deggsy's A352 - Page 8

Mick O'Malley · #**141** 19th December 2015, 11:51

Quote:

Originally Posted by deggsy

If anyone any other Ideas please let me know.

If you decide to fit them to the bonnet, GRP trailer mudguards are a good starting point.

Regards, Mick

deggsy · #**142** 19th December 2015, 15:52

Agreed I have also been looking out for some used 7 type wings

deggsy · #**143** 12th January 2016, 18:10

well with Christmas done and dusted I managed to get a few hours on the car this weekend. I made some new sliding lock's for the steering rack the original one's I fitted were 7\8" long the new one's are 1 7\8" long as you can see from the photos.
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to make this upgrade you will need 1" OD tube with a 3mm wall thickness and cut to what ever length you require.
I also painted the engine bay panels whilst they are off.
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next job um ?? thinking about it.

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deggsy · #**144** 26th January 2016, 14:46

The the rack mods see to have worked well.
I have made a pair of rad air deflectors I have made them oversize for now and will be cut to the correct size when the bonnet is fitted.
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Now for the bad news I overhauled the twin SU's with all new gaskets and jets getting rid of the wax stat jets in the process and sorted out a sticking piston put it all back together and it still runs very rough, stripped it down again in situ found that one of the jets is not re seating after the choke is pulled couldn't get it to work no matter what I tried. Any ideas anyone???

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I have got another set of SU's but I'll have to swap all of the new gaskets and jets over to them and hope they work better.

I wish I had budgeted for a weber doh!

IanA · #**145** 26th January 2016, 18:41

My first suggestions would be to check for a bent needle (roll it on a flat surface) or a bent/misaligned linkage under either carb.

deggsy · #**146** 26th January 2016, 19:24

Thanks Ian I'll check them tomorrow probably the linkage, needles should be ok as the pistons are dropping cleanly.

landmannnn · #**147** 26th January 2016, 19:31

A side draught weber is a thing of beauty, but 100 times harder than SUs to set up!

deggsy · #**148** 26th January 2016, 19:37

I know and soooo expensive with the manifold as well.

deggsy · #**149** 29th January 2016, 16:33

Well I've tried for two days now to sort out my SU's tried another pair of carbs sorted out the linkages the pistons are rising together as they should but still running very rough and wont tick over, So I've decided to leave them until I can find a former drip (expert) to sort them out. Or if I can behave myself for a few month maybe her indoors will take pity on me and let my buy a single weber side (£520) or down (£320) draught ouch bi@@dy ell. to top it all when I was playing with the carbs my rev counter (spitfire) packed up on me. Doh.

Psycho pops · #**150** 30th January 2016, 20:06

What rev counter is it? I have a smiths rev counter internals and dial here, was going to use it but found it missing the induction loop on the rear, your welcome to try swapping them out if any good...

deggsy · #**151** 31st January 2016, 10:45

It's a smiths unit out of a spitfire unfortunately swapping them out won't work as I have fitted a contactless ignition system and it seems to kill the standard type rev counter. there is a company on ebay selling a upgrade module for £42 which has to be soldered on and programmed ? I think that is probably the best way to go but thank you very much for the offer it was very much appreciated.

Mick O'Malley · #**152** 1st February 2016, 05:31

Hi Deggsy

I have the twin of that tacho in my Marlin, it even mists up the same. I fitted electronic ignition and it continued to work fine. Are you certain you haven't disturbed the piggy back connector on your coil that sends the impulse to the tacho? It doesn't care what ignition system system you have, as long as it gets its impulses!

Regards, Mick

deggsy · #**153** 1st February 2016, 09:35

Thanks for that I'll check it you are right about the tacho apparently there are two types RVI and RVC the earlier one won't work with electronic ignition the later RVC which I have should work ok?

deggsy · #**154** 7th February 2016, 15:15

I hade to replace all the manifold gaskets on the carbs and they are running a little better now they still need balancing I am waiting for a friend to sort them out.

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I have started in the rear inner wings cum boot walls as usual I am making them over size to be cut to fit after the body is fitted. If I get them right each inner wing should be made up of three panels and lots of brackets!

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Still looking for a replacement taco I just lost a bid on eBay for one but there are more on there I just need to get one at the right price?

deggsy · #**155** 1st March 2016, 20:10

I haven't posted for a while so I thought I had better give you all a update.
I was running the engine last week trying to tune it a little better and the rev counter decided to start working again

the engine will now tick over reasonably well.
On Thursday some friends (I have got some) came over and helped me to put the body on it fitted reasonably well but needed some fettling to get it all lined up.

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There was a bit of a overlap with the boot floor which had to be cut back.
The wood bar over the cockpit was just to help with sliding the body on and has now been removed.
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also some cutting and filing of oversized alloy panels
next will be bonding the shell to the frame I just hope I get it right

Scottie22 · #**156** 2nd March 2016, 07:45

Nice one Deggsy!
I remember when I finally got my body on, and thought "Wow, I'm nearly finished" Even the Towed thought the same, and commented on my thread to the effect!
How WRONG I was!! How WRONG he was!!

The work that came after that was epic!

Having said that, you have already done your dash and a lot of other things too, as your build is different to mine,
so hopefully you will be much closer to the finish than I was.

My rev counter packed up last summer, and I just left it, but my dash has to be stripped out now as there are lots of issues behind it that now need addressing!

Good luck with the rest of your build!

Scottie

deggsy · #**157** 2nd March 2016, 08:25

Scottie
Thanks for the encouragement I agree there is a long way to go yet, did you notice how lost the wheels look in the arches? spacers and wider tyres I think.

Scottie22 · #**158** 2nd March 2016, 08:38

Odd you should say that 'cos I had noticed, and mine were the same.

I fixed it by 1.25 inch spacers all round, , extra-wide dished wheels and a few degrees of negative camber which always helps to give the illusion that the wheels fill the arches better!
Feels more sure- footed too. ( and looks mean!)

Before you finally bond your body on, make sure you are happy with the stance and ride height Deggsy.
Once the body is fixed lowering can only be done by suspension tweaks.
I did both on mine, I dumped the body as low as I could possibly get it first, and then lowered the suspension also.
It really is low, but will ( or does) clear all the speed bumps and rubbish I've met on the roads in 600 miles or so.
I'll look forward to your posts!

Scottie

deggsy · #**159** 2nd March 2016, 08:55

The body is as low as it will go as it fits onto the frame that Chris made for me (so I'll blame him) It made fitting and lining up very simple though/

Mick O'Malley · #**160** 2nd March 2016, 11:43

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scottie22

Nice one Deggsy!
I remember when I finally got my body on, and thought "Wow, I'm nearly finished" Even the Towed thought the same, and commented on my thread to the effect!
How WRONG I was!! How WRONG he was!!

Seconded!!!

At long last I'm filling, sanding, filling, sanding, filling, sanding ready for that gorgeous Flag Metallic Blue Ecurie Ecosse paint job.

If it looks half as good as this one I'll be well pleased

!