The radiator is back in the car, I have made some aluminium pipe connectors to replace the temporary joiners I had used which were close to popping off. They have served their purpose and were only ever intended to be to get it to the MOT.
The main issues I detected on my 100 mile round trip to the MOT are as follows:
1 - The steering wheel is too low and needs turning one spline to the left to be straight. This causes me discomfort because in 5th gear I can't lift my knee high enough to relax, resulting in severe cramps.
2 - The engine 'gasps' badly under heavy acceleration.
3 - The engine refuses to start when hot. Takes about 30 mins to cool sufficiently to re-start.
4 - Tick over is too fast but the adjustment screws are fully backed off.
1 - I haven't dealt with 1 yet. Need to resolve the engine issues first. The solution is to remove the spacers I fitted to lower the steering wheel. However I may need to adjust the lower dash to allow the column to rise.
2 - I have found the original SD1 air filter housing and fittings. I have fitted them, the acceleration 'grasp' is now gone, it accelerates impressively and smoothly, it pulls very well as one would expect.
3 - I have fitted a lower temp thermostat, 82ºC, although I think the engine is actually running hotter now than it was on the MOT run. The 'new' thermostat may not be opening as wide at the previous one which was 88ºC, despite opening at a lower temp.
I plan to monitor the temperatures of the carb float bowls to experience and discover at what temperature it refuses to start. After todays run the rocker covers were 85ºC and the float bowls were 65ºC, I understand ethanol can boil/vaporise at 78ºC They are separated by about 12mm of air. I was also concerned to discover that the fuel pipe was 45ºC despite being at least a foot away from the exhaust. That supports suggestions for a full return circuit system and insulating the pipes in the engine bay. Some rethinking in this area may be called for. I am planning for heat shielding of the carbs and insulation of the fuel pipes, with the possible novel provision of a water jet screen wash directed at the float bowls to cool them with water if the need arrises.
I am also intending to create the louvers in the engine side panels, although I feel it may help, I believe the problem needs solving at root as much as possible first, getting the carbs isolated and controlling their temp is I feel the key to the solution.
I still believe the carbs are cooled by the Venturi effect while the engine is running but they will absorb heat very quickly once the engine has stopped. I plan to monitor temps while the car is being driven. I need to understand what is going on temp wise.
4 - The carbs need servicing, with new throttle spindles, bushes and seals. I believe the inability to set the tick over to be adjusted is a combination of wear and drawing air through the worn spindle bushes and missing seals.
I plan to start an 'on the road' thread once I have overcome these teething problems. The car is nice to drive and certainly turns heads. I am sure not having a windscreen at all is better than having a windscreen without door windows. It's windy but does not have the buffeting I have experienced with just a windscreen.
Having read in another thread that the Metro servo is inadequate, I can only say that last night I tried a high speed (50MPH?) heavy brake, I easily locked the front wheels on a dry, very grippy tar and chip road, the car pulled up with little drama, leaving two big black lines on the road.
I need to do something about ground clearance... I need a set of standard springs!
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