Chris,

We bonded our shell onto the framework over Easter weekend. (I actually bought the resin for Easter 2011 - but that's another story!)

We also cut large vertical slots in the back, progressively dropping the tail to get it to 'look right', and ended up packing them back up a lot much as you have in your photo's.

The key thing I feel is to get the fibreglass sill to at least curve in level with, or preferably below, the chassis rails both sides. This is difficult on the front drivers side.

Like you, we cut off the bottom 'foot' of the moulding beside the master cylinders in order to drop the side down a bit, but left the centre moulding as made.

Using two ratchet straps, one across the winscreen area and one at the rear of the cockpit we pulled it all into shape for bonding. The drivers side front was touch and go, but with a bit of metal trimming we did get it just down level with the side of the chassis frame. Passenger side was no problem.

I will try and post some pictures later on.

Paul D.

Ahh, it's not just me that's got a problem with the driver's side of the shell not covering the outrigger then... :icon_sad:

Nope, mines like that and it all looks fine on the road! I know others who have picked up on that during the shell positioning have cut the bulkhead part down so that it sits flat. But TBH mine is all on the road with the front edge of the body not lipping under the chasis rails and it all looks fine! Well.... to me it does :)

Yes, that's exactly the issue with mine - the bulkhead is cut level, the chassis is straight and level, I put a spirit level across the cockpit and that's level but the driver's side of the shell doesn't cover the outrigger with the body on. You've got to look pretty hard to spot it though.

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...ion/001-15.jpg

I'm going to do some more measuring just to be sure before finally fitting the body, and I might just extend the bottom edge of the body down so it wraps under the outrigger the same as the nearside one does.

I had the same issues with my build. In the end I decided to leave it as it is rather than modify anything to drop it. Like you, I made sure that the cockpit was level, which it was so after painting the chassis black it was hardly noticable even when looking for it.

Agreed, the drivers side on mine only just comes down level with the bottom of the chassis rail. Think mine is a bit lower than Towed because I removed the web from the shell that sits on the bulkhead outboard of the hydraulic master cylinders.

Attachment 605

I have also found, like tltone, that the front edge of sill on the passenger side sits 50mm further forward than same edge on the driver's side. So like him I am planning a bit of 'cutting & shutting'.

Attachment 606

Attachment 607

Chris

mister towed .......thats one big smile you have...love the grey and orange strips tooo....

The smile's because that was the first time I'd got the body on. You should've seen the smile I had on my face when Phil J took me out for a run in his finished Triumph 2500 engined Spyder! :biggrin:

As for the grey with orange hoops look, I think it really works...

Body bonding alignment.
 

Hi Chris,

Have taken some pic's to show the alignment we have ended up with. Not saying it's right, but it was the best we could get without major surgery. I think I am happy with it, see how it compares with yours.

Rear body blocked in place - now bonded as seen.

http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSCF3324.jpg

Passenger side front sill end.

http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSCF3312.jpg

Drivers side front sill end.

http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/...d/DSCF3309.jpg

Drivers side rear sill end.

http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSCF3319.jpg

Passengers side rear sill end.

http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSCF3318.jpg


http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSCF3311.jpg

http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSCF3310.jpg

http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSCF3320.jpg

http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSCF3322.jpg

Hope this might give others some ideas, even if it is just to say where we have gone horribly wrong.

Good luck with your bonding,

Paul D.

Looks pretty good to me from here.

Are your cockpit edges level side to side? I shouldn't think it would notice if they weren't, but have you checked with a spirit level?

I must confess we did not take any real notice of the relative heights of the cockpit sides, just the sills. I was keen to try and make sure the metal chassis was hidden both sides by the fibreglass. Did consider slicing along the length of the drivers side about three inches up and stretching it downwards toward the front & then glassing in the split, but was happy with the results of our "fettling" (fnaar!).

Having just put a long level across the cockpit I am surprised to find that the Drivers side is higher than the passengers by 1 to 2 cm - according to where you measure. I went across in front of the steering wheel, centre, and rear just in front of the headrest hump.

It doesn't seem logical that the drivers side is the one we have really pulled down as much as we can to get the bonnet swage lines level with the chassis both sides, and yet it is still higher.

Not to worry though, as soon as the driver gets in it will look level! Unless I lose some weight that is...

On mine, when I measured up to the level where I've cut the screen frame off the bulkhead it's 20mm lower on the driver's side despite having cut through the same bolt-hole on both sides. The shell still doesn't cover the end of the side-rail though. I quite like the idea of splitting the shell, lowering the edge and glassing in the gap though, sounds like a plan...

I had planned to split the shell to lower it beyond the side rail. But on my shell, the passenger side sill has much more of a curve on it than the driver's side. So I am now thinking that I will extend the driver's side sill by adding more of a curve.

Chris

I remember a kit car manufacturer that I spoke to years ago who was building Ford cortina based kits. He Had contacted Fords about the accuracy of the diagonal measurement he had between shock absorber mountings which were 3/8" out and Fords said that was miles better than a MK2 cortina, so our donors probably vary by the same if not more.

These Sammios will look fine and no admirer is going to start running a tape measure over them.

I think you guys are doing a fantastic job, great inspiration for us novices starting out. :eusa_clap:


Len.

I kinda mirror what Len , Straight sixer , says above.....

When I first started these cars , it was to build one for myself and try and recoup/justify my expenditure by building a couple to sell....at that point I didn't think it would be much more than that. After no. 1 sold and was re-sold giving me credit for the build , interest increased to a level where we decided we needed to straighten out and soften that first attempt.....I still didn't think they would go to the level they have.
The car was designed to be a cheap body swap option for people wanting to bring the whole 1950's Special thing into the modern day....

They are priced as such.

I never thought people would embrace the concept to the stage where some VERY nice examples are being built. You kind of hope it will happen , but don't expect it...

The result of people building them on a higher level , than I originally thought would happen is that the cars aren't symmetrical and do need a little tweaking if being built to a good standard....

If its any consolation , they are a LOT better than the body I started with !!

A famous Hot Rod builder was picked up on a symmetry issue on one of his cars a few years back and his response was something like '' Don't worry about it - you can't see both sides at once !''

We have reworked the body on the Cordite , so it is our best yet ...dearest too !! But still leagues ahead of the competition !!

Gary,

I think that the tweaking is half the fun of building a Sammio and is actually a feature of many, far more expensive kit cars. It is just a case of builders appreciating that this sort of engineering is never going to be mm perfect and totally symmetrical. It is actually part of the satisfaction of building to decide what matters, what doesn't and what a particular builder is happy to live with or put the effort into changing.

The fantastic thing about this forum is that builders are so willing to share their experiences and advice. This not only increases the sense of enjoyment that you can get from building a Sammio (you can never get stuck) but also the potential for innovation.

Chris

Agreed, again and again. Best bunch out there for helping out and passing on valuable tips.

It's the only way to make sure that every Sammio is EXACTLY DIFFERENT!

Len.

I agree Chris, and as you are only down the road in Romsey, you are more than welcome to stop by mine or if you need a hand let me know and I can pop up :icon_biggrin:

Just finished adjusting the bodyshell so that the two sides are roughly in the same position at the front of the bulhead and also to give a bit more 'fold under' at the front of the driver's side sill.

Attachment 616

Attachment 615

Tomorrow's task is to build a frame for the petrol tank behind the diff - just got to find some 25mm box section first though!

Chris

Not made much progress over the summer for one reason or another. But had a good day in the garage today.

I have decided to stick with the existing Herald radiator and spent a few hours making-up a suitable mounting arrangement which I have tack welded in place.

Attachment 706
Attachment 705

Whilst admiring my handywork I thought back to Mr T's thread and remembered that he had lowered his radiator to prevent it fouling the bonnet. I have concentrated in getting my radiator in the same place as it would be on the Herald. So will it foul the bonnet? Cannot recall any of the other build threads talking about the Herald radiator?

Whilst under the car, I noticed the the gaitors on both track-rod ends had split as shown in the following photos:
Attachment 704
Attachment 707
Can this be anything other than faulty parts?

Chris

Can this be anything other than faulty parts?

Yes definitely poor quality rubber to perish that quick. As these rubbers will now under newish regulations fail the MOT, replacement rubbers are available and may be easier than getting them exchanged.
Good to see you are moving forward with your Sammio again.

I used the herald radiator and yes it will foul the bonnet if left in the normal position. I think that I lowered it by about 3 inches but cant remember the exact figure, sorry. Once it is lowered, the cap will no longer be the highest point on the system so you will need some sort of expansion tank, which most people have placed where the heater used to be as it is convenient although as with all things Sammio, there is no right or wrong.

Have made little, if any, progress in 2013 my build is now back underway.

I decided to get to the chassis/frame running before fixing the body. Last couple of weeks have seen the engine running very sweetly and so I was planning to fix the body over the weekend. Then I found that the brake master cylinder is too tall - can't remember noting this on other build threads?

Attachment 1265

Anyone recommend a suitable remote master cylinder replacement?

Thanks

Chris

Chris - This upgraded m/c has been used by a few people...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MASTER-CYL...item5add9eeea9

I've actually got a brand new one in a box "somewhere" that I will not need.

http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...L/DSCF8217.jpg

As by using the Spitfire bulkhead on my Cordite I can keep the original "tandem" m/c.

PM me if you are interested and no hard feelings if you want to use something else.

Cheers, Paul. :)

Whilst I am doing some surgery to the main tub, I decided to get matters underway with the DVLA to see what would happen.

2 weeks ago I submitted my old V5, the relevant form and Sammio receipt. Today I received a new V5 in the post which records that my car is a Triumph Sammio.

Back in the garage again this afternoon to wrestle with some more fibreglass work. Guess those outriggers can fall-off now!

Chris

Did you send photos? And was the receipt for the sammio letterheaded? and you could post some pics of what you have done...

I have a registered "Triumphsammiospyder" but need it to return to a Triumph Herald in order to be able to export it to France, I wonder how easy the reversal process would be. (Must be a recognised mark for export seemingly.)
With hindsight I would never have registered it but at the time was an achievement taking it for its inspection..
Guess depends on the picture process, can show my build in reverse order..
Pops

No photos, just the receipt that I was given by Gary when I purchased the kit.

Cant scan anything at the moment. But I completed the V627/1 saying that all the major components had come from the donor. There is only a single line for Chassis/Bodyshell and I put my chassis number into that.

Page 2 of the V627/1 asks about the Original Parts not used: Body panels including doors, bonnet, boot lid and rear cockpit have been sold as spares.

Page 2 Other information: V5C for Reg No ****** is attached. Vehicle is owned by me and SORN. Invoice from Sammio Motor Co is attached. Company is no longer trading.

Page 2 Additional Notes: Sammio Motor Company was a supplier of replacement body panels to fit Triumph Herald cars. This bodywork swapped car is called a Sammio Spyder. It is not a kit car - only the external body panels are changed. It is not a replica but is made to resemble a 1950s Italian Sports Car.

Hope this helps.

Chris

Chris - Thanks for the V5C details. :cool:

Obviously, your experience is completely different to what I was told to do. :rolleyes:

So I think I might fill in the forms and send my paperwork off next week, rather than wait until the bodyshell is bonded on.

Good luck, Paul. :)

Chris, would you be prepared to let those of us who are about to register have your regisration number? We can then cite it. Your path seems so straightforward. A precedent is a powerful thing.

+1

Chris on page 2 it asks for year in which rebuilt by you so i assume you put a current date and photos of the body on the chassis but it does not mention about being roadworthy, did the photos show your car virtually roadworthy?

Swifty - I've spent a lot of time today pulling together photos and words to cover my build, as that is what I was specifically asked to do.

But reading the above, Chris didn't need to send any photos of his car at all! :eek:

Which is why I am following this thread very closely, as I am planning to send my paper work in as soon as I can pull it all together.

Cheers, Paul. :)

Am away at the moment hence the slow response.

I am not sure about my Reg Number being quoted as a precedent because a) it should not make any difference and b) if it does then I end up on DVLA's list of trouble-makers!

The thing to remember with matters such as this is that you are dealing with civil servants who just want forms to be clear and answers predictable. The more superfluous info that you give them the more they feel that they have to examine it in great detail to avoid being caught out. I was one for 20 years and know how the systems struggles when it does not receive yes/no answers. And if you do happen to ask a civil servant what info they need to make a decision then they will ask for absolutely everything that may possibly be in existence - just in case. Always better to have info and not use it than not have it at all!!

All that I did was to complete the form as simply as possible. All the key parts of my Sammio came from donor. So that's what I said on the form. I sold the body panels such as doors, bonnet & boot then replaced them with Sammio body panels. So that's what I said on the form.

Fill the form in as I did and the outcome is assured. No photos or extra details are necessary and they will beg more questions. So KISS.

Chris

Chris - Your insight does explain the "non answers" I've had to all my specific written questions. :icon_sad:

Unfortunately my reg. number is now in the system and I have been told to supply photos.
( Hope to take the final ones I need tomorrow. )

So I hope everyone else will follow your example and not mine. :rolleyes:

Cheers, Paul. :)

Yep... KISS

I have been spending lots of time in the garage recently and have now sorted the exhaust and dome some surgery on the body to get it looking more symmetrical and almost got it to the point where it is ready to be bonded on. Copied a few tricks from others and have introduced a couple of my own ideas. Keep meaning to take some photos but haven't had the chance.

Final 'check' before fitting the body permanently into position is the rear wheel arches. Car is currently sitting on 13" donor wheels and the wheel arch gap is too big. But I am planning to copy Trevor (earlier of this parish, who collected his kit at the same time as me and finished some time ago!) and fit 14" wheels. Think he fitted 165/70/14 and don't recall he had any problems with the tyres touching on full lock. Looking at some 14" Minilights on Ebay which have the correct PCD and are available in a variety of offsets.

Do 14" wheels make sense to any of you guys out there?

Thanks

Chris

Yes they certainly make the car look better if you check out my thread and others you will see the difference the 14 inch rims make although i still had to alter the rear arches to a symmetrical curve and am in no doubt the front arches will require further surgery but overall to me the 14 inch looks better than the standard 13 inch rims but at the end of the day it's down to what you like the look of.

Look forward to see some pics.

And that tyre size is fine, don't whatever you do fit 185/70 R14s there too big and you will end up buying a new set of tyres at 165/70 R14....ask me how I know :-(

Mac

I have the 185 70 14 fitted and that must be why i was unable to fit a floor mounted pedal box like you have mac, but they do look good.