Check out this link showing paint defects, causes and fixes. Standox is a professional product, but anyone can go buy it. The defects are relative to any 2k paint, so it is good for general reference. You will all identify some of these defects, professional and amateur alike.
I've got a set of fibreglass race bike fairings I've prepped and started painting, so will show flatting techniques and clear over base application in 2k over the next week. Not quite a Tribute, but will give an idea.
Cellulose has its place (somewhere) and I don't think we are looking at waterbase basecoats here as that needs plenty of airflow and a booth is really needed.
Anyway, if you are balancing the cellulose versus 2k, then the only part of the better (2k) application is for the lacquer or direct gloss which can be just a tack coat followed by a full wet coat if you use a high solid type. It's just as easy to apply as cellulose, you can block any runs out the next day as it cures hard and it can be wet flatted and buffed if your cautious and don't want to risk any sags or runs. Have to be careful not to polish through though!
Regular 2k is generally a Medium Solid paint, which you can add slightly more thinners, which you may need to flow out or achieve a flatter finish.
Don't call a paint sprayer a paint sprayer. They are technically a 'vehicle refinisher' These days. Look at the many cars out there with factory finish being slightly orange peel to high end polished type finishes. These chaps and some ladies have to match that finish and it is done by percentage of thinners used and also speed of the spray gun travelling over the panel, with also fluid tip adjusting. You can't learn this on a one-off, but you should be able to achieve a decent finish.
http://www.standox.com/content/dam/E...Defects_GB.pdf