That's coming along nicely,
i used the original fuel cap as i want the option of either lifting the clam or using the flap, i got a postbox lock off ebay for a few pounds item number 252325313444 if anyone needs one. I have also got gas struts to lift the clam:yo::yo: |
:icon_sad::icon_sad:Painted some bits:
https://i.imgur.com/mUfwcPNh.jpg Glassed in the whole hinge assembly and painted it all over: https://i.imgur.com/MjN2r0Zh.jpg Will be doing the bumper today then I can start adding colour on the outside! The wife is due any day now though so depending on how it all goes, I may not be able to do anything on the car for some time :icon_sad: |
Have started rubbing down in preparation for adding colour. Interesting to see which coloured primers bring out the imperfections in the fiberglass best. Looked good when it was all white!
https://i.imgur.com/kbcpXazh.jpg https://i.imgur.com/Ty6XxeXh.jpg |
I've done a few bits and pieces:
Painted the hard top: https://i.imgur.com/87MIOQuh.jpg Fitted the side repeaters: https://i.imgur.com/q22iXWnh.jpg Bit more work on the front wheel arches: https://i.imgur.com/VyeIZnzh.jpg https://i.imgur.com/5MdThBhh.jpg |
Looks like you are making steady progress. :cool:
Good luck, Paul. :) |
I have a black roof :) it will sit in the groove in the window seal but I need to paint the window frame first.
https://i.imgur.com/uDvmoCJh.jpg |
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Looking good Nick - liking the Ken Block RS200 homage in black styling
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You will have to keep those sliders open in the Perspex windows and the MR2 windows down when you’re driving
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Paint is happening. Got the car out for a good dust out and a hoover. Side skirts and doors for paint next.
https://i.imgur.com/kVoPTyjh.jpg |
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Well done Nick. Did you send pictures before and after along with the forms and manage to do it based on original MR2 paint colour? Presume you haven’t MOT’d it so no problem making change without current MOT?
I was holding fire with mine until I was nearing completion but you’ve got me thinking now I should just go ahead and do the V5 changes now. |
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Cheers Nick - just sent you message
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looking good
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Been a little while since I last posted on here but I've still been painting:
https://i.imgur.com/oUxEgIUh.jpg Annoyingly, I found the batch no. of the paint tin I used for the bonnet was different to all the others! :( Hopefully I can get away with giving it a light dusting to darken it down a bit. |
Looking great and can’t see the shade difference from the pics.
Hope you’ve got the HOONIGAN vinyls ready to apply when you’ve finished the rear clam! |
Looking good
i need to get cracking on mine again :smile: |
Nostromo/Wozzy - have either of you wired your front headlights in yet? I’m just completing the wiring on mine and got everything connected up and working apart from the headlights which when on either dipped or main beam are lighting up as main beam. I seem to remember Mick (Retro200) saying a relay was needed here given you only have one negative connector on the H4 Golf lights for both main and dipped . Is this the way you both went?
Many thanks |
Funnily enough, I expect been waiting for one of you two to come up with the answer to that. Yes, Mick did say about using a relay. I believe a 4 point relay to be exact but how this is wired up I don't know. I've not really put too much effort into finding the answer yet.
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If you get this sorted please let me know as i am starting a new build shortly
so have it all to do again |
I managed to spend some time today with the meter on the dim and dip (low and high) beam circuits on the MR2. Remember mine is a facelift model so already head separate bulbs with separate +ve and -ve for each beam. Nostromo I think you might have an easier time here if yours is a pre-facelift as they should have had a single H4 type connector for the original MR2 lights if I recall.
IGNORE FROM HERE ON AND READ THE NEXT POST BELOW ... AS ALWAYS SIMPLER IS BETTER !!! Anyway, the issue is that for the facelift MR2 you need to somehow switch the -ve connection depending on whether you have dim or dip setting on the stalk (or you are flashing dip). After looking online I believe the way to do this is with a changeover relay that in normal state (unenergised) has the dim (low) beam -ve but when it is energised (with the dip/high beam circuit) it switches to the dip (high) beam -ve. Not sure I’ve got this 100% correct and I have a couple of changeover relays in the post to me tonight, but I having managed to test this manually by changing the connections on the fly and testing it seems to work, so long as I’ve got my theory right on how the changeover relay works. Now the challenge here and going back to what Retro200 said, the changeover relay is 5 pin not 4 pin so this may all be way wrong. Here’s a picture (apologies for how poor this looks but it was just a quick sketch on the iPad) showing how this should work in practice .... http://www.madabout-kitcars.com/foru...pictureid=1258 I will come back to you all once the relays have arrived. ....... Er... just looked again at wiring diagram, and I think this will work but when on main beam the low/dim circuit will be active as well. I’ve checked and I don’t think this is a MOT failure although won’t be great for heat in the bulb/lamp housing and will probably burn the bulb out quickly. To over come this a second changeover relay would be needed I believe to switch off the dim/low power when the high power circuit is on. |
Took a step back and think I’m over engineering this. As the issue is that both high and low circuits are active when using either earth (when it comes to connecting either earth to the H4 block) a much simpler solution is below ... but I need to go to the garage and test it. Also fits with Retro200 approach of using 4 pin relay.
Rather than connect the +ve for the high beam straight to the H4 block (whereby it’s active using the -ve from either circuit) route it via a standard 4 pin make or break relay which is activated by the high beam circuit itself. I believe that this means both high and low filaments are lit on the bulb in high beam operation which will have the same issue as previous reply. http://www.madabout-kitcars.com/foru...pictureid=1259 I’ve got a couple of these relays already so will give this a go first. |
Rock and roll, looks good to me! Hopefully this'll work. Mines a facelift too so I'm facing the same problem as you Dave. I'll get myself a couple of relays tomorrow.
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I also checked the MOT regs last night and it’s OK if you light low beam at the same time as high beam so that will be fine come test time. As I said though if you do lots of driving on full beam the bulb and housing will get very hot.
I should get round to testing this later today so will let everyone know if it works out OK. |
Quick update .... just fitted relay to one side and it works! Hurrah - let me know if it helps to do a better wiring diagram than the one I sketched last night and I will put this up on my build thread.
I realised as I was wiring the relay up that my H4 connector wiring was wrong on the diagram I posted last night. Low beam is the top and high beam is the side pin opposite the negative (I’d shown high beam as being on the top of the plug/connector). Wozzy - are you building another for yourself ? |
Great news!! I'll have a go at that next time I manage to get out to play with the car for a bit... not that I can test it, it's had a flat battery for about 4 months now.
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[QUOTE
Wozzy - are you building another for yourself ?[/QUOTE] yes mate ,i have two at the moment one to do a bit different than before, and i have just bought project Badrep off nick so i will complete that aswell |
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Nick made a fantastic start on that with all the 3d printed bits and the Volvo engine. That one'll be a bit of a weapon. |
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Its got a 2zz in it now |
So I decided to spray bits of my rear end (oo er) so that I could get a better idea of the lumps and bumps that need rubbing down and/or filling. Then I got a bit carried away and did the whole thing...
https://i.imgur.com/PYUZf3th.jpg https://i.imgur.com/CNzuw6Dh.jpg I'm actually really pleased with how it's come out although there's definitely a few patches that need attention. However, what I can now do is wire up the front and rear lights and see if I can get it MOT'd!! :D |
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Hey Nick - looks like you are nearly there! Love the Matt black look.
Let us know how you get on with your MOT when you’re there - I’m a bit concerned about headlamp alignment on mine. Tried to get them as close as I can and I’ve got some adjustment left with the Golf adjustment screws. |
One of my friends will be doing the mot so I'm hoping he'll allow me some time while I'm there to use his alignment thingy as I suspect my headlights will be aiming all over the joint!
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I may have just ordered a proper exhaust as well. Same as yours Swifty as it popped up on eBay! :icon_cool:
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Hope you managed to get it - I’ve not really been able to test mine out apart from starting the car on the drive to keep the engine turned over every couple of weeks. It does sound nice above 3.5k revs and it’s quite throaty at idle. Oh and it looks great through the rear window looking down and from what you can see from the rear of the clam
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Yeah I got it and looking forward to getting it on the car. It's another step to getting it on the road. I do still have a few bits to sort out before I can get it booked in but am spending as much of my free time on it as possible. Hopefully getting a new battery for it tomorrow so I'll be able to get it out the garage!
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Nice new exhaust as the other one is just a bit too much hassle for the moment. Must learn to weld.
https://i.imgur.com/x7zejQIh.jpg |
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