Quote:
Originally Posted by Stuart
I have had a failure of my pedal box involving the weld for the clutch pedal mount, it has let go and now the clutch pedal twists when you depress it.
Not sure if anyone else has had this issue yet but it is something worth looking at and maybe some beefing up around the pedal mount would be advised.
Whilst my pedal box is out for repair I have decided to fit the new dual servo and have a few questions.
I have disc brakes all round and my original master cylinder (I believe this to be a BMW unit) has only two outlets one for front and one for back brakes.
1. What master cylinder should I get to fit the new servo only giving me 2 outlets?
2. Do i need a valve inline with back brakes to give me a offset?
3. do i need any other parts other than the adapter plate and clevis supplied with the servo?
4. The clutch pedal was connected using the furthest away hole which I believe to make the pedal a lot harder to press, can I use the first hole and would I get enough travel to release the clutch if I do?
Thanks Stuart
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Hi Stuart
Ref 3 & 4:
3. Check how well your servo clevis lines up with your brake pedal. Having seen how one of our group just bolted it up, without checking the alignment, I would advise making sure it can align without placing a sideways pressure into the servo. If yours lines up when you offer it up - great. If it clearly does not, then I would suggst changing the clevis for a rose joint, which will accomodate any miss alignment.
See thread 636 below.
4. Are you using the standard E36 clutch master cylinder. I hooked mine up to the top hole first, and found it was a very hard clutch, and required very little travel before it parted. (It is easy to test by putting the car in gear with the engine off, and then ask someone to turn a rear wheel whilst you slowly depress the clutch). This will tell you how much of your clutch travel you actually need. I swapped to the lower hole and it was noticably easier, and the travel was normal.
......but every Marlin is different!
Mike