Don't worry, it will float

Thanks Geoff, Not immediately helping the blood pressure there, I have never been so interested in maritime traffic, not even when I shipped the house contents out to NZ! Yes the shipping is insured!

As long as it floats in the right direction Jag! I am not sure the mgbgt rear door will be in once piece after a smell of salt air tho!

Quick update, things are going to start happening
 

Hi guys, been a while since an update so thought better let you know what’s happening.
Kit turns up in NZ supposedly next wed. Be about a week to clear customs and freight to Auckland so hopefully delivered around 11th July. I am testing the donor car this week so it has reg and testing thru till Jan next year when the car will be back on the road. Then donor is starting being stripped next weekend.
First jobs are checking all the exposed bits/discs and pads as req’d and extending/logging all the wiring/harnesses.
I am going to talk to og rims about wheels, but they don’t do 72 spoke 15” on their website, only 13” - so we’ll see.
Likely the fuel tank is coming out to do the filler extension, so sub frame etc has to come out for that work.
All going well, work starts next week! Cheers. :amen:

Good luck.... it is all in the detail....

By the way did you talk to these guys http://www.lucentt.co.nz/painting-on-plastic for chroming your bumpers?

Just scored this seal at para rubber for the boot lid https://pararubber.co.nz/automotive/...boot-seal.html

Did you also find these wheels http://www.acww.com.au/catalog/index...roducts_id=141

Hey fella, awesome work on the detective work.

No haven’t talked to the plastic guys, how I didn’t find these considering I am 5 mins away but hey, thanks for finding them for me! Will see what they can do and update in case you are interested at all.

Pararubber seal looks good, again I need to explore those guys as to what they have once the panels get here and I know what exactly I need, but a great start thanks.

Yes found the Aussie wheels guys, I may drop them a line once I have heard back from ogrims in the us. Got a few questions in with them. The donor got wof’d today and is now officially off the road. Teardown starts in the next few days. If you had any trip ups or things to be careful of always happy to receive sage advice! Cheers hopefully full of luck for the challenges ahead.

You'll need to splash out on these https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10-P...27424c4dACeUtb
They will break when you pull the sill covers off:frusty:

These guys have lots of helpfull insights https://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tec...eplacement.htm

Probably best to start with the wheel arch liners they are though to get out but there are a few bolts behind them for the side panels and sills. For the hood you'll need a second person but everything else you can do by yourself. Although I did not take the cabrio roof off....

PM me your email and I will send you my disassembly doc, only covers 10-15% at the moment but will be good if someone checks it

Awesome fella, PM sent. Cheers really appreciated. Will log all those little bits like clips etc, really handy to know. Catch you soon.

Momentous day -It has all started
 

Well guys I have put aside the disappointment that the kit panels are delayed during shipping and now not in the country yet and not expected until next Friday. So at least a week and a half until those get in my grubby hands.

So I started today anyway, managed about three hours on the car in amongst still trying to finish the build area. Reasonably easy start, assisted ably by NZ Idol's disassembly guide and the good condition of the car itself. Everything that has come off so far in good nick and the uncovered areas look pretty good. Black lines on the alloy bumper are the approx cut lines for the one piece clam to clear.

Here's the progress.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1803/...6b2dc87b_z.jpgFront strip 2

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/915/4...13cb4bca_z.jpgFront strip 3

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1804/...1fb7feea_z.jpgFront strip

It is really happening chap.

Oh how is it so difficult to get things right?
 

Yes it is fella!

So how can people get things so wrong? Today I was made aware that the customs clearance and associated bill has been granted so happy days. Also during the process the ship is now arriving in NZ tomorrow so the "update" I had last Friday couldn't have been more wrong! Anyhoo, good news is I should get the kit early next week now.

Progress tonight after work has been good, all rear end stripped, including rear quarter panels. Condition is good underneath so minimal cleaning and protection will be required. Just the sills and the Fwd lower panels left and then the task of trying to work out how the roof comes out! Keep ya posted.:der:

I have broken it now!
 

Hey guys, progress has been coming thick and fast, virtually stripped all the way now, only a few minor bits to tidy and remove.

Will get the cert guy around now to get stuck in to see how we are going to extend the fuel filler.

Really satisfying getting this far, however it doesn't matter how comfortable you are turning something roadworthy into this state does have it moments!

Progress after about 7 hrs stripping:

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1766/...6ffeb6b3_z.jpgFull strip

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1766/...247c3849_z.jpgInterior

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/836/4...bdbf922c_z.jpgRear quarter

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/839/4...7c1e6742_z.jpgRear roof removed

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1766/...886fd8aa_z.jpgRear valance strip

I would be tempted to fit the fuel filler and only show the examiner after the body has been fitted!
The pipe is only pushed down into the tank and glued in place with sealant, not the ideal solution but I can't think of an alternative.
If someone had a spare tank sitting on a table you might be able to see if some kind of adaptor could be machined up. Could then be sold to builders.

Fair thoughts jag, but over here fuel pipe extensions are part of the cert process so has been declared from the start. Reason we will discuss is whether we can work an adaptor that has an inner tube/outer sheath assy that can be bonded and clamped in place and without taking the tank out. 1st look at it seems to be tight so I may be taking the tank out anyway to do it. The only issue for me is disturbing all that may end up with reliability or failures down the road. We’ll see what happens. I have thought to see if I can find a tank to play with but won’t be cheap.

Plodding progress
 

Hi guys, been slowly plodding along for the end of the week, spent time cleaning as I go as well as tidying the car for some of the "dis-established" systems. Have removed:
- Power roof and system including pump/reservoir and actuator
- Fwd headlight wash system
- Fwd screen upper rubber
Have been working on the rear light harnesses, for some reason can't get the reversing light to fire so that is my scratchy beard issue for tomorrow.
I am really lucky with the donor I bought, no signs of corrosion/rust or issues under any of the unearthed areas, it has been looked after during the 19 years it has been on the road. Once the panels arrive this week it will be full steam ahead when I can get to it, going to focus on the front clam/electrics etc to give me a good positive shot in the arm start before I get stuck into the heavier shifting of the rear and the bonding work/fuel filler and fuel tank work. I am not looking forward to the sub frame coming out if that is what it needs. :shock: Inner door skins coming off tomorrow so I can start scratching the grey matter on how I am going to marry the Mini door handles into the door mech. I also need to change the drivers seatbelt to meet the regs for removing an airbag, so a new webgrabbing belt will be fitted. I am happy with the condition and look of the interior rear (i.e. storage box and upholstery around the roll bar area) so am keeping that until I later on play with the interior in a few years.

Here's some photos.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1763/...77c7fc9f_z.jpgFull strip 4

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1769/...bc4ca993_z.jpgFull strip 3

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1783/...5b9f97ed_z.jpgFull strip 2

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/922/4...5cac2172_z.jpgFull strip 5

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1783/...80a0f165_z.jpgFull strip 4

Looking good so far. :cool:

I can't imagine what the wait is like, knowing how far your kit has travelled.

Good luck, Paul. :)

Thanks Paul, yeh the wait is hard, but it has given me a bit of time to step back and think. Even though I still have a lot to work through and stuff to buy when I can work it all out in my hands, it has allowed me some calm before the storm. Just got to hope the stuff turns up in good nick now as I have well and truly stuffed up a nice z3! Cheers.

Rear light assembly wiring assist
 

Hi guys, this is as much for me as it is for you so I have a record of it on my thread, but if you need a bit of assistance with the wiring in the Z3 harness at the rear of the car "pre the rear light assy plugs" then here we go.

Lights L/H rear

Brown - Negative
Blue/Green - L/H Indicator
Blue/Yellow (2 wires) - L/H reverse (and feed for R/H Reverse light)
Yellow/White - L/H Fog light
Grey/Violet - L/H Tail light
Blue/Red - L/H Brake Light

Lights R/H Rear

Brown - Negative
Blue/Yellow - R/H reverse light
Blue Red - (2 Wires/Diff Gauges) - R/H Brake Light (and feed for L/H Brake light)
Yellow/White - R/H Fog light
Grey/Yellow - R/H Tail light
Blue/Brown - R/H Indicator

Hope this helps if needed. Cheers :tea:

Well done, now go and do the front and don't forget the spot lights!

I carefully wrote it all down on a notepad but left it out and it got rained on, EricHolmes thread has some nice pictures of his wiring notes that I used so you can cross reference to check.
This information you be great to put together in a Tribute build pack.
Could also include
Fuel filler mod.
Door skin fitting.
Boot & door handles.
Door packers.

Front Lights wiring assist
 

Hi guys, I know the Z3 wiring is a bit easier to work through on the front, but here it is if required. (One of these below is side different to the Haynes manual for wiring colour, either they mixed it up when printed or my car was stuffed up with the wrong wire installed in the wrong side of the harness. Have checked more than twice and I know I am not colour blind so who knows!) NEG = Brown for standard -ve wiring.

L/H Front
Front Indicator - Blue Feed and NEG
Headlight Dip - Yellow/Green and NEG
Main Beam - White/Green and NEG
Sidelight/Pilot - Grey/Violet and NEG
Fog Light - Yellow/Brown and NEG
Side indicator - Blue/Green and NEG

R/H Front
Front Indicator - Blue Feed and NEG
Headlight Dip - Yellow/Blue and NEG
Main Beam - White/Blue and NEG
Sidelight/Pilot - Grey/Yellow and NEG
Fog Light - Yellow/Brown and NEG
Side indicator - Blue/Brn and NEG

R/H and L/H headlight adjusters are both Black/Brown/Yellow for 1/2/3 Posn.

Update on the kit, it arrived today. A few things straight away to sort with the guys back in Blighty, but great to have it in my hands under some sort of control! Keep you updated. Cheers.

:thumb:

I notice you have removed the rear ariel. I left my base in position and used a sharks fin style booster. Cut away most of the shark's fin leaving the base and amplifier. It has a single wire with a loop, this is simply screwed onto the base using the hole that the ariel screws into. Very surprised that I get excellent radio reception and all totally hidden.

How are you getting on? I suspect as you have had it a few days that it must almost be ready for paint:bolt:

Looking forward to your build and regular updates. I'd still be in the market for a convertible version if it should become available. Good luck with your build.

Hi Jag, great idea on the aerial, yes I removed it temporarily but it is still there wired in and was going to try to work an angle on it. Might have to try plagiarising your method as it sounds a good one! Kit has hit some reasonable snags that I am working thru hopefully in the next week or so with Chris and Dan, have to construct a plan. The kit unfortunately was sent missing items which need to be sorted and at present the roll cage/roof support doesn’t fit. I have a line of sight that may work, but failing that it may need remanufacture. Gutted it has started like this but I am sure won’t be the last of the challenges along the way. Keep you all updated when able to and making forward progress! Cheers.

Thanks LLM. As you will read above not the best start but once progressing I will make sure updates are flowing when they can. The “glossy feeling” has diminished a bit this week after the wait but as soon as I can get fitting items that will rush back! Cheers.

WelshKiwi – Sorry to hear you’ve had problems ‘out of the box’. :icon_sad:

I am planning to meet up with Kidge and his 275 next week for the first time.

Which lead me back to my first post on this thread back in Sep.17…

So I really hope I will be able to post similar comments about your car at the end of your build.

Good luck, Paul. :)

Hey thanks Paul. You always expect some challenges, but after all the planning and “replanning” you hope it doesn’t come at the first build hurdle! Spent about 4hrs yesterday meticulously removing micron after micron of metal. Not sorted yet but optimistic I may have a solution, it is going to take a while though at best in a home garage with no chance of the heavy engineering workshop it needs. Hoping the optimism continues!
I have been looking at Kidges car and liking it a lot. Certainly something to look forward to. Cheers!

In my experience with welded fabrications and fibreglass moulded parts often require some "heavy fitting" at the early stages. It will need more than just trimming a few microns here and there by the sound of it, don't be afraid to get stuck in if needed !

Thanks LLM, yeh you are right a bit of hard elbow grease will be required at stages. Just taking my time with the roof support as this is part of the certification process over here so it is tread very lightly. It is coming together slowly, I have been at it for another 5hrs today and it is starting to work. I do have angle of insertion issues with the roll bar, so once I can get them to go full insertion into the chassis tubes separately then I can try and play with the angles between them. At present they won’t insert into the chassis together.
Appreciate the good thoughts tho! Cheers.:tongue1:

I am presuming you are talking about where the roll cage drops into the vertical tubes in the car.
If they are slightly too close you can get a hydraulic body ram kit cheaply on eBay, amazing what they will move.
If it needs bringing in you could try using some heavy duty ratchet straps, again it is surprising how much pressure they can exert.

Yup you got it Jag. At present they are too far out at the insertion point. I have had them to line up with ratchet straps but they are not in alignment enough to insert more than about 30mm without jamming up. As you know they have to insert approx 270mm! Once I have them freely moving in and out seperately it at least gives me the starting point to work on alignment. At present they won’t insert fully on their own. I may find that it is just “spring” and aligning the lower end squares everything up. It may tho be that the stresses are coming from the top end so a bit more persuasion with heat may be required. Just have to wait and see but the good bit is I can strap the tubes so they start. Cheers.

I would suggest a couple of heavy ratchet straps and as they are under tension a few good hard taps with a sledge hammer.

That is the "heavy fitting" I was talking about ! Taking a few microns off here and there isn't the right approach. If you are sliding tubes together use some grease or anti sieze too.

Strengthening frame
 

Hi Kiwi

We had the same problem. When Chris was here trying to fit it, he blamed the car . . . but since you have the same trouble, it looks more like the jig / mule he is using.

I used a 40 grit sanding disc 115mm several / a lot of times and a couple of ratchet straps around the Z3 tubes.

After a while, at about two thirds to three quarters down, I decided the fit was ok. Got it powder coated [just to the top of the Z3 tubes]. The bottom of these tubes is open, so I only used a smear of grease and then seated the frame right down . . . never going to come out again. Took a bit of life out of my leather hammer, rubber shot hammer and a wooden mallet, even holding a bit of wood on the top tube, but the frame is ok now !

Rear mount holes needed a little adjustment . . .

All the best

Hi LLM, thanks for the inputs, but I am happy the right approach is being worked. An interference fit is an interference fit and if I employ the Geoff capes method then all that will happen is I will have a bare metal, non-painted roll cage jammed in the car. With how tight it is I will be able to pick the backend of the car up without pulling it out! I am not ready yet for that point or the heat differential method of fitting (I.e cooling/heating the seperate parts) To coin a phrase that we use a lot when fitting interference parts, “I could paint black hairs around it and it still won’t go in!” Ooh err! Read the next post you will see I have made some progress tonight. Cheers.

Hi Kidge, thanks so much for the info. That is pretty much what I am doing and also clearing/honing the chassis tubes as well. The good news is after 12 hrs of going at it I can get the tubes fully inserted separately, but it is still tight. So I will carry on to give me a bit more clearance around both tubes which should help then making the alignment problem a bit easier. They are dropping at a slight angle so a bit of spot heating on the tubes may be required to straighten them up together. Just have to patiently truck on an work through it.
I am going to spray it once completed, I am staying away from powder coating now.
To give you an idea of spring in the tubes, I can ratchet them from 1006mm static to about 990mm fully loaded so plenty of wiggle room. 12hrs in on this so far!
Pity tho that you had issues and now this one as well. Could be right with the mule or could be the method of construction/heat in areas when placed in car is pulling the cold form in the wrong direction. Cheers, loving your car by the way!

Well, as Chris is going to build The Z3gato he will have to deal with this issue if it is the mule that is out.

I've not seen the item (so forgive me if this is a daft idea) but could it just be cut in the middle (or to one side), trimmed and slotted into place and re-welded?
ETA, if that's it in #94, then I'd just slice and re-weld!

Hi Mitchelkitman, fair thoughts and I have already asked that question with the cert guy who is dealing with it over here. Truth is he doesn’t know if that is doable without further advice and it may render the main hoop needing being remade. Trying the softly approach first, I have managed to get the tubes fully inserted tonight, when fitted together about 50mm insertion, so i am clearing a bit more gap and then working on the alignment. Hope it doesn’t get to the point of cut/weld or remanufacture. Cheers!

Ah.... regulations. It shouldn't (surely?) make any difference because it isn't part of the original structure - but when does logic come in to regulations? Done well, and repainted, nobody need know (unless they x-rayed it), but I understand your concern.

Here in NZ there is the "Targa" road race with max speed 200km/h, which requires cars to be both road legal and comply to motorsport regulations. The wording of the Low Volume Vehicle regulations makes this type of roof support (not specifically described) very close to a roll cage (which are described in detail) so certifiers get a bit nervous :twitch:.

Wouldn't the tensioners on the seatbelt still work when you remove the airbag?