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Go Back   Madabout Kitcars Forum > Mad Build Area > Marlin 5exi builds

Marlin 5exi builds Calling all you sexi builders....sorry 5exi builders, show us your progress.

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  #1  
Old 29th June 2009, 21:41
paulsul paulsul is offline
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Default lower engine stabiliser / driveshaft failure

Hi Guys.
Has anyone experienced the lower engine stabiliser ripping itself off the chassis tube?
I am running a VVC and the Marlin supplied lower stabiliser which is a piece of threaded rod with a ball joint each end, is bolted directly to the sump and a 1/4" bracket welded to the chasis tube with no strengthening.
This bracket has ripped away from the tube causing the engine to rotate under torque and subsquently allowing the driveshaft to seperate from the inner cv joint. Luckily I was doing about 10mph at the time and no additional damage was caused.
Not being happy with the design when I built the car, I carried on with the build assuming that the design "must be ok".
I am now beefing up the affected area of the chassis tube and considering installing a bushed stabiliser (as per Rover).
I am also considering moving the engine mounts back about 10mm to reduce the acute angle that the driveshafts are currently running at.
Does any one envisage any problems with my proposals, or has anyone else done any mods along the same lines?
Cheers
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  #2  
Old 29th June 2009, 22:00
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alackofspeed alackofspeed is offline
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I slated the "design" a while back, whilst others seemed to think it is fine.

http://www.madabout-kitcars.com/foru...t=engine+mount
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Old 30th June 2009, 14:39
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Hi Paul.

That thread rod done very little on the T series engine. Even after installing this bar, the engine would rock. And look at how it went! The middle one. This was bolted to lower gearbox to chassis lower cross member:


Bracket on chassis was welded on by Marlin when it went to have the body fitted.

Ended up beefing up the cam side mount stabiliser to the suspension turrent.

As for the driveshafts. These was a problem trying to get these right for the T series. Fix was diesel drive shafts both sides and different mounts to loose the acute angle a bit. Never caused any problems after that.

Saying that. I never heard of any of the VVC guys having any problems.
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Old 30th June 2009, 16:04
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eaa53 eaa53 is offline
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Angry Engine Mount

I never fitted that lower support as a solid connection would transmit vibration and I judged it inadequate to do the job.

I would have uploaded picture to show my solution but the web site is down and the Laptop with the originals on is not working either at this time!
There is a thread on it if you look back when the site is back up the picture will display.

So a description will have to do, the site should be up tomorrow if you need the visual.

In my case with a VVC engine and a replacement rear ‘brace/frame’, I used the original Rover mounting and bolted it straight back on to the replacement frame. This provided a 10-15 degree tilt on the engine (within design parameters for the engine ) with the Rover original rubber mount to remove the vibration and mounted to the gear box on its original bolt holes, a very secure attachment.

This arrangement gives a little extra straightness to the drive shafts and a very solid rubber mount connection.

You could do the same and reinforce your original rear frame at the same time. There is a school of thought that suggests that the original frame should be welded in place anyway, which is almost how the new chassis are supplied from Marlin..

If you want a straight original threaded bar with mini ball joints on, I have a new one unused…..!



The thread is there and the pictures show...
http://www.madabout-kitcars.com/foru...3067#post13067

Should give you the idea of what I did.

Last edited by eaa53; 30th June 2009 at 16:12.. Reason: Added detail
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  #5  
Old 30th June 2009, 22:04
paulsul paulsul is offline
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Thanks for your input guys.
Typically, i kept loads of bits from the donor since the build, but chucked them all when i moved house. (smaller garage, no room etc)
I am now on thr hunt for another bushed stabiliser and will fabricate new brackets to attach to the chassis tube. That threaded rod idea is useless.
I have also made the decision to move the engine back by 15mm.
The bracket where the engine hangs (the gearbox side) was an easy fix. I have cut out the strengthening gusset on the rear part and re-bent it , in effect opening the distance between the two halves by the 15mm. Installed a spacer of the same dimension between the front part of the bracket and the engine mount and re-welded the gusset, adding an additional gusset to the lower half of the bracket for added strength. This will, i think assist in reducing deflection of the bracket under torque.
I will tackle the other mount tommorrow by extending the platform back enough to re-drill for the engine mount, obviously by 15mm.
I will let you know what the result is after thursday.
I have the car booked in for it's second MOT. I can't believe it's 12 months since i put it on the road.
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Old 30th June 2009, 22:27
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paulsul, are you sure your car needs an mot? My car was registered on an age-related plate, 04 in my case, and I didn't need an mot to buy my second tax disc. Your car is on an age-plate, but "new at first registration" too?
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Old 30th June 2009, 23:02
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With regards the MOT. I just assumed it would need an MOT every year.
How do i find out if it needs one or not. I taxed it before the MOT expired so that is no problem.
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Old 30th June 2009, 23:13
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Did it say on your tax renewal that you required a mot? If it says on your V5 "new at first registration", and that was within the last 3 years, you don't require an mot. I got pulled by the police for "not having an mot", and got a 7-day-wonder. When I went into the station the officer there said "I don't understand why you were given a producer, your car doesn't need an mot until 2011".
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Old 1st July 2009, 07:34
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Paul

In reply I have the 1600K series, and although I have not rippeed out the engine mounting at the rear, I have torn the top mounting, which now has two thick washers over to stop this.

I too have the Marlin fixed direct to chasis setup and as was previously mentined does seem to transmit some viabration through the chassis, I have thoughts of changing this setup to a bushed mount, via an additional bar accross the rear of the car.

I am just embarking on an engine change to the 1800VVC, so maybe an oppotune time to make the changes.

It will be good to hear how you get on.
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Old 2nd July 2009, 22:53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alackofspeed View Post
Did it say on your tax renewal that you required a mot? If it says on your V5 "new at first registration", and that was within the last 3 years, you don't require an mot. I got pulled by the police for "not having an mot", and got a 7-day-wonder. When I went into the station the officer there said "I don't understand why you were given a producer, your car doesn't need an mot until 2011".
I had a SORN on the car and taxed it before the MOT expired in June, so did not get a tax reminder.
I will have to check what it says on my V5.
i had to cancel the MOT today as i run out of time. Have now moved the engine back 15mm and sideways to the nearside. Also fitted the cast bracket
to the sump to take new stabiliser. I have fiied the bushed upper stabiliser from the Rover as this is shorter, and fabricated a box section type bracket and welded to the lower chassis tube.
Lots of fabrication, welding and painting today but alas no time for MOT.
I hope all this work will be worth it and will let you know after testing.
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