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Old 20th December 2009, 15:09
DavidH DavidH is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Saxmundham,Suffolk
Posts: 167
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Yeah I had to make a loom from scratch, and made sure left and right side and dipped were seperated, so a fuse blowing only knocks out one side. Rover used high current switch's hence Marlins orginal design not using much in the way of relays, however when I designed the loom I went down the relay route for all Lights and Horn's so as to be donor independant. The Hazards were the trikey part as you need to design that for the switch and relay you plan to use. I used a standard Halfords flasher relay 8 in the end, a generic switch 10 a diode and standard relay to make it all work, when I remembered the diode (to stop back flow through the bulb in switch) it worked great. I designed the whole loom as independant from the engine option e.g. I have an engine bay loom used Rover fusebox which only required 4 wires to the front. And a dash/lights etc loom that controls all other functions, the only cross links being for the alarm to control the lights and horn on locking and unlocking. So I have a seperate fuse/relay box (generic) in the passenger footwell.

I also have put in extra front to back earthing capacity rather than relying on the chassis although it is earthbonded at fuel tank (IVA REQUIREMENT) and the engine and fuel filler as metal and isolated from tank by hose (IVA REQUIREMENT)

Mark did have a copy of my design at one time as he was going to use it moving forwards, although I have made some mod's since to improve it.

Best of luck, especially cost wise. Mine cost about 300 to make I'd estimate but it was much more conventional than the previous design on wire ratings and circuit isolation, as I was willing to forgo some weight for a design that suited my needs. BTW go for thin-wall insulated wire, you can increase current without wieght considerably by this route.


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