will be interesting to see

No disrespect to the builder but the lies in this advert are unbelivable and clearly in breach of the website.

Example text from the advert......

Description and History

The Ferrari offered here is an exact reproduction of a 250 TR with Scaglietti body. The Italian firm Giordanengo; with nearly 30 years of experience, has a reputation of being one of the best in the world in building Ferrari recreations. To build this car, the brilliant craftsmen of Giordanengo handcrafted an alloy body around a tubular steel chassis. Every effort was made to meet the proper specifications, so that the rebuild was virtually indistinguishable. of the authentic. This replica, owned by an English industrialist, is not finished. Indeed, the latter had done step by step the reconstruction of this replica but could not carry out his project following a fatal illness.

I think the dealer is the third owner since I sold it. The story has changed or been embellished and some of the facts have changed along the way. Apparently I am writing this from the grave !

Hi, can you please let me know more about the drape moulding technique for the headlamp covers and windscreen? Any advice would be appreciated. Kevin
👍

Anyone who wants to know more about what happened to the original Ferrari chassis that was under the 250 TR before the body was cut up and removed needs to watch this video. From about 12.30 in, all is explained !

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8aouiOxqcdA

Also the story of chassis 0611GT with before and after details

https://www.forza-mag.com/issues/179...a-with-a-twist

It is quite a simple process. You need to make a male mould of the shape you want to make, I made mine from wood with a skim of body filler over the top. The surface finish needs to be smooth and blemish free.
Make a wooden frame a couple of inches bigger than the mould to hold the plastic sheet. The plastic sheet can be screwed to the frame with self tappers every couple of inches.
Heat in your oven at around 160c until you can see the plastic start to sag then quickly take it out and press it firmly over your mould.
Hold it down long enough until it begins to cool and it will hold the shape.
I used 3mm perspex but you also use polycarbonate.
There is an element of trial and error but its quite easy to do.

I also cover the mould surface with felt fabric to prevent scratching the polycarbonate which is softer than the perspex. 160C is a great temperature for both.

I heard that Donald Trump owned it but the Democrats stole it from him. Like seriously, Dude, it's true and sh*t. I read it on Twitter. Rise up! RISE UP!

Thank you for this. It’s really very helpful. Kevin

Looks like a great project. The Locost chassis wasn't modified, the track and wheel base were correct. The driving position was very short but that was due to tiny cockpit area governed by the body shape. If designing from scratch you might want to increase the space inside a little. No wheel spacers fitted but the hub adaptors do increase the track a little. Luckily on my car it all fell into position.

Thank you for your response. I will keep you updated.👍

Kevin, why Styrofoam?
Urethane foam is much easier to work and compatible with polyester resins.

Thank you for this suggestion. What coating do you have to use before applying polyurethane resins?

Thank you for the suggestion. What coating do you have to use before applying polyurethane resin and matting etc?

that would depend upon if you intend to make a mould or simply a male one-off body which will require a lot of post-finishing.
If making a mould, a very fine finish is needed. Should you make your body buck and use it as a final product, it will be much more labor intensive to finish. Send me a PM for a more detailed and lengthy explanation.

https://rqriley.com/fiberglass-over-foam/
Robert Q. Riley describes using polyurethane foam - which has a very fine grain and is not melted by standard polyester fibreglass resin. Polyurethane foam used to be readily available in insulation supply companies - I'm not sure if it still is.
Polystyrene foam is much more coarse and doesn't cut or sand in the same way. You can use a different, more expensive fibreglass resin (epoxy) to avoid melting polystyrene.

Should you choose to use polystyrene foam, the extra expense of epoxy resins may be avoided by (after shaping) coating the plug with latex house paint, several coats. Them applying mould release wax and PVA
to the surface. This prevents polyester resins from attacking the styrene
foam. PITA to remove the polystyrene foam should some stick to the part (some will). Easily removed with acetone in a squirt bottle. The acetone will dissolve the foam quickly. Recently did this on three complicated fiberglass parts. PITA in all.

Just use polyisocyanurate board (trade call it PIR) Cellotex or similar - just peel off the foil off one side and paper off t'other (it really stinks when you do it!)
Works well with polyester resin. Also builders 'squirty foam' is useful and can be used to fill gaps or join boards.