Here are the photo instructions for the left side. The right side is much the same.
Identify the tie-bar. It is the whitish curvy bar going from the bottom of the wheel hub into a rubber gator.
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Next remove the metal clips at each end of the rubber gator. On mine I could just pull the end up and it undid, a bit like opening a tin can with a pull ring.
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Pull tha gator carefully towards the wheen end to expose the tie bar. Note the hex nut effect on the back of the ball joint, just before the shiney silver shaft. Thsi is what you are going to undo.
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On both sides of the car it took a bit of a heave with a set of grips to break the fix and then I could undo it by hand
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Now move the gator carefully back towards the engine end and try the rusty looking bolt.
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A squirt of WD40 and a 16mm spanner and it comes free quite easily which was a real pleasant surprise
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A quick tap on the head of the thread and it drops free. Line it up next to the old one to get it approximately the right length. You will need to get the alignment done immediately after this so don't worry too much.
20161125_113335 by
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Slide the gator over the new tie rod having checked for splits and replaced if torn. Fit the engine end of the new rod and then carefully secure the gator over the specifically designed mounts with zip ties.
20161125_114114 by
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At the wheel end it is worth rubbing it over with a wire brush to remove the old crud and generally clean up. The new tie rod for me came with a 17mm nut. You need to put some upward pressure on the joint to be able to tighten the new nut which I found easiest with a car jack.
20161125_114331 by
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All easy stuff. now onto the other wishbone bushing. Expect fire!