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Go Back   Madabout Kitcars Forum > Mad Build Area > Tribute Automotive Builds

Tribute Automotive Builds Discuss your Tribute kit build

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  #2021  
Old 29th March 2015, 15:16
Scottie22 Scottie22 is offline
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Triumph engines are so reliable I will never ever have a problem Rene!
Seriously though, Chris gave me the option of a flip front, but I chose what I have now instead.

I still am not sure if I made the right choice, but as the freshly deflowered virgin once said "its too late now"

Having said that, the bonnet opening is large enough easily for the engine to be removed. And access is fairly good above and below.

Oddly enough, Mick O'Malley, who is building the D Type version A352, opted for a non-flip front as well, then changed his mind,
and has converted to flip!

At the stage I'm at now though, I'll live with it.

See what I mean?

[IMG][/IMG]
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  #2022  
Old 29th March 2015, 20:45
reneanglia reneanglia is offline
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Talking

There must be room enough to remove the engine with the bonnet removed.
Not that i doubt the quality of a Triumph engine but you never know..........
As my dreams about a new build are now switching between a Miglia/Sammio or A325 i let my thoughts go over future snags and problems and how to solve them.
For both builds you need a Spitfire and use the bulkhead,floor and other sheetmetal parts.....i am not so keen using these parts as they are build and bonded into the GRP bodyshell,as we all know GRP does'nt rust and Triumph sheetmetal will rust,as a matter of fact i'll think Triumph invented rust as i see some potential doner cars.
I like the idea of building my own removable stainless or alloy frame and fix the body only to this frame so it would be possible to remove.
The front does'nt have to flip but will be seperated from the body bolted to the frame,for maintenance the bonnet will be used and in case of major repares the whole front can be unbolted and removed.
If i build a Miglia or A325 this way i will have less rust issiues and virtually a car that last for ages.
There will be a lot of thinking and problem solving to do about this,i even have to wear a chrashhelmet as i have to do so much headscratching i will end up with a hole in my skull............
René
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  #2023  
Old 29th March 2015, 23:30
Scottie22 Scottie22 is offline
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Yes Rene, a stainless or alloy frame would be ideal for you.

In my case I was very lucky to find a donor Spitfire which not only was 44 years old, but was virtually totally rust-free.
A very rare animal indeed.
I am confident that I will never have any rust issues in the future, as I have further treated the remaining metal parts on my car, so they will remain in good condition. And of course the fibre glass and alluminium should last a fair while too.
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  #2024  
Old 30th March 2015, 00:09
8 Valve Ed 8 Valve Ed is offline
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You could always hot-dip galvanise it, after all mods are done of course... Then it would last at least 30 years with no maintenance.

Trouble with aluminium is age hardening and work induced cracks. Stainless would be hard to work, heavy and expensive! Building cars to last was never easy.

What's really needed is good steel. I remember Austin Seven main chassis rails almost never rusted, the rest of the car fell apart around the central chassis. That steel seemed to last forever, without any signs of rot.

My original 1949 Land Rover chassis was perfect with no signs of rust in about 1974 or so? I believe there is a 'better' perhaps purer steel, they just don't use it any more. Wrought Iron didn't tend to rust heavily either.
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  #2025  
Old 30th March 2015, 08:58
casamolino casamolino is offline
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Morning Scottie have not commented on your build for some time , but that interior is brilliant , you must be so pleased , Geoff .
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  #2026  
Old 30th March 2015, 09:05
Scottie22 Scottie22 is offline
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You are right Ed, I agree with what you are saying.

At one stage several years ago I had an Alpha Romeo, and at that point the steel they used was abysmal rubbish, and the car almost rusted away before I got it home!

In my earlier post to Rene, I forgot to mention that my donor Spitfire also came with a freshly installed re-conditioned engine, which I have re-serviced, and should be good for a long while.
So I was double-whammy lucky donor-wise.
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  #2027  
Old 30th March 2015, 09:09
Scottie22 Scottie22 is offline
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Morning to you Geoff, thanks for the positive words!

Yes of course I am pleased with the interior, lots of extra work, but I think worth it.
Cannot imagine how Steve McQueen opted for such a bland car interior himself, the coolest bloke in the world maybe, but taste was in short supply!
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  #2028  
Old 30th March 2015, 09:46
Mick O'Malley Mick O'Malley is offline
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Default Flip Front

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottie22 View Post
Oddly enough, Mick O'Malley, who is building the D Type version A352, opted for a non-flip front as well, then changed his mind,
and has converted to flip!
Hi Scottie

Great interior!

I didn't actually 'opt' for anything, as I wasn't offered an option!

I thought about a removable rather than flip conversion, but rejected it as I'm a stickler for fluid checks and wanted them easily performed. The front only lifts about 30° but this is sufficient as I have a header tank by the fuse box. I'll post a piccy or two once my latest film has been D'd & P'd.

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  #2029  
Old 30th March 2015, 13:15
Scottie22 Scottie22 is offline
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Thanks for that Mick.
With only a 30 degree lift, is an engine out action possible, or would you just take the front right off?
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  #2030  
Old 30th March 2015, 14:00
Mick O'Malley Mick O'Malley is offline
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Exclamation Flippin' Front!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottie22 View Post
Thanks for that Mick.
With only a 30 degree lift, is an engine out action possible, or would you just take the front right off?
Just take the whole front off. It's held at its front end by four M6 bolts which connect it to the hinges. The only pain would be the wiring as I bought the fancy twist together connectors shown on the Sammio side but cannot see how wires can possibly be either soldered or crimped to them, so I'm stuck with terminal blocks for the moment.
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  #2031  
Old 30th March 2015, 20:00
landmannnn landmannnn is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8 Valve Ed View Post
You could always hot-dip galvanise it, after all mods are done of course... Then it would last at least 30 years with no maintenance.

Trouble with aluminium is age hardening and work induced cracks. Stainless would be hard to work, heavy and expensive! Building cars to last was never easy.

What's really needed is good steel. I remember Austin Seven main chassis rails almost never rusted, the rest of the car fell apart around the central chassis. That steel seemed to last forever, without any signs of rot.

My original 1949 Land Rover chassis was perfect with no signs of rust in about 1974 or so? I believe there is a 'better' perhaps purer steel, they just don't use it any more. Wrought Iron didn't tend to rust heavily either.
My 1925 Citroen steelwork is still almost perfect. Unlike my Navara (a lot younger!) I can undo virtually any nut with an open ended spanner without any chance of rounding the nut.
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  #2032  
Old 30th March 2015, 21:02
Scottie22 Scottie22 is offline
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Default Monday

Today I intended to do both of the windscreen support covers, However,
there was more to it than I thought, and I never got both done.

I did work for 9 hours though, and just managed the one, but the other ought to be faster now I'm practiced at it!

I may have gone a bit wild with the rivets, but I'll live with that, and the other side will be the same.

pics:


[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]
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  #2033  
Old 31st March 2015, 07:32
Mick O'Malley Mick O'Malley is offline
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Thumbs up

'Like'
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  #2034  
Old 31st March 2015, 07:36
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Mister Towed Mister Towed is online now
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Looking good Scottie. What will you do if someone offers to buy it for a substantial sum once it's finished?

The day I drove my Spyder home from the MOT I was made a serious off of a straight swap for a brand-new Astra (about £18,000 worth), but kindly declined the offer. Could you?
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  #2035  
Old 31st March 2015, 07:50
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Paul L Paul L is offline
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Scottie - That is a very impressive bit of metal shaping.

It also adds to the "layers" of detail, which in turn add to the overall effect.

Good luck, Paul.
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  #2036  
Old 31st March 2015, 08:22
8 Valve Ed 8 Valve Ed is offline
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Very tidy Scottie, looks neat and in keeping.

Stoneleigh here I come?
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  #2037  
Old 31st March 2015, 09:11
jones jones is offline
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Good work Scottie - I doth my cap! Good skills.
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  #2038  
Old 31st March 2015, 09:25
Scottie22 Scottie22 is offline
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Thanks for all the good word fellahs! I do appreciate it.

Mr Towed, ref your inquiry, several people have asked me exactly the same question, and I have given a lot of thought to it, and I believe I would follow your example.

You have something very unique, ( we are talking cars here!)
and at my builds end, so will I.

If we were to give in and swap/sell, I think we would forever regret it.

In my earlier post of the finished panel, I forgot to add that regardless of the 30+ rivets in it, it is held on to the body with just two self tappers, top and lower side, so it only takes 15 seconds to remove.

Last edited by Scottie22; 31st March 2015 at 09:28..
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  #2039  
Old 31st March 2015, 09:41
garyh garyh is offline
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Here you go, Scottie.
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  #2040  
Old 31st March 2015, 09:44
garyh garyh is offline
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You might like this as well.
http://www.jdclassics.co.uk/pdfs/JDC...JaguarXKSS.pdf
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