Just to echo Mr T…

I tended to start my major repairs with fibreglass matting, before switching to fibreglass body filler and then finally finishing off with ‘normal’ lightweight body filler.

A top tip that Viatron/Mac gave me was to start the first round of rough sanding as soon as the filler was hard enough to take it, but before the filler had set completely rock solid.

Whilst this wasn’t always possible, it did reduce both the time and effort required for sanding.

Good luck, Paul. :)

PS
I know it isn’t 100% complete yet, but your bodyshell extension now looks like it has always been there. :cool:

Thanks for the replies.

I have (only) just realised that the bonnet is sitting on the air filetr!

https://i.postimg.cc/3JdWcCj4/file-9.jpg

The current filter assembly is 150mm and I need to loose about 10mm to clear the bonnet.

I have seen on another thread how somebody 'modified' the edge of the filter housing with a hammer. But wondering whether I can go for another filter shape (eg tapered) but dont know how to get it to fit snuggly to the face on my Stromberg. Maybe I will have to make something - could be fibreglass?

Anyone got any other ideas? I have spent many hours of google (stromberg remote air filter) but can's see that there is anything out there?

A "Z" shaped air inlet manifold?

Well, solved that problem by cutting another hole in the back of the filter plate so the whole unit sits (off centre) 25mm lower.

Another question, I need something to switch my colling fan on/off and am wondering whether anyone has used one of these - https://media.rs-online.com/t_large/R0331578-01.jpg.

Thinking of glueing it to the front of the thermostat housing.

The only other option (cant find a T-piece to allow me to fit another sender into the single thermostat housing threaded hole anywhere) is to fit a hetal section with a threaded hole into the radiator top hose. But I haven't really got room!

Have you looked at one of these?
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F151054632193
I've used one before and it worked very well.

Lots of progress over the past few months.

Wiring is just about complete and ready for final testing. I have used Superseal connectors for the front and rear lights with a fuse/relay panel under the dash which brings together all of the wiring. I decided to purchase an electronic fan controller for the the princely sum of £2.46 have seen very positive reviews on a triumph forum.

The cockpit is just about boxed-in now and the dash is looking how I want it to be. I have decided to stick with the 2 x Herald gauges as the cost of getting them reconditioned is about the same as a new set of after market ones.

https://i.postimg.cc/Y0zV9tB7/file2.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/SKHH1ZfB/file.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/2jQgT7bt/file1.jpg

My plan is to get all the mechanical and electrical elements 'set to work' over the next few weeks and then put the car through an MOT so that I can take it on the road in an unpainted condition. Found a local bodyshop guy who has offered to take the rough body, fair/finish and paint for £1000!!!! I know this guy has a number of part-time jobs but have first-hand experience of his work.

Thats all for now.

Chris

Chris - Lots of good progress there. :cool:

I think re-using the old Herald gauges will help the car look old.

Great to hear you are working your way towards the first MOT. :eek:

As you know, I am a firm believer in running the car without paint.

It certainly gives you a morale boost, which helps in the final prep for paint.

Good luck, Paul. :)

I have now reached the stage where it is all together and working.

https://i.postimg.cc/8csyqDNy/IMG-1424.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/gkn57y0Y/IMG-1425.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/Twt77hML/IMG-1423.jpg

Just got to:
a) Fix number plates
b) Sort out bonnet fit

As regards bonnet, the image below shows that the off-side of the bonnet sits a bit high. I gentle push gets it into place and I am thinking that bonnet straps will do the trick. Or should I do another cut down the middle of the bonner and see if I can stich it back into a better shape?

https://i.postimg.cc/dQWpnNwH/IMG-1428.jpg

What would be your advice?

I used bonnet pins on top to pull the bonnet down and level it, worked a treat.

Good to see another spyder nearing completion, btw :)

Chris – You must be very happy to have reached this stage. :cool:

One thing to note about leather straps is that there will always be a bit of ‘give’.

This is because you need a bit of slack in order to actually do the buckle up.

In my case, this slack allowed the bonnet to bounce up and down while driving along.

Whilst this was only a few mm, I ended up putting in some extra bonnet locks for my own piece of mind.

Good luck, Paul. :)

PS
Obviously, I’m a fan of the twin hump style. :D

My 13/60 engine seems to have developed a bit of a misfire. It only occurs when the engine is warm/hot and I rev the engine. My first thought was an electronic ignition problem but I have replaced the distributor, redone the timing and the misfire persists.

So I have checked valve clearances (they were all too tight) and done a compression test. I am getting between 105psi and 115psi across the 4 cylinders which seems quite low to me. I was expecting 150psi. Putting a bit of oil in the cylinder seems to make very little difference. So I have either got a consistent valve leakage problem on all 4 cylinders (seems unlikely?) or my compression gauge is reading low.

What do you guys think?

you should have 140 psi or taking wear and tear into account say 130 psi so there is something wrong, valves, head gasket, or even the battery losing power as you work your way through the cylinders?

Thanks deggsy, thing is that I am getting the 105 to 115 psi with a fully charged battery and all the plugs out. What I cant get my head around is that all four cylinders are down - wouldnt valve/head gasket damage be unlikely to give such a consistent result?

Well it is possible valve wear could give such results, could also be worn rings and or bores but you did the oil test so that should eliminate that. The pressure test should be done with the engine warm and the throttle wide open, there should not be more than 5 psi difference. You could try a leak test on the head, Take the head off place upside down and level on bench pour petrol into valve chambers if the petrol leaks out the valves aren't sealing properly.

I'd have the head off and check for:

Incorrect, dished pistons fitted reducing the compression ratio (already low at 8.5:1 on a 13/60).

New valves fitted 'out of the box' at some stage and never lapped in.

Thicker than standard head gasket.

A bit more work needed but if there's still nothing obvious:

Check the cam timing is correct - I managed to get my six-pot to start and run (very badly) with the cam 180 degrees out, and a very small error can leave the inlet valve open for too long during the compression stroke.

Check if all the piston rings are present - the SCCA Spitfire Competition Preparation Manual recommends not fitting the lower oil rings on a racing engine for more power at the expense of engine longevity.

You could also try a different compression tester or try yours on a known 'good' engine to see if it reads low.

Good luck!

Thanks everyone for your contributions.

Back out on the car this afternoon - first chance since the Christmas break.

Conscious that my compression and misfire problems are unlikely to be connected, and before purchasing any new components, I decided to replace the female connectors on the end of the wires that go to the coil. Defintely 'clutching at straws'!!

Ran the engine and the same misfire started occuring. But then I suddenly noticed a spark refelcted in the shiny vacuum unit which is attached to the distributor. First guess was that I have a crack in the distributor cap but, given I didnt have a spare to hand, I decided to elimenate the Dysnamo first. Unplugged the two female connectors from the Dynamo, ran the engine and misfire has disappeared. Engine sounds sweet under both low and high revs - albeit I am just running under no load in the garage.

I had given the Dynamo a full test before putting it onto the engine a few months ago. So my first thought is that there must be something wrong with the wiring or the Control Box. But can anyone suggest how the Dynamo could be the root cause for a misfire under load? Could this be the cause of the weak spark leading to the "eight stroking" suggested earlier?

Unusual but I have been told it can happen. The dynamo- control box setup can throw up some strange faults, you could try it with another dynamo and or control box. personally I would get rid of them and install an alternator not difficult to wire in google it (dynamo to alternator conversion) you will need a alternator, bracket and fan belt for a 1500 engine. much better and more reliable.

Lots of progress over the lock-down period. Bodywork is generally of the right sort of shape now and I am starting to think of getting an MOT. Plan then is to drive it for a bit and see what needs sorting before commiting to paint.

Couple of questions for for all of you who finished long ago.

a) Cant tax the car until I have an MOT unless I apply for a vehicle of historical interest. Would prefer to go through the MOT. Am I right in thinking that I am allowed to drive (insurance but no tax and on SORN) round the corner to an MOT appointment?

b) The donor just had its serial number stamped onto a plate which was riveted to the bulkhead. I think IVA requires it be be stamped/engraved onto the chassis. Is the riveted plate ok for a Sammio.

Thanks

Hi CBJ, some answers for you:

a) Yes - so long as you have an MOT appointment nearby and are insured to drive the car you can drive to the testing station.

b) Yes - manufacturer's commission plate is fine for a rebody as the donor car never had a chassis number stamped or etched into the chassis in the first place.

Look forward to seeing some pictures...

Thanks Mister Towed.

Your posts have been a massive help right from the start and I still look-up to see how you did Sammio things. Everytime I use bonding paste I think of one of your earliest posts where you forgot to add any catalyst and smile to myself.

Whilst prepping for an MOT, I spent ages trying to work out how to fit blanking plugs to the greasse nipple holes on my UJs. Problem was that the holes seemed so much smaller than the threaded blanking plugs sold by Rimmers. Spent time researching Saturday afternoon and evening but couldnt work it out. 4am Sunday morning I had a thought, maybe I was looking at the allen key socket in the end of the grub screws that I fitted to the holes 2+ years ago!

Like your new project and that MG Midget looks the business.