Tony I have (until tomorrow) a set of 185/70 14's and they do just clear the master cylinders but its just too close for comfort, and bear in mind I moved my bulkhead back!

Mac

cbjroms This may be of interest to you http://tire-size-conversion.com/ for tyre size etc, there's also a speedo re calculator.

175/80/14's fit mine fine front and rear.

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...psfe20db4f.jpg

I did move the front bulkhead back 20mm and bash them in with a lump hammer though. 175/70/14's should be a good fit but don't quite fill the arches like the 80 profiles do though. You can clearly see the difference in looks between mine (when it was on 70 profiles) and Phil and Barry's cars on 80's in this picture -


http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...ps51d93a64.jpg

Good comparison photo Mrt it's only in the flesh that you can see how they look, are all three cars on 14 inch rims, the green sammio looks to be on larger rims but it may be the angle deception of the photo?

All on 14's but I believe Phil's (green) Spyder is on 5.5" wide while mine is on 4.5" wide while all are on 175's. Not sure about wheel width on Barry's blue one. The main differences on that pic are the tyre aspect ratios, 70's on mine and 80's on the other two, and suspension settings, mine was lowered much more than either of the others at the time.

I'm usually a fan of Autobahn Scraping suspension but it was this picture that prompted me make the change to higher profile tyres and less slammed springs as I felt the other two cars just looked better than mine at that ride height.

Here's another shot from a different angle which also captures the difference -

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...psefc22dfc.jpg

yes towed right... green car 5.5 72 spock blue 4.5 60

I had 165/80/15 on my Spyder and while they did look _cool_ they were (i have to admit) a bit too big!

I always said i'd go for 14" on the next build and i've gone for 175/70/14 for the Miglia and so far they cause a _lot_ less problems!! :)

So if I go for the 165/70/14 tyres then I just need to make sure that the wheels have the correct (ie 95.25mm PCD).

What difference does the wheel thickness make? Not sure whether to go for 5.5 of 6. This must have an impact on the wheel's ability to clear the bulkhead?

Thanks

Chris

Grateful for all the answers above and I am now able to add some photos which summarise my progress to date.

First shows the shorter, Sammio outriggers and bracket to support the exhaust system.

Attachment 1773

Rear lip after major surgery and with slots for the seatbelt buckles.

Attachment 1774

I have bonded some webs into the top of the shell so that I can bolt these through the frame when the body is in situ. Including a couple at the back which will be bolted through the outriggers.

Attachment 1775

Side and front webs.

Attachment 1776

Not a very clear shot but trying to show the major hump surgery that I decided needed to be done.

Attachment 1777

CJ - Good to see some photos. :cool:

Was the major hump surgery to align them with the seats?

Good luck, Paul. :)

Hi Paul,

Considered hump surgery to align with seats but could not work-out a solution that would have looked correct. Probably why Gary put them where they are in the first place!

But a straight line across the front of the 2 humps was nowhere near perpendicular and the cockpit edge in way of the humps was very rough. So I thought that I would 'kill 2 birds....' but it involved quite alot of work.

Other problem is that the passenger hump is somewhat shorter the the one on the driver's side. So that still needs attention.

Chris

Have just fitted my brand new 14" alloys and put the body in-situ.

Attachment 2198

Attachment 2199

Attachment 2200

Now to decide whether I need to adjust the wheel arch to decrease the gap between tyre and arch.

Looking at other cars I think that it would look better if I did some surgery!

Chris

Chris – Nice wheels. :cool:

I’ve got a similar set, but in 13”, that came with my donor.

At some point I think I will have to adjust all four of my wheel arches too.

Good luck, Paul. :)

Thanks Paul,

The wheels do look nice but I have decided to do some wheel arch modifications.

So 10 minutes with the grinder and the familiar cut & shut work starts again. This is the near side positioned today and will now do the offside before getting everything glassed into place.

Attachment 2243

Chris

That's done the trick.

-

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...psefc22dfc.jpg[/QUOTE]

Mr T.You never told us you competed in the highland games?:razz:

Wonderful!

Yes, should've mentioned it really but I always find it handy to keep a caber in the car. You just never know when you're going to need one...

instead of a jack...

Chris - How much of a gap did you leave between the tyre and the wheel arch?

Cheers, Paul. :)

Paul - the wheel arch is now on a 35cm dimater circle from the centre of the wheel and looks about right.

Here are some pictures:

Attachment 2530

Attachment 2531

Attachment 2532

Attachment 2533

Attachment 2534

Seems to me that the front of each of the rear wheels is quite a way inside the wheel arch whereas the rear is well outisde the wheel arch. I have not changed this aspect of the bodyshell and so assume this pose to be standard?

Thanks

Chris

Chris - Thanks for the measurement & your arches looks miles better. :cool:

As the the rear arch profile, they did "sweep" back on the Spyder, as seen on this photo of Mister Towed.

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8b480ec9.jpg

Good luck, Paul. :)

Cant believe how much time has passed since my last post! But I have been plugging away slowly but surely on the Sammio.

Tonight I have fitted the bonnet which is now bolted to the car for the very first time. Was feeling pretty pleased with myself UNTIL I tried to open it and found that the skirt (underneath the grill) meets the chassis before the bonnet fully opens. Photo below probably gives a clearer picture.

http://www.madabout-kitcars.com/foru...1&d=1501098248

Cant remember seeing this on any of the other build threads that I have followed. Is it me or do I need to cut out some of the skirt to allow the bonnet to open fully?

YOU WILL NEED TO RELIEVE IT ...I have done it several times so don't panic !
Either slot each one individually or , an easier solution , one large slot across the two horns ...

Chris - Welcome back. :cool:

Sorry I'm in a bit of a rush, so these were the first two photos I could find.

Even though the Cordite/Spitfire combo is different to the Spyder/Herald one, I had the same issue.

So I cut a 'wavy' line along the bottom of the bonnet.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-P...o/DSCF4213.JPG

Which allow a full 90 degree opening without fouling the chassis.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-V...o/DSCF4240.JPG

Hope that helps and I can get better photos if you need them.

Good luck, Paul. :)

Still plodding away!

Looking back at my last post I am horrified to find that I have spent the majority of the last 12 months re-working the bonnet to get (only) a half-decent fit. Decided that it will do for now.

Now I am struggling to find enough height in front of the engine to fit a radiator. Current plan is to use a Honda radiator which I purchased some (years) ago on MrT's recommendation. But with the radiator filler cap below the height of the thermostat housing I need to find a way to fit a secondary filler neck in order that I can get the air out of the system. Wondering whether I can use flexible pipes to allow me to temporarily raise the height of the radiator (with the bonnet open) to bleed the air before dropping the radiator back down into its normal position.

Looking on Google images for inspiration (and in desperation) I see some Sammio/Cordites SEEM to have a radiator cap below the thermostat housing. How would this work?

Bingo!

Took a break and started to think about putting a header tank at the rear of the engine off one of the heater pipes.

Quick Google led me direct to the following advice from davecymru circa 2012 - 'Just beware of air locks. Myself, Pat and a few others simply cut that pipe and fitted a header tank there. As that will also assist if/when you drop the radiator.'

That seems to be a plan.

No excuses now then? ;-)

Take a look at this header tank fitted to the bulkhead and feeding the heater line.

https://i.imgur.com/BFCYdZ2h.jpg

Works well. :eusa_dance:

Chris – Good to see your build thread back again. :cool:

I might still have a plastic header tank from a Renault Megane in one of my boxes if you need it.

http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...L/DSCF7607.jpg

As my Frankenstein build approach meant I could keep the radiator in its original position.

If you can keep chipping away at it, eventually your ‘To Do’ list will be complete.

Good luck, Paul. :)

Thanks Paul,

Actaully had a trip to the local scrapyard this week and found a header tank complete with mounting rack. Also a top and bottom hose which ideally suits my
angled-forward radiator installation. Icing on the cake was finding an electric fan which fits the Honda Civic radiator I bought X years ago on Towed's recommendation.

I wish I could find anything at our local scrappies! I've asked them for various items, they've never rung me (as agreed) to say they have them. I even asked for wire from a loom, any loom, and still they can't provide. It is impossible to look around (not allowed into area with cars, even accompanied) and they don't have stock on shelves. Clearly just interested in crushing, nothing else. Where are we you ask, in the middle of a large town, too high-tec? No, in the depths of rural Norfolk, where everything (except the car breakers) is usually 10 years behind everyone else :pound:

Hey, slew you down boy, I live in rural Norfolk and I object to that assertion that we be a bit backwards.

It's 2008 boy and we stopped wearing smocks and chomping on bits of straw next year. We even have tractors with wirelesses built in so we can listen to Radio Naarfolk while we hold up the holidaymakers for hours and hours on what passes for roads round these parts, and we'm thinkin that one day, we might even get thinternet, but maybe not this century Yarp?

When we were in Essex (before emigrating to Norfolk) the breakers were prolific - you could walk around the yard and (at least select but not remove like the old days) any part you wanted. You could get any part you wanted, which would be removed (sometimes without the owner's permission :eusa_whistle:)

Wow, that header tank discussion brings back some memories!
I just wemt and checked my old Sammio build thread to see what i did and I cant believe it was 2011 when i went through that phase of my first build.

Keep going matey, its looking really good!

Funnily enough I was born in bred in Essex too before settling in Norfolk. I remember those breakers' yards but that was a very long time ago.

Sadly they've all been replaced with Spray Tan Booths, Teeth Whitening services and Botox While-U-Wait salons these days. Thanks The Only Way Is Orange, you've ruined my home county. :(

A few photos showing the way that I have plumbed-in the expansion tank.

https://i.postimg.cc/5tTtMcCF/file-9.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/JhGhg7GL/file1.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/pTjLW0fc/file2.jpg

Filling the system, however, showed that I have a major leak from the face of the thermostat housing. Probably due to me using a homemade gasket! Should be an easy fix.

Sorry, I get error messages on the photo links. :icon_sad:

Thanks Paul,

I have had major issues with getting photos to appear for some reason. Now fixed I think.

Productive morning. Thermostat gasket replaced and is now watertight. Radiator overflow stub has been blanked-off as this radiator cap allows water to pass either way. Overflow/overpressure will be hanlded by the expansion tank.

https://i.postimg.cc/L5M6nzv9/file-10.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/bw6J3SYg/file1-1.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/PJzfZPFm/file2-1.jpg

Made some templates out of correx for my cockpit side and rear panels. Was much easier than I feared and has given me a real buzz feeling that progress has been made.