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Go Back   Madabout Kitcars Forum > Mad Build Area > Sammio Builds and discussions

Sammio Builds and discussions Sammio bodied car builds and specials

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  #41  
Old 8th January 2012, 19:10
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Default shocks

We must add the the old coil overs are there just so we will be able to move the car a nice man from AVO said that he would make the new coil overs once the car was finished if we gave him the ride heights now the finished weight and the height we wanted to run at and all for about 90 (from memory) a corner.
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  #42  
Old 26th February 2012, 07:33
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Default inspiration!

Went to Race Retro on Friday with Madmark we are members of the Classic Touring Car Club. Did some meet and greets on the stand and got to have a good look around the show.

Now fired up to get going again on the G46 came back with boxes of nuts, bolts, washers, split pins etc etc and more importantly supper thin angle grinder blades, God I love an auto-jumble and on that point off to Ardingley this morning (South of England show ground) for another auto jumble I have a list of wants.

Weather helps as well.

Saw some lovely door hinges on the Europa Spares stand but nigh on 50 a pair, have you had any further development to hinging the G46 doors Gary?

Cracking morning here in Surrey got to be a car day whether inside or in a garage.

Expect to read reports of everyone's progress this evening.
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  #43  
Old 26th February 2012, 07:34
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or even outside!
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  #44  
Old 26th February 2012, 08:04
WorldClassAccident WorldClassAccident is offline
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I am doing my best to catch you up. You old engine is still in the back of the truck buy I have fitted your dizzy and carb to my engine. Need to get the engine running to check the gear box, sides are being welded next weekend and then it is off to Gary for the body work.

Race you to the road!!!
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  #45  
Old 26th February 2012, 08:31
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I think you are going to win!
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  #46  
Old 25th March 2012, 22:09
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Default First cut is the deepest!

Or as Charlie says fortune favours the brave!!!!!!!! lets get cutting

[IMG][/IMG]

We by cutting back the rear bulkhead by 200mm

[/IMG]

This is lifting the section out after cutting.

[IMG][/IMG]

We cut the excess from the rear door shut and have fitted a rear filler and dry screwed the door section back into the car, we intend to glue it all up after the dry fit, remove the screws and then fibreglass mat the rear of the panel.

[IMG][/IMG]

These are the rear round wheel arches, lots of marking up planning etc etc, we are please with the outcome, we first strapped the front and back of the arch with S/S ties as we were removing the lip and are surprised how firm the panel has remained. We need a detail for the edge some form of wire bead fixed around arch and filled, any suggestions of pointers in the right direct would be welcome.

[IMG][/IMG]

The tape lines are where we are going to form a recess under the door so the side exhausts run within the cill area.

[IMG][/IMG]

Final job this afternoon was to cut the bonnet aperture into the front flip section. Had considered the consequences if we got it wrong, but were pleased in the end with the result.
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  #47  
Old 25th March 2012, 22:15
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Wow, now that's an ambitious project...
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  #48  
Old 25th March 2012, 22:17
WorldClassAccident WorldClassAccident is offline
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I have finally decided not to move the cab back but will be rounding the wheel arches. Take lots of photos and comments on problems you overcame please.

Here is sort of the look I am aiming at. G46 with a windscreen and double humps


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  #49  
Old 25th March 2012, 22:17
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Default Further photos

[IMG][/IMG]

side view showing front section temp fixing

[IMG][/IMG]

proposal for rounding off front wheel arch.

[IMG][/IMG]


View showing the rear quarter of the car

Just hope we can stick it all back together again.

happy building all
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  #50  
Old 26th March 2012, 07:29
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Why O why O why, do old motors including my cordite base only come with two wheel nuts per wheel O well, I've got a stash of 1mm disc blades for when I get the body shell so will be interested in how you'll be sticking the sections back together, Pat
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  #51  
Old 26th March 2012, 07:53
garyh garyh is offline
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i like the bonnet, do you still keep flip front as well? garyh.
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  #52  
Old 26th March 2012, 08:16
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Round arches are definitely the way to go: that picture of the back end with the wire wheel offered up and the 'shoes' lurking in the corner looks like it will end up as pretty as the Spyder (almost), quite a feat given the much bigger dimensions.
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  #53  
Old 26th March 2012, 09:30
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Very nice!
That's the first time i've seen one of those bodies in a dark colour (albeit it being the black primer top coat!) and i do have to say that it shows the lines off a lot better than the white primer.
What's the current thought about the colour you're going to paint it?
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  #54  
Old 26th March 2012, 11:08
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Looking good CT. You tread bravely ahead where other fear to go..

Any chance you could post a picture with a seat and driver in place to get an idea of how high one would sit above the door tops?
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  #55  
Old 26th March 2012, 18:52
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Default Various

Pat- 1mm cutting discs essential best innovation since expanding foam and cable ties.

Garyh - no the front flip (or as the yanks say "clip") is permanently fixed the only access being through the bonnet, however there is so much room in front of the engine that you can stand in there and work on the engine.

Mister Towed - They are my feet (Peter) in the shoes, not trusted with a camera yet, hopefully she will be a beauty as pretty as her older / little sister the the spyder.

Davecymru - yes the body looks far better in a dark colour our gel coats id "Sunseeker Blue" I believe. Do not ask the final colour as that will be the hardest decision to make we currently have at least 20 colour combinations that we like the chopping up and rebuilding is easy, I dread having to choose the colour!

housemartin - Top of the doors and rear bulkhead are approx 600mm above top chassis rail may be able to drop below the chassis rail but space limited because it was only the footwell for the rear seats, may be able to get 450mm sq seat in there but will be tight. What height is in the spyder with and without the sunken footwells. The seating position with this type of car in the day was always "on top" rather than "in"
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  #56  
Old 26th March 2012, 18:52
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Nice work CT The rear quarter looks just right. I intend shifting the doors back 5" as that is how far back my gearstick has moved with my engine/gearbox swap. I am going to cut around the rear of the door opening as you have done but will extend the horizontal cut forwards below the door then up vertically about an inch to the rear of the bulkhead/bonnet joint. After cutting a 5" strip out of the rear deck the whole lot will slide back leaving a gap between the front bulkhead and the dashboard. As I am going to use a mg midget windscreen the scuttle top between the bonnet and the dashboard area will have to be reformed anyway. Doing the cutting this way will let me use the kit doors as there are.
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  #57  
Old 26th March 2012, 19:18
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Default a different way!

Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewhush View Post
Nice work CT The rear quarter looks just right. I intend shifting the doors back 5" as that is how far back my gearstick has moved with my engine/gearbox swap. I am going to cut around the rear of the door opening as you have done but will extend the horizontal cut forwards below the door then up vertically about an inch to the rear of the bulkhead/bonnet joint. After cutting a 5" strip out of the rear deck the whole lot will slide back leaving a gap between the front bulkhead and the dashboard. As I am going to use a mg midget windscreen the scuttle top between the bonnet and the dashboard area will have to be reformed anyway. Doing the cutting this way will let me use the kit doors as there are.

Excellent way of doing it wish I had thought of that, I have however relied on the steel side cills to support the body in one way or another as we are chopping. You are using Rover V8 ? I have not checked to distance set back for the gear stick in relation to the driving position just hoping it will be manageable, opps!

We also still intent to use the kit doors as they are, we have yet to move the front bufflehead back.

I still want to use the cut down screen but can see the logic in a windscreen I will watch your development of this with interest.

When are you planning to make the first cut!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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  #58  
Old 27th March 2012, 07:25
volospian volospian is offline
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I think I see what you mean with the exhausts now. Running them down a recess in the bodywork. That's what I was thinking of too, a la C-Type, but, as I said, I was thinking of a single side exit (although I don't know it that's feasible yet, depending on pipe routing....)
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  #59  
Old 27th March 2012, 07:30
andrewhush andrewhush is offline
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Nope, going smaller/lighter rather than larger/lighter. Engine is out of a nissan primera egt. Gearbox is a 5-speed sierra type 9. The body is still hanging from the ceiling while I check that the engine runs. I have had this engine many years but have never had it running. Today's job is to pick out the essential wiring from approx 20kg of nissan wiring loom to run it with the original set up. If there are no nasty noises I am considering going with 4 separate throttle bodies like the caterham people do as this will be a more compact and tuneable arrangement than the huge manifold/plenum that the nissan came with. I have set the steering wheel position back in line with the gearstick by grafting a herald column which is tubular onto the scimitar upper column which my mate Fred turned down and shortened to suit. A flat machined on the turned down section allows the use of the triumph clamp/grub screw arrangement hat will allow the overall length to be adjusted as on a herald.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg column 1.JPG (92.3 KB, 49 views)
File Type: jpg column 2.JPG (83.7 KB, 39 views)
File Type: jpg column 3.JPG (61.1 KB, 37 views)
File Type: jpg sr20 + type 9.jpg (70.9 KB, 42 views)

Last edited by andrewhush; 27th March 2012 at 07:50..
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  #60  
Old 27th March 2012, 09:11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewhush View Post
Nope, going smaller/lighter rather than larger/lighter. Engine is out of a nissan primera egt. Gearbox is a 5-speed sierra type 9. The body is still hanging from the ceiling while I check that the engine runs. I have had this engine many years but have never had it running. Today's job is to pick out the essential wiring from approx 20kg of nissan wiring loom to run it with the original set up. If there are no nasty noises I am considering going with 4 separate throttle bodies like the caterham people do as this will be a more compact and tuneable arrangement than the huge manifold/plenum that the nissan came with. I have set the steering wheel position back in line with the gearstick by grafting a herald column which is tubular onto the scimitar upper column which my mate Fred turned down and shortened to suit. A flat machined on the turned down section allows the use of the triumph clamp/grub screw arrangement hat will allow the overall length to be adjusted as on a herald.
Very impressive I am afraid old technology for me, I would have to have an auto electrician on stand by for yours.

I suppose you get the same problem with a four pot as a V8 the engine sits back a lot further than the V6, love the chassis
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