How high
To spyder builders as you know I am building a G46 and because all the hassle in making the doors open and getting a decent looking job I have decided to fix the doors shut and blend them into the bodywork. The fist side is nearly done and I will post some pictures of the job at the weekend.
My question to you is how high from ground level are the top of the (doors) side of the car is the spyder to hop over? Mine is 840mm (33") but the car will be lowered by approx 50mm (2"0 |
Hi, Good question.. I just went out and measured mine at 31" so you should be ok :biggrin: (Who needs doors anyway!)
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Given that my co builder Charlie, my Son is 30 at the end of January and I was 30 just after he was born the answer to your question "who needs doors anyway!" might be me by the time it's finished. Perhaps I could carry around one of those library set of steps with about four steps and and pole with me. |
Just measured mine - it's 29" from floor to 'door' top. That's with a 3" lowering block under the rear spring, 90mm cut out of the front springs and with 175/70/14 tyres fitted.
I did have it even lower at the back but the diff would've ploughed a furrow in the road surface everywhere I went. :( |
G46 lowering
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My adjustable rear units will not give enough adjustment. I was considering moving the damper mounting point futher out on the axle. Obviously AH has his solution, but my back will not take such hard suspension. I have not even trial fitted the doors yet so live in ignorence of the problems ahead happy new year HM |
softer springs
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Softer springs and shorter (adjustable platforms) will be the way forward for us. With the engine gear box and two bodies on board the original springs hardly budge. We are going to use AVO coil over shock units as they have been helpful their advice is to best guestimate the rate of spring we need and then if it turns out they are to soft/hard then just simply change the springs as they are not that expensive. Have thought long and hard about it and I am sure we will be able to get it right using a 200lb rated spring. Perhaps (tongue firmly in cheek) we could have a "lowrider system" to allow me easy elegant access over the where the doors should be. |
Alternatively, instead of changing the springs which is expensive and difficult, perhaps you and your passenger could just gain/lose weight to adjust the ride height? It's so simple it might just work... :whistle:
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A more sensible (but expensive) suggestion from me - have you considered airbag suspension? This would give a 'pan scraping stance to allow the infirm to climb over the side, but could be raised for normal driving and jacked up to the max for speed bumps. Worth a look, the youtube clip below shows that it's so simple even a three year old can work it, so long as you don't give a sh*t about their health and safety...
http://airride.co.uk/ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=60aiAfSP0hg |
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Just measured mine with the door taped in place. It is 830mm. That is with the chassis at standard scimitar height above the ground and on standard scimitar wheels and tyres. |
Towed, I am never sure if you are serious or not! you have the better of me
AH we are about the same however we have now fitted 15" wire wheels with 80 profile tyres which has raised the car over what it was. Hassle is that the big wheels have filled the wheel arches beautifully and when we lower the car we are going to have to re profile the arches (fronts for sure) to get the wheels in and turning. The chassis is 125mm (5") above the ground and I think that is going to work better at about 75mm (3") |
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The airbag suggestion was serious though, I'd considered it for mine but discounted it on the grounds of cost, about two grand for an adjustable system. :( |
The chassis is 125mm (5") above the ground and I think that is going to work better at about 75mm (3")
Isnt the guide height for speed bumps up to 4" my cars sits at 4.5" and that is very low for clearance, 3 " will give you problems im sure... However when on the open road i think it will look the dogs danglies. Pops |
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