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Go Back   Madabout Kitcars Forum > Mad Build Area > Marlin Sportster, Cabrio, Berlinetta and Roadster builds

Marlin Sportster, Cabrio, Berlinetta and Roadster builds Enthused or Confused about your vintage Marlin build? Ask away here or show off your build.

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Old 16th April 2021, 19:24
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Default Fuel Injector Rebuild and Oil Filter Housing Plug, coolant tank and heater

Numerous little updates on the Sportster:

In 2005 when we build the car we had the fuel injectors out, added new o-rings and gave them run in an ultrasonic cleaner. They are now 33 years old and are overdue for a refresh. Found this company here in the UK who supply rebuild kits: I send them an email before ordering and they advise BMW kit 10 was suitable for the 0 280 150 715 injectors. Arrived next day.

Rocker cover off for access, took the wiring harness off, loosed the 4 bolts holding the fuel rail on and pulled the injectors up and out. Had to remove the clips from the top of the injectors which hold them to fuel rail and I was able to get them out one at a time.

Condition as removed, pretty dirty. The o-rings are still in reasonable shape as they have been changed before.

The filters on the the other hand were dark and old looking. Getting the filters out took some careful manoeuvring with a screw driver and a pick.

While the cap, o-rings, spacer and filters were out dropped them into the ultrasonic cleaner

After all 6 injectors it was starting to look a bit disgusting

Shiny new parts!

Pushed in a the new filter and added a new o-ring:

Installed the new spacer, o-ring and cap on the other end.

Repeat 6 times for a full set!

Installation is reverse of removal, put all the injectors into the fuel rail first and add the retaining clips. Then carefully line up with the intake manifold and push into position. Reattach the fuel rail with the 4 bolts and reassemble the rocker cover and crank vent tube.

Took it for a good drive today, seems to run smoother and idle better, so I’d call the a success! This job is not too bad to DIY, helps if you have an ultrasonic cleaner.


The M20 engine leaks oil, this is one of the places it started leaking from recently. The housing which the oil filter connects to and the oil cooler pipes has a plug. This plug has an o-ring which has gone solid and started leaking. BMW Part number 11429059338 – comes with a new plug and o-ring.

Some shouting and swearing to get the retainer clip out – nothing to grab on to so screw driver in the divet on the left.

Quite a bit of oil comes out here when it’s unplugged.

This is the content under the plug, shown with new plug and o-ring.

Cleaned up the old parts to go back in.

Getting this thing back in was not the easiest job. Ended up using a clamp to force it into place and put the retaining clip in. Used screw driver in the cap to move it to the correct angle and location before removing the clamp.

This job took a suprisingly long time to do as it was quite fiddly.


Purchased a new coolant expansion / header tank to replace the original 1988 part from the donor car. For the first time since building the car you can see the coolant level! Should have replaced this years ago, but it's not the cheapest part to get new. The nice thing is you can still get new original ones. They were use on the E30 and on the Z3.

Added a new blank cap to replace the level sensor cap with a fresh o-ring as well.

Needed little bit of modification for the lower mount – a hole drill into it.

The old one is almost solid, the lower hose connection was coming to bits too, the metal insert on its way out the end.

Looks a lot nicer with the new tank.

You can really see the opacity difference.

Nice clear fill level:

Engine bay looks much cleaner now.

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Old 16th April 2021, 19:25
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For a number of years now the heater has caused problems with the fans moving out on the shaft and scraping against the side of the outer casing. The tick tick scraping noise can be heard even with the exhaust on the louder setting.

It’s finally time to fix it properly.

Step 1, spend a few hours swearing at hard to get to bolts to get the outer casing off and the wiring disconnected.

Here’s the culprit – right next to where it’s supposed to be stuck to.

It moves out here and scrapes on the case.

Decided to use a few different methods, first drill a 2.4mm hole down the end of the shaft.

Tap the hole using set of M3 taps.

Test fit (this is a super long bolt, use a much shorter one)

Added a number of washers

This will stop the fan from moving off the end of the shaft.

Then to add a bit more security roughed up the motor shaft and the inside of the fan, then used some epoxy to keep the fan on, and the washer on and the bolt in place.

Reassembled the whole lot:

Put a fresh connector on for the earth (had to cut that to get fan off the car, with the scuttle panel in place it’s hard to get to some of the wiring).

Re-arranged the wires, new connector for the earth and zip tied everything back up.

Heater snapped back together, bolts put in and the 6 metal clips back on. Used tape to seal the front panel and connected up the window de-misters.

Re-installed the headunit

And now it’s back to looking like nothing happened.

On the plus side I can use the heater again without it being super irritating!
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Old 17th April 2021, 21:26
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Nice work, Patrick.
Your injector refurb is really interesting as I had no idea you could get the parts to do your own rebuilds. Very useful to know.
thanks, Peter
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Old 18th April 2021, 23:19
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Thanks Peter, I didn't know until I recently stumbled over rebuild kits on eBay then found the mr injector site
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Old 25th May 2021, 22:01
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Another small project, recently tried to flush the brake fluid with a pressure bleeder. It uses a chain to hold a top on the fluid reservoir/expansion tank. That doens’t work at all well, didn’t hold well, brake fluid went everywhere. On the other cars I look after there’s a screw on cap type that works really well with the pressure bleeder.

The reservoir that’s been on the car since building it was from Marlin, I don’t know what car it’s from but I can’t find an adapter for the pressure bleeder. So the next best thing was to change the tank for an OE BMW one that works with the bleeder.

The new part is from a 1972 BMW E21 BMW Part 34321112399 – ATE Part 03.3508-5851.3. It doesn’t come with a level sensor, for that I used a newer part from an E9X BMW part 34336774451. I had to modify the expansion take slightly to allow clearance for the sensor. It is about 0.5cm longer than there is room in the expansion tank, just meant chopping a small amount of the wall between the front/rear fluid chambers. There is a sensor specifically for the E21 tank 34321153157 but I wasn’t able to get one.

Removed this one, set it aside so the system remained closed while creating the mount for the new one.

Cut out an aluminium plate and added some riv nuts in the top to bolt the the tank to. Made sure the tank is level fron to back.

The rear bottom is the same mount as the old one, drilled a hole for the front riv nut.

Transferred the clutch and two pipes over from the old tank to the new one. Added some clips to be sure they’ll stay there under pressure.

Added a new plug on the end of the level sensor wire, this one is off ebay from an E46. Could figure out the part numbers for the plus so that was the easiest way to get one.

Clearance check for battery.

Battery back in, lots of clearance for the bonnet.

View through the louvers

Fluid change should be relatively clean and easy next time!
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