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Go Back   Madabout Kitcars Forum > Mad Build Area > Tribute Automotive Builds

Tribute Automotive Builds Discuss your Tribute kit build

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  #21  
Old 14th February 2015, 09:30
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Jaguartvr Jaguartvr is offline
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I make and sell motorcycle seats and use "Trim Fix" to glue the covers on. You have to spray the adhesive onto both sides and you don't really get to reposition the material but it does stay glued. I've been selling them for about 6 years and so far have not had one come back with the glue failing. As these are used outside it must be pretty good. Available from Ebay for about 10 per tin, white can with red writing.
When choosing headlining be aware that if you chose a dark colour it can be very claustrophobic in a small car, light colours make it much brighter and airy.
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  #22  
Old 6th January 2018, 16:17
Mark87 Mark87 is offline
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Its been a while since I've last posted but I still have my MX250 and still love it. I'm interested to get some of your guys opinions on some badges that I've designed and 3d printed for my MX250. Please let me know what you think and also if anyone has any good ideas for a front badge design too, as I would like to make one but unsure what might work well.



Just Printed





Filled Sanded and Painted



Imgur Link - https://imgur.com/a/R0qiC

Last edited by Mark87; 6th January 2018 at 16:49..
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  #23  
Old 6th January 2018, 17:33
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Little touches like this make all the difference to a build .well done
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  #24  
Old 6th January 2018, 17:37
molleur molleur is online now
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Well done!
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  #25  
Old 6th January 2018, 21:51
DaveP DaveP is offline
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I hope it's ok to give an opinion.

Love the badges and quality of what you have achieved.

Only thought on improvement is with regard to style.

The Tribute badge is good old skool. But the MX250 much more modern. Some might say they clash because of that.

Anyway it's only my view and I know very little - hope I haven't offended.

Oh by the way - bl@@dy nice car

Dave
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  #26  
Old 7th January 2018, 00:13
JJMCD JJMCD is offline
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Very nice! For the 250 badge, I would try something with a period font like this:
http://www.carbadgeuk.co.uk/ferrari-...oke-case-study
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  #27  
Old 7th January 2018, 14:31
Mark87 Mark87 is offline
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No offence taken, I appreciate the advice. I understand most peoples view of the 250 is that its a 60s replica, but personally I have never tried to keep it too authentic. I get your point about them clashing though, I may eventually change the mx250 badge, I'm thinking possibly similar to the 308 gts badge, but with mx250 gto instead. http://cartype.com/pics/1654/small/3..._ferrari_s.jpg
In the immediate future I'm trying to think of a design for a front badge, which I plan on putting in the middle of the black mesh on the front nose of the car. I'm thinking something simple incorporating T and A for tribute automotive.
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  #28  
Old 7th January 2018, 19:46
mazdarazmataz mazdarazmataz is offline
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They look great to me mark, is there a way of chroming them economically?
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  #29  
Old 7th January 2018, 21:49
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They do look very good. Wish I had the skill and kit.

Liking the 308 style too - would be interesting to see.

A front design is very tricky indeed. I have similar issues with my (soon to begin) build.

I have an idea but no skills to implement

Dave
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  #30  
Old 7th January 2018, 22:03
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Closest that I could get on plastics or FRP is Cerakote C-7700Q
it is a spray that resembles a satin aluminum finish, but is very durable. They have a heat cured product called Glacier Chrome but needs to go over metal, as the cure is 500 degrees F for one hour.
That one looks like polished stainless.
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  #31  
Old 8th January 2018, 18:24
Mark87 Mark87 is offline
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Well my process for the badges was filler primer, then sand and repeat, before using a silver metallic enamel spray from wilko's http://www.wilko.com/specialist-pain...l/invt/0413840
Its cheap and cheerful and gives a very good chrome finish, apparently(according to the reviews) far better than the actual chrome spray they sell. After that I then sprayed them with a clear lacquer, which surprising dulled down the finish to more of a dull silver metal look. This was probably due to the silver being enamel and the clear lacquer being cellulose, but a lucky accident for me as I actually prefer the duller finish over the high chrome, at least for the badges.

Not the final silver coat, but this is what the paint looked like after one coat of the wilko silver.


There is another method too, I could go as far as to create molds of the badges in silicone, and then using a epoxy resin mixed with an aluminium oxide dye, create the badges that way. There's also the possibility with this method, to do it in stages where you could have a variety of colours and transparency. for instance red at the front, with black at the back. Something like this http://lodenemblems.com/sites/defaul...?itok=eNLQlCCJ
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