Hi Nick,
As Rich says, I went with a rose-joint and bolt option. I used a high-tensile socket screw with, as he mentioned, the head ground down to lower its profile. The reason for this arrangement was that it allowed me to get more spacers under the joint and raise it as high as possible. I used a laser pointer projecting from the wheel onto a screen to plot the toe angle through the suspension travel and found that with this arrangement I could all-but eliminate the bump steer. And the end result is that there are no longer any lift-off change-of-pants moments. As you can see on the photos below there isn't a lot of clearance to the wheel though - put it this way, I had to move the wheel balance weights further into the rim to stop them fouling...
I realise it looks a bit in the second photo as if there is a corresponding groove worn in the rim but this is the shape of the rim (I just had to go out and check against the front wheels to be sure) and the fact that the joint stops brake dust building up on this bit!
Richard
