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Go Back   Madabout Kitcars Forum > Mad Build Area > Marlin Sportster, Cabrio, Berlinetta and Roadster builds

Marlin Sportster, Cabrio, Berlinetta and Roadster builds Enthused or Confused about your vintage Marlin build? Ask away here or show off your build.

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  #61  
Old 15th March 2016, 18:06
timbo timbo is offline
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So we've replaced the MAF sensor but no joy, still the same problems with spluttering and lack of power and revs when you put your foot on the accelerator.

Any ideas??

Thanks
Tim
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  #62  
Old 15th March 2016, 18:11
Mike Mike is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timbo View Post
So we've replaced the MAF sensor but no joy, still the same problems with spluttering and lack of power and revs when you put your foot on the accelerator.

Any ideas??

Thanks
Tim
Tim

Go back to Adem - he charges enough for his services, so if your car does not run properly he has not finished the job. He's a very straight guy and I'm sure he will want to see it completed to your satisfaction.

Mike
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  #63  
Old 15th March 2016, 18:44
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MartinClan MartinClan is offline
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Did you keep the diagnostic socket. I think I would start by plugging a fault code reader in if you can. It will at least eliminate the obvious.

Robin
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  #64  
Old 1st April 2016, 10:59
timbo timbo is offline
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Well a good news-bad news day.

We have managed to replace the MAF and get it working, so it has now passed the MOT. Got the road tax sorted so all road legal.

Decided to take it for a celebratory drive along the Bristol ring road when it decided to spew coolant all over the engine, through the louvres and onto myself.

Managed to get it home but it is clearly suffering from massive over-heating problems.
The only solution seems to be an upgrade to a better radiator - any other ideas??

Thanks
Tim
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  #65  
Old 1st April 2016, 12:18
timbo timbo is offline
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On reflection, I think I will start by replacing the thermostat.

The only gauge on the E30 clocks that I couldn't get to work was the temperature gauge so maybe that is all tied in with the problem. Maybe my added in temp probe isn't compatible?
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  #66  
Old 1st April 2016, 16:15
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Default Over heating

Hi Tim

Based on your photos on flickr, and my own very similar experience, I suspect your problem may have more to do with the positioning of your expansion tank relative to the top of your radiator.

My M50 did just the same on my first proper run. When I did some research I determined that water expands 10% by volume from 4 degrees C to 110 degrees C (the boiling point is raised by increasing the pressure in the cooling system). So, given that the cooling system held around 5 litres there will be at least half a litre forced out as the cooling system reaches maximum temperature.


I only cured mine by adding a tank with a 1 litre capacity (anything less resulted in water being boiled off, and then the system sucked air back in as it cooled) and mounting it on top of the front bulkhead - the highest point under the bonnet - (and still only just above the top of my radiator).


From your flickr site I would suggest your header tank is mounted too low.

If you want to experiment to prove the point, add in a little more feed pipe to allow your tank to temporarily fix above your bonnet line.
Then take your car for a run. You will lose some coolant as it expands, so make sure you have an overflow taking it below the chassis, and allow the engine to reach maximum temperature. When it cools down to cold, the header tank should still be half full.

Hope this helps - let me know how you get on

Regards

Mike
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  #67  
Old 8th April 2016, 19:13
timbo timbo is offline
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Well further investigation revealed that the cooling system wasn't de-pressurising correctly, hence the catastrophic failure of the radiator.

I have now re-designed the whole system, using an aluminium pressurised header tank with non-pressurised plastic expansion bottle, and a new aluminium radiator (will get my upgrade after all!).

Thanks for your suggestions Mike, I will ensure the header tank is mounted as far up as possible, though I don't think it will fit on the bulkhead itself.

Now just got to fit it and then test it . . .
Tim
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  #68  
Old 26th April 2016, 15:12
timbo timbo is offline
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After a frustrating amount of time spent trying to get the temperature gauge working, I have reached the conclusion that it is the gauge itself which is faulty. Since I didn't really fancy taking the scuttle off again, I have added in an electronic temp gauge, which is slightly out of keeping with the car but has the advantage that it works!

Had a idle test with the header tank cap off this afternoon, temperature reached 60 and then the fan kicked in and the temp stayed about the same. I have replaced the standard coolant with waterless coolant which I am hoping will also help.

There was a small leak where the wire probe for the fan goes into a hose join but other than that it seemed ok. Aiming to re-build the front end tomorrow and take it for a 'proper' test.

If that goes well I am hoping the weather will be good enough for me to drive it up to Stoneleigh on Sunday

Tim
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  #69  
Old 27th April 2016, 21:49
timbo timbo is offline
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Rebuilt the front and took it for a tentative test drive this morning. I haven't managed to solve the small hose leak so guess it will need some sealant - any recommendations?

The temp went up to 85 with no probs, the system had pressurised to an extent as there was a definite hiss when I took the cap off the header tank. Coolant level had remained constant.

Will try a more aggressive test on Saturday hopefully.
Tim
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  #70  
Old 28th April 2016, 07:29
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MartinClan MartinClan is offline
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I soldered the temperature probe for the fan through a small hole into a short length of large copper tube. I then split the top hose at an appropriate point and used the copper tube as a joiner. No leaks for the last 6 years....

Robin
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  #71  
Old 28th April 2016, 15:24
jeremy jeremy is offline
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Default Temp probe

Hi robin, cud u post a picture of the temp probe housed in the copper pipe, thanks
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  #72  
Old 3rd June 2016, 13:58
timbo timbo is offline
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Belated thanks for that idea, Robin.

After a lengthy delay due to a combination of work and ill health I can finally report some good news

After fixing a couple of leaks on the new coolant system, I was able to take it for a modest 8 mile test drive this afternoon with no problems. Temp didn't go above 90 the whole time, and it was a delight to drive.

Yippee!!

Tim
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  #73  
Old 27th July 2016, 16:09
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Hi all,

In the process of stripping an E39 with M52TUB25 engine for a locost 442E

Got the whole loom out the car from dashboard back. Already disconnected, ABS, all lights, Airbags & module, door/boot locks, sound system, climate control system.

Car still runs fine, wanting to use a chopped down version of the original loom for my 442E. What should I NOT disconnect (that will cause problems with EWS?)

A bit heavy for my first post but excellent thread.

Last edited by craigdiver; 27th July 2016 at 20:37.. Reason: Typo
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  #74  
Old 27th July 2016, 22:01
timbo timbo is offline
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The system was described to me as like a daisy chain. If you start removing parts of the daisy chain then the system will end up not being able to send the new rolling codes back and forth from the key to ECU via the immobiliser consistently accurately.

I believe the instrument cluster is a fairly important component in the daisy chain.

My advice would be to get in touch with Adam Ergen (google Ergen Motorsports). He will be able to modify your ECU so that you can remove all the unwanted parts of your donor loom and still retain the original level of security plus 100% reliability in starting.

He is not cheap but my experience was that his work was worth every single penny.

Hope this helps.
Tim
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  #75  
Old 28th July 2016, 14:37
craigdiver craigdiver is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timbo View Post
The system was described to me as like a daisy chain. If you start removing parts of the daisy chain then the system will end up not being able to send the new rolling codes back and forth from the key to ECU via the immobiliser consistently accurately.

I believe the instrument cluster is a fairly important component in the daisy chain.

My advice would be to get in touch with Adam Ergen (google Ergen Motorsports). He will be able to modify your ECU so that you can remove all the unwanted parts of your donor loom and still retain the original level of security plus 100% reliability in starting.

He is not cheap but my experience was that his work was worth every single penny.

Hope this helps.
Tim
Great help Tim, thank you
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  #76  
Old 14th March 2017, 09:54
timbo timbo is offline
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MOT day yesterday. I thought it was going to be one of those days as 1/2 mile from the garage it just died on a roundabout, no crank, nothing.

Fortunately turned out to be just a loose connection on the battery +ve terminal (it has quite a few wires going into it, will replace with a more secure clamping arrangement. Probably got loosened taking the battery out for the winter). Other than that, a couple of minor things, otherwise all good

Will sadly be putting it up for sale shortly in order to fund the next project so if anyone is interested...

Tim
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  #77  
Old 24th March 2017, 10:36
timbo timbo is offline
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Up for sale now:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1624431781...84.m1558.l2649
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  #78  
Old 26th March 2017, 08:04
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timbo View Post
Good luck with your sale, Tim.
There are a couple of folks on the MOC forum denigrating your build with no knowledge of what they are talking about. So much for the 'friendly' club that should be supporting the marque rather than putting it down. Hopefully, someone on here will put them straight!

I believe this is still the only BMW M52TU with dual VANOS on the road so quite a unique car. I sold mine through carandclassics website which is free to advertise and no commission on the sale. It gets very good visibility across the UK and Europe so maybe worth a try?

....peter
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  #79  
Old 26th March 2017, 10:31
timbo timbo is offline
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Thanks you, Peter (and Mike for your helpful explanations on the MOC forum).

Sometimes it is easy to jump to conclusions without having all the facts.

For example, although it may appear from the recent MOT that my steering rack was about to fall off, the MOT inspector omitted the word 'gaiter' from his report, which was actually a simple cable tie fix - the steering rack was absolutely fine.

Tim
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  #80  
Old 9th May 2017, 18:56
timbo timbo is offline
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Well it is the end of my 10 year Marlin experience:



I am pleased to be able to report that it has gone to a good home.
I have enjoyed the Sportster journey but it is time to move on to the next project.
Thank you to all on the forum for your immense help, support and advice over the last 10 years.
Timbo
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