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Go Back   Madabout Kitcars Forum > Mad Build Area > Miglia Builds and discussion

Miglia Builds and discussion Miglia bodied builds

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  #281  
Old 22nd March 2024, 08:14
deni deni is offline
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Hi Tim,

Sorry for the late reply.

Nice to hear you're close to the finish line. Sorry to hear you're having problems with fitting the doors and the windscreen - I'm not at that stage yet, but I already know I'll have an issue with the bonnet and door fit, but I'll cross that bridge later...

I'm nearly done with all fabrication, so to finally have a moon buggy, I will also need the help of a car mechanic with starting the car, testing that my brake line installation was good and the wiring.
After that I will put the body on and that would be a milestone for me!

By the way, I like the rattle can painting approach, I might do the same when the time comes

Can I ask please, what bonding paste you have used to bond the body to the subframe?

Thanks, Deni.
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  #282  
Old 26th March 2024, 23:56
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1iTim 1iTim is offline
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Hi mate, good to hear youre at that stage. I have the original starter motor and its fine when warm and primed, but it disengages whenever the engine half catches, so pretty irritating to try start sometimes, Thinking of getting a modern one but trying to only spend needed money. these cars are mechanically very simple. get a service kit with points etc and you should be good unless theres some surprises like stuck pistons, or diz problems (mine had been reasembled wrong, and did not have its bob weights fitted)

I asked my engineer about body attachment, as i have heard you chaps talk about "bonding paste" whatever that is. His suggestion was selleys "sika-bond foamfix +" which is an expanding adhesive that he said would be good, and would absorb shock, and would expand to pretty much all the metal frame (straight) to fibreglass (curved). Rather than put paste or glue on and drop the body over, I have measured and chocked and measured and re-measured (and have one more remeasure to do now i see that the left tail ligghts look a smidge lower than the right) and have bolted the body on prior to using the foam glue.

For the bolts, i have drilled through the body in 2 points a side by the bonnet, 2 or 3 across the dash, 3 places in the door sills, three places in the back just behind the seats, two at the rear near the tank, and 2 on each side, with stainless m5 countersunk hex bolts, and tapped into the metal bodysubframe.

these bolt threads I covered in moly grease so the glue wont grab them, so i can then glue it up without the stress of sitting the body on wrong. the countersunk heads look ok too, but they may get removed and filled - not sure.

really i need to get back onto this don't I?

best, Tim
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  #283  
Old 11th April 2024, 12:00
deni deni is offline
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Hi Tim,

Thank you for the info mate, it's very helpful. I was also planning to use a few screws or bolts here and there as a positional reference points but I wasn't sure, so thanks for mentioning it.
Expanding foam sounds interesting - didn't think of it as an option. I will have to research a bit more about it, but the fact that it will expand and fill all the gaps seems really effective.

Yeah, I can't wait to reach this stage and I will try my best to reach it as soon as possible.

Good luck with your build and keep us posted mate, it would be nice to hear about your build progress.

Cheers, D.

P.S. If you would be interested or want to post some photos, there is explanation on how to do it now in my blog, since the things changed on this website. I had a problem with posting the photos too, so Paul L kindly posted the explanation and since then I'm able to post the pics again. It's on page 13 by the way.
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  #284  
Old 11th April 2024, 13:20
deni deni is offline
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Hi all,

Just wanted to check, I have recently fitted GAZ adjustable shock absorbers with shorter springs. I have expected the wishbones and the steering rack to change their angle, but I am not sure if this much change is ok (please see photos).

Any comments will be appreciated.

Cheers, D

P.S. Sorry, but I don't have clue why the images have rotated and I don't have a clue how to fix this either.






Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_7828.jpg (95.4 KB, 57 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_7829.jpg (95.3 KB, 56 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_7830.jpg (92.8 KB, 62 views)
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  #285  
Old 17th April 2024, 08:45
deni deni is offline
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Hi,
Would anybody offer advice on my post above, please?

Cheers, D.
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  #286  
Old 18th April 2024, 11:07
deni deni is offline
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Anybody......?

Thanks.
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  #287  
Old 21st April 2024, 19:55
deni deni is offline
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Nobody.....?
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  #288  
Old 22nd April 2024, 22:20
Lucky@LeMans Lucky@LeMans is offline
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Hi Deni,
I don't visit the site very often and hardly ever post anything these days as I seemed to be talking to myself when I did !
However, in response to your question I would suggest the arms are near the limit of travel, especially the steering track rod end. An easy way to check is to note the current position, remove the coil over and see how much travel is left when you raise the assembly further by hand. Its not ideal at this angle but you might be ok if nothing goes tight, you'll still want a few inches of travel at the wheel from your starting point . You want to check the suspension arm bolts haven't been tightened at an earlier stage before your lowered coil overs were fitted otherwise the bushes will wear out really quickly as this position is your new neutral position .

Last edited by Lucky@LeMans; 22nd April 2024 at 22:27..
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  #289  
Old 25th April 2024, 23:40
deni deni is offline
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Hello Paul,

Thank you so much for your response, I have already given up. Sadly, it seems that the future of this forum doesn't look promising ...
Unfortunately things do change...It's a shame, but I'm grateful to have received advice and guidance from experienced car builders in the past, and got so far not having any experience at all.
Especially with Miglia builds, not many people are posting for some reason, and if it wasn't for a couple of old blogs it would be quite challenging, at least for me, to build this car.
Anyway, I have learned much building this car and I hope I will muddle through and reach the finish line soon.

Thank you again for your advice, it is much appreciated. Thanks for confirming what I already suspected, that the position of the steering rack rod and the arms is not really good.
I'm not sure I quite understand the last bit, where you mention the suspension arm bolts being tightened before the swap. I'm guessing that they were, as the old spring were fitted prior the swap.

I think that the only good solution would be to buy and fit longer springs? I hope doing that would result in more acceptable suspension setup.
Unless there is a possibility to adjust the ride height independently from the spring height, which I'm not aware of?
I'm not sure if this is possible with the GAZ shocks I bought...???

I hope you are still keeping busy building the cars.

Cheers, Deni

Last edited by deni; 25th April 2024 at 23:58..
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  #290  
Old 10th May 2024, 22:30
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1iTim 1iTim is offline
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deni those shocks look like they have adjustable perches, and looks like you are not at the limit of those. Have you adjusted those to your liking?
T

PS I'm looking for those photo instructions and will post some more of my pics when i find them. Photo bucket kind of died on me.

T
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  #291  
Old 12th May 2024, 15:51
deni deni is offline
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Hi Tim,

Yes, they are adjustable,I just wasn't sure am I to wind the spring seats up all the way to raise the car. I tried to research but didn't find out if that is the correct way to lover the car, i.e.use short springs (which I did), but I don't know is it safe, or is it normal to wind the spring seats all the way up.
Or, if I have to raise them all the way up, is it necessary or better to use a bit longer springs?

The way they are adjusted now is not my adjustment yet,I only raised spring seats enough so that the springs didn't move or rattle when the wheels are off the ground.

Regarding the posting of the photos, there is an explanation in my blog on page 13.

Thank you for your comment Tim.

Cheers,D.

Last edited by deni; 12th May 2024 at 22:14..
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  #292  
Old 14th May 2024, 12:49
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Paul L Paul L is offline
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Deni – Apologies, whilst I can’t help with the technical suspension questions, I should have said how good all your panel work is looking.



Also, whilst I can’t find the bonding paste I used on my car any more, it was something like this.

https://www.ecfibreglasssupplies.co.uk/freefix-6470-w-2

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174567458...r=473775894331

Finally, if the rain every stops for a week or more, I’m still game for meeting up & taking you for a drive.

Good luck, Paul.
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  #293  
Old 16th May 2024, 10:16
deni deni is offline
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Hi Paul,

Thanks for the comment on my paneling, I'm pleased how it turned out.
I'm not going to permanently install the panels yet, to avoid obstructing the access for fibreglassing and bonding the body to the subframe in those areas. But I'm done with making all the panels and they just need to be fitted later on.

I already bought the bonding paste, just like the one you used I think. I ordered it from fibreglass direct.

Going for a drive!!!! Mate that would be amazing, it's great you're still up for it!!!
I hope we can find a gap when we're both free and the weather is good. I'm away for the whole month in August though.

Also, I can come closer to yours, no problem, just let me know.

Cheers,D.
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  #294  
Old 24th May 2024, 09:28
Biggles Biggles is offline
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Hi Deni, I’ve been a bit quiet for a while, but finally stumbled on your question. You need to wind up (ie compress) the springs a bit more to raise the ride height - it looks quite low. The reference to the bushes above was - before you set your ride height by adjusting the springs, you need to slacken all of the pinch bolts for the wishbones. Then, once adjustments are done to your satisfaction and the car is sitting fully on its wheels, tighten to the appropriate torque. This sets the bushes' neutral position at normal ride height, and will prevent the rubber elements of the bushes from being twisted too much as the suspension moves up and down and tearing them.
Btw if you find you have to compress the springs too much to achieve the ride height you need, ie the springs are in danger of being totally compressed when you hit a bump, you need to consider longer or stronger springs, or both. At that point, I would be on the phone to a supplier such as Faulkner springs or Merlin Motorsport for advice. Hope this helps. Keep on keeping on with the build!
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  #295  
Old 24th May 2024, 11:52
deni deni is offline
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Hi Biggles,

Thank you for the explanation, it is much appreciated! This makes it clearer to me. I thought about this and did a bit of research, but your explanation is spot on and I get it now, so thanks a lot.

I will try to do this and post the update once I've done it.

Cheers, D.
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  #296  
Old 24th May 2024, 13:48
Biggles Biggles is offline
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More thoughts on adjustments of ride height etc
1/ it’s a light car, so remember it will settle a fair bit once the car is fully finished. Seats etc weigh a fair bit. Also in the final adjustments you ideally need to adjust for occupants as well, so use weights on the seats. If you weigh, say, 100kg and the normal passenger 50kg, simulate this. If you normally drive alone, simulate that, plus have 2/3 tank of fuel and the spare on board if you have one.
2/ If it’s not to far on in the build, try and distribute the various weights evenly and as close to the axles as possible, so don’t have the spare, battery, fuel tank all on one side, unless you are setting up for solo occupancy and you are using them to balance your weight. Having masses close to the axles helps reduce pendulum effect and encourages neutral handling.
3/ don’t run the car too low - a good rule of thumb is to start with the bottom front wishbone level and work from there. When making handling adjustments, always only change one parameter at once, so you can be clear whether an improvement or detriment has occurred. Locostbuilders forum and also the Westfield Eleven register has some useful info one tweaking setups, but remember for a road car, safety of handling comes first - you want plenty of warning from the chassis that you are pushing too hard, so don’t use sticky or overly wide tyres and for tyre pressures, probably start around 20 - 22 psi and go from there. Best of luck.
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  #297  
Old 24th May 2024, 16:20
deni deni is offline
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Hi Biggles,

How do you know I weigh 100 kg !!!! only kidding.

Some really great tips there. It makes sense taking the weight of the fuel tank, spare tyre and the passenger into consideration.

I think my weight distribution is as good as I could get.

Also,great advice on height setup and what to look for, as well as checking out Westfield and Locost builder forums . I will do more reading on this, it's quite interesting topic.

Very helpful advice,thanks a lot Biggles.

Cheers, D.
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  #298  
Old 27th June 2024, 15:01
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Paul L Paul L is offline
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Deni - I'll try to contact you sometime next week so arrange a suitable date to meet up (sorry things are hectic here at the minute). Cheers, Paul.
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  #299  
Old 2nd July 2024, 21:08
deni deni is offline
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Hi Paul,

No worries, looking forward to it.

Cheers,D.
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