Nice toy. I could do with something like that to fabricate exhaust sections. Expensive?

I've been looking for awhile T, this one is on Amazon and only £69 delivered...

Paul, i have to make the internal framing around the cockpit and where the cubby hole will be like has done. Also need to make bulkhead/gearbox tunnel etc... then work out a way to join body to frame.

Nice price, will take a look on Amazon. :)

Gary, your car looks terrific! Wish my chassis looked that clean!

Reference that "pipe bender"you have, I was given a slightly bigger one by a friend when I was trying to bend stainless pipes in order to make my bumpers, and I just could not get on with it.
I took a load of pictures and posted them on my thread somewhere.

For me it was a big F for failure, as it did not so much bend the pipes but just flatten them, and I could not get it to make a curve.

I even filled the pipe with sand, welded up one end and screwed the other endcap up tight to put the sand under compression, and it still flattened it.

Do let me know how you get on with it, and I hope you have more success than I did.

A pipe bender like this is probably only useful bending thick wall pipe like heating pipes.
Siainless thinwall needs a mandrel bender wit a centre roller thats is pulled around the outside with the pipe rolled around the die like this one:
http://www.southern-tool.com/store/b...050-bender.php

Reneanglia is correct if bending any thin walled tube then a steady feed through the mandrels is required, here's a good vid https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qqsrsMyBP90 or you can use a manual type as reneanglia link shows.

A good cheap alternative is the type electricians use to bend conduit which is what i used to fabricate the rear wheel arch supports and can be picked up on flee bay for less than £50, you can even bend square tube if you are careful enough with the round mandrels.

Yes Swifty, Rene is right about mandrels, I went deep into this after my failure with the pipe crusher, in the end, I found stainless pipe with the bend already made, and cut my bumpers from that.
Please tell me more about this electricians bending kit, will it bend 1.5 inch or 2 inch pipe?

If i am right and the bender Swifty has mentioned is the same as i think 1inch would be the limit.
It is a simple handbender.
https://www.google.nl/search?q=elect...ed=0CAYQ_AUoAQ

It will be fine for what I want to bend, 25.4mmx1.5mm I.D

What you really need is one of these -

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...psdnzzllea.jpg

Sorted, a robot it is...

I want to get some anti weld splatter spray, anything recommended?

If you are buying anti splatter spray then be careful because some sprays contain dichloromethane which is carcinogenic, the can will have this info displayed and from what i can remember at a COSHH meeting many years ago it only takes a small amount to cause irritation, there has been cases where welders have died through exposure.

Just thought i would give you the heads up as the last place i worked would not allow anti splatter to be used if dichloromethane was part of the ingredients the thing is it's good at preventing splatter sticking and the sprays available without dichloromethane were not as good but this was some years ago so technology has probably moved on now.

Happy welding matey.

http://intercon1978.com/jokisch-flui...le-dip-liquid/
This is what we use at work,all work i do must be according ISO 900...and this spray is one of the sprays we are allowed to use.
As i am a pro-welder(mig-tig)i am required to use approved materials.
I must say i almost never use spray because the welders we use are mig-puls machines so the spatter is almost nothing.

thank you very much for the professional advice, I will see what's available.

Welded in the floorpans now... just don't tell 8valve or Rene. I've done my best, and it is on 1mm thick.

http://i1076.photobucket.com/albums/...e/IMG_0185.jpg

Good enough,they would'nt fall out..........
If your ass is getting hot while driving check the welds.........

Thanks Rene, short bursts... but takes a long time.

If you stick to about 15mm mild steel tube you can get excellent results from a hole in a bit of 3x3 hard wood, flared slightly on the face. Tube goes in hole, bend a tiny bit, move out of wood a bit, bend again, etc. I did the body frame for this 1927 Chevy Stovebolt Special this way.
http://i461.photobucket.com/albums/q...psyrk5il9e.jpg

And yes that is masking tape holding all the joints together, waiting for the welder to do his magic.

Cheers,
Martin

Clever stuff...

Gary - Great to see your floors coming together. :cool:

Good luck doing the other side, Paul. :)

I'm watching... Looks good to me! LOL

I like the beads, am planning to make a bead roller myself but the cost of the rolls has put me off. I have most of the metal and bits, even a variable speed reversible motor. Just wish I still had my own lathe...

Evening 8, the motor is the way to go... Turning the handle, holding the work and watching the groove. So you can't do large panels, on your own.

That's what I figured, a jugglers nightmare.

I have a DC motor off an old Golf trolly, pretty powerful, geared down I think it will be powerful enough for aluminium, can always go twice or three times. I particularly want to use it for tipping, I can do it on the English wheel but I think for edge flanges it would be easier and get sharper folds with a bead roller. I don't have a folding machine and in any case the flanges are often curved so folding machine not much use.

I have several offers of lathes I can use but they are all at least an hours drive away. I need one I can use close by and as I need it.

Here's a nice jack.

http://www.moal.com/02_prod/flat_jack.html

Gary - That jack is a very neat bit of kit. :cool:

Looks ideal for people like Scottie & Mister Towed.

In fact that website has quite a few nice touches including their "bomber" gauges.
( There is even a alloy bonnet scoop. )

But more importantly is there any progress on your build to report?

Good luck, Paul. :)

Selling everything that’s to do with Sammie build, ideally in one lot... check thread for detail of items.😢 Gary.

Gary – Sorry to hear you are selling up. :icon_sad:

But someone else will get a great head start on a Spyder build.

As you did a great job restoring the rolling chassis and sorting out metal floors.

I was also a big fan of your choice of wheels. :cool:

http://i1076.photobucket.com/albums/...IMG_0123-1.jpg

Good luck, Paul. :)

PS
My offer to meet up and take you for a spin in my car still stands.

Cheers Paul, very kind.

Hi Gary,

Bit like me......keep looking in the garage thinking "one day" I was hoping that at least one of us in Kent was going to finish!:juggle:

Good Luck with the sale....the prep work is all there.


Nick

... i never got rid of Sammio kit... but now i really need to clear garage... So Sammio Spyder 67' now has to go. anyone interested?
gary.

GaryH – Hope you find a new home for your Sammio.

Good luck, Paul. :)

It's now in my workshop in Swindon.

https://i.imgur.com/TqSvbIMl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/s3PH1Eil.jpg

Oh dear !! Sorry to hear that you are unable to finish your project. Good luck for the future.
Are you planning another project?

Micky1Mo - Good luck with Gary's car, it would be great to see it finished. :cool:

It's coming along nicely .

Converted to LHD for a customer.
2lt 6 cylinder with overdrive fitted.

https://i.imgur.com/iOGeemwl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/fxm4gHil.jpg

There was a request for storage of a full size spare wheel so I had to rework the rear cage-frame. :juggle:

https://i.imgur.com/LE3SkcCl.jpg

There is now room to fit a spare wheel behind the seats. :high5: