Result! Excellent :).
Regards, Mick |
Well done
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Thanks everyone ! Moving onto lots of neglected DIY jobs around the house next. That will keep me going for a month or two .
I've got a couple of ideas for my next project, watch this space ! |
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The only danger would be scarring the body when releasing the mold.
It would have to be done in about 6 separate mold sections. Fancy laying-up upside down? 10 release waxes, 6 fogs of PVA and gelcoat before any lamination begins would do. Very complicated shapes in the pontoons. Well enough not to do it IMO. |
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Could this be a Formosa with a bit of a twist on the styling ? I think there is one underneath it !
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Lucky – Congratulations on the sale. :cool:
Whilst it is a shame you didn’t get to drive it more, paying off your mortgage is a real bonus. Can I just check what wheel/tyre sizes the donor car had compared to what you fitted instead? Did these changes make any difference to the way the car drove/handled? Finally, I’ll leave you with this photo that Mick posted. Cheers, Paul. :) https://live.staticflickr.com/7801/3...f0ff4878_b.jpg |
Hello Paul, I only did a mile or two in donor 7. That had 50 profile tyres so quite a harsh ride but very grippy with good feel. The 80 profile tyres helped with the gearing with the bigger engine. The handling still very good but slightly softer thanks to the higher profile. I didn't get anywhere near its limits, I tend to drive pretty steady anyway !
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London Yesterday
I didn't know where else to put this but, anyway, on my day out in London I wandered down to my boyhood home in Chelsea and found, just around the corner, a Ferrari dealership with this beast in the window. The suited flunkeys within looked down their noses at the peasant photographing their charge as I shot.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...835818fe_b.jpg Further down the road is a vast cemetery, through which I used to walk to Stamford Bridge. There I spied this memorial, which speaks for itself. Wonky photo' alert. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...d620f40c_b.jpg Regards, Mick |
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Wow cheeky bastards
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Could be worse: Yellow Monaco dude would have advertised it as an ex-Le Mans winner with a platinum plated titanium frame designed and fabricated by Enzo himself. Regards, Mick |
If you look below the text it says - "£166.45 As stated" .... bargain!! ;)
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Wow ! When we did the deal the buyer had claimed that he had already sold the car and the new owner was going to fit a V12 engine back into it. That idea must have changed, at least all my hard work won't be undone !
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For sale
This looks familiar...
https://www.classic-trader.com/uk/ca...cWbnPWEmD7J5p8 |
LOL, I think I sold it cheap ! I notice the price has gone up again since the previous dealer had it ! The details are wrong in the advert including the 300HP V12 engine amongst other things !
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250 tr
I did say at the time you had made a fantastic job of the car and should have taken a mould and started selling them. Albeit they would have been GRP just shows the desire!
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I'm thinking of finishing my Formosa in the same way. Whilst much of the TR was bare aluminium a fair bit was painted but you wouldn't know. I found some paint that was an exact match looking like rough ali !
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250tr
Excellent will be interesting to see
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4 Bis Rue de Ripoff, more like. First reg '57? They're having a laugh!
Regards, Mick |
No disrespect to the builder but the lies in this advert are unbelivable and clearly in breach of the website.
Example text from the advert...... Description and History The Ferrari offered here is an exact reproduction of a 250 TR with Scaglietti body. The Italian firm Giordanengo; with nearly 30 years of experience, has a reputation of being one of the best in the world in building Ferrari recreations. To build this car, the brilliant craftsmen of Giordanengo handcrafted an alloy body around a tubular steel chassis. Every effort was made to meet the proper specifications, so that the rebuild was virtually indistinguishable. of the authentic. This replica, owned by an English industrialist, is not finished. Indeed, the latter had done step by step the reconstruction of this replica but could not carry out his project following a fatal illness. |
I think the dealer is the third owner since I sold it. The story has changed or been embellished and some of the facts have changed along the way. Apparently I am writing this from the grave !
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Hi, can you please let me know more about the drape moulding technique for the headlamp covers and windscreen? Any advice would be appreciated. Kevin
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Anyone who wants to know more about what happened to the original Ferrari chassis that was under the 250 TR before the body was cut up and removed needs to watch this video. From about 12.30 in, all is explained !
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8aouiOxqcdA Also the story of chassis 0611GT with before and after details https://www.forza-mag.com/issues/179...a-with-a-twist |
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Make a wooden frame a couple of inches bigger than the mould to hold the plastic sheet. The plastic sheet can be screwed to the frame with self tappers every couple of inches. Heat in your oven at around 160c until you can see the plastic start to sag then quickly take it out and press it firmly over your mould. Hold it down long enough until it begins to cool and it will hold the shape. I used 3mm perspex but you also use polycarbonate. There is an element of trial and error but its quite easy to do. |
I also cover the mould surface with felt fabric to prevent scratching the polycarbonate which is softer than the perspex. 160C is a great temperature for both.
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I heard that Donald Trump owned it but the Democrats stole it from him. Like seriously, Dude, it's true and sh*t. I read it on Twitter. Rise up! RISE UP!
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Looks like a great project. The Locost chassis wasn't modified, the track and wheel base were correct. The driving position was very short but that was due to tiny cockpit area governed by the body shape. If designing from scratch you might want to increase the space inside a little. No wheel spacers fitted but the hub adaptors do increase the track a little. Luckily on my car it all fell into position.
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Thank you for your response. I will keep you updated.👍
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Kevin, why Styrofoam?
Urethane foam is much easier to work and compatible with polyester resins. |
Thank you for this suggestion. What coating do you have to use before applying polyurethane resins?
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Thank you for the suggestion. What coating do you have to use before applying polyurethane resin and matting etc?
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that would depend upon if you intend to make a mould or simply a male one-off body which will require a lot of post-finishing.
If making a mould, a very fine finish is needed. Should you make your body buck and use it as a final product, it will be much more labor intensive to finish. Send me a PM for a more detailed and lengthy explanation. |
https://rqriley.com/fiberglass-over-foam/
Robert Q. Riley describes using polyurethane foam - which has a very fine grain and is not melted by standard polyester fibreglass resin. Polyurethane foam used to be readily available in insulation supply companies - I'm not sure if it still is. Polystyrene foam is much more coarse and doesn't cut or sand in the same way. You can use a different, more expensive fibreglass resin (epoxy) to avoid melting polystyrene. |
Should you choose to use polystyrene foam, the extra expense of epoxy resins may be avoided by (after shaping) coating the plug with latex house paint, several coats. Them applying mould release wax and PVA
to the surface. This prevents polyester resins from attacking the styrene foam. PITA to remove the polystyrene foam should some stick to the part (some will). Easily removed with acetone in a squirt bottle. The acetone will dissolve the foam quickly. Recently did this on three complicated fiberglass parts. PITA in all. |
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Works well with polyester resin. Also builders 'squirty foam' is useful and can be used to fill gaps or join boards. |
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