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Old 25th June 2020, 17:40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bellicose View Post
Ö Then be ready to take a mould off my lovely new car.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bellicose View Post
Ö reason to make it thicker was I can use that as an actual body afterwards (once foam is removed from inside)
Bellicose Ė Please donít think Iím nitpicking, but you appear to be describing two different things.

If you want to take a mould of the shape to make a new part, you are building what is called a Ďbuckí.
In which case, the shape you create becomes the mould and you would build it in reverse.
See Mister Towed making a buck for his dash from Post #96 here:
http://www.madabout-kitcars.com/foru...?t=6672&page=5

But, if Iíve understood you correctly, you are actually building the final body shell shape.
In which case, the first thing to consider is how thick the final layers of matting and filler will be.
Because you will need to remove that distance from your foam shape before you start.
Otherwise, if your foam aligns with your ideal wheel arch distance, your final body shell will be wider.



The approach you are describing of fibreglass matting and filler is what I used to make my scuttle from scratch.





Here is an example of me using cling film over foam for my fibreglass bonnet bulge.







I also used parcel tape on beer cans to male tail pipe cut outs.





Before I started my build, Iíve never used fibreglass before.

Unfortunately, I had a LOT of practise working with fibreglass during my build.

The old saying is true, that the more you practise, the easier it gets.

Is there a small piece you could start on first?

If not, just make something up to practise on.

I posted my beginnerís approach to working with fibreglass here:
http://www.madabout-kitcars.com/foru...postcount=1132

There are several build threads on here that cover fibreglass worth that are well worth a read.

Good luck, Paul.
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