Dimensions?

jonesey · #1 2nd September 2012, 10:15

Morning all, new boy here.

Can anyone tell me the overall dimensions of a Spyder and of a Cordite? I have a burning urge to put one in my garage.

On which note, as one who is reasonably mechanically proficient, but with no building experience, is a Sammio a reasonable prospect?

And finally: what are the chances of buying a humpless kit and a hump seperately?

Thanks!

GazDavies · #2 2nd September 2012, 10:44

Goodmorning and welcome. I cant help with the dimensions at the moment but they are both very small cars so are garage friendly.

I built a Spyder as my first kit car build and found the whole process very simple and straight forward. Its not a simple bolt together kit like some of the seven type cars with a detailed build plan but with a little common sense and sometimes the help of this forum its an easy build.

Chances of buying a humpless kit and seperate hump would be excellent I would have thought. I dont see any reason why not if that is what you want.

jonesey · #3 2nd September 2012, 11:37

Lovely, ta.

Now all I have to do is rewire the Midget and get it sold to free up the space

garyh · #4 2nd September 2012, 15:16

Crack on, Mr Jones...

Mister Towed · #5 2nd September 2012, 15:59

Hi Jonesey, welcome to the friedly forum

Spyder is roughly 14' long, 4'10" wide and mine's thirty inches high to the top of the cockpit.

It's not possible to build one of these wrong as there are no rules or instructions. You just build it your way and nobody will tell you you should have done it differently, apart from Micha of course, who nobody listens to anyway.

If you've got a decent chassis to start with you can build one of these cars if you know one end of a spanner from the other and can work out how glue works. If your chassis's rotten, then you'll need to learn to weld if you can't already, or pay someone to do it for you.

As for the removeable hump, I'd buy a standard humped shell, carefully cut the hump out, fibreglass over the hole then put the hump back on with simple fasteners so it can be removed if desired.

Good luck whatever you decide to build.

jonesey · #6 2nd September 2012, 16:21

Fourteen feet? Are you sure? That's longer than a Vitesse and, as far as I can see, you end up chopping a foot or so off the back of the donor chassis in the end.

Well if it is fourteen feet, it ain't going in my single 1930's garage, as with my workbenches, I only have 3.7m (12 and a bit feet) to play with. Width should be ok for the drive, which is narrower than the garage (?). And I think I'll be ok for height

With regard to building it, my concern was not so much with doing it right, as being able to do it at all. In truth, I'm pretty confident, assuming I can find a decent rolling chassis.

And making my own removable hump was the original idea, but if I can buy it already done then it's just easier.

Anybody want a Midget with the dashboard out?

lancelot link · #7 2nd September 2012, 16:35

Afternoon.....Spyder is 12' , just over but 12' is about right and the Cordite is approx 8'' shorter...

People who have never tackled a car project before are building these cars....as prev. said this forum is invaluable for advice , tips etc...

jonesey · #8 2nd September 2012, 16:53

Quote:

Originally Posted by lancelot link

Afternoon.....Spyder is 12' , just over but 12' is about right and the Cordite is approx 8'' shorter...

Phew. That's saved me from not spending five grand then!

GazDavies · #9 2nd September 2012, 16:58

Quote:

Originally Posted by jonesey

In truth, I'm pretty confident, assuming I can find a decent rolling chassis.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1209767258...84.m1555.l2649

jonesey · #10 2nd September 2012, 17:06

Quote:

Originally Posted by GazDavies

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1209767258...84.m1555.l2649

Yeah, I know. There's also a much better one out there as well, but I just don't have the space now.

Mister Towed · #11 2nd September 2012, 18:11

Quote:

Originally Posted by jonesey

Fourteen feet? Are you sure?

Erm, will go out and measure it again...

Mister Towed · #12 2nd September 2012, 18:22

Oops, sorry, twelve feet it is indeed. Just shows that you shouldn't do anything technical after a glass of wine. I added twenty four inches to one hundred and twenty inches and made it fourteen feet...

jonesey · #13 2nd September 2012, 19:02

measure twice...

oxford1360 · #14 2nd September 2012, 22:54

Evening Jonesey, and welcome to the best forum on the web. Just go for it. You'll have fun. You will build a car that makes you happy.

Paul L · #15 3rd September 2012, 22:22

Quote:

Originally Posted by lancelot link

... People who have never tackled a car project before are building these cars...

Hang on, I resemble that remark!

Jonesey - Welcome.

I put together a couple of MZ250 motorcycle racers a long time ago, but never anything this big.

In all honesty, I have very little idea what I am doing.

But I learn from reading other build threads and asking lots of questions.

I certainly would not have done anything like this if this forum wasn't here.

If you don't feel up to major welding, spend more on your donor car.

With hindsight I'd have got a runner with tax & MOT.

As just being able to drive it around would have saved me money on transport costs.

On the plus side, after today I will have sold surplus parts for approx. 75% of my donor cost.
( With a few more bits still left to sell )

Good luck, Paul.

jonesey · #16 4th September 2012, 07:13

I thinks that's probably good advice, Paul. Whilst it's tempting to find a rolling chassis for nuppence, it makes sense to buy a complete, MOTed car and sell off what I don't need.

I'm not a welder, although I'd like to learn. Can't find any classes though.

WorldClassAccident · #17 4th September 2012, 07:14

I am building a G46 based on a 1969 Scimitar which was parked under a tree in 1989. This necessitated a complete strip down of the chassis and engine and rebuild it pretty much from scratch.

My automotive mechanical experience prior to this was topping up the screen wash.

It is taking me longer than it would take a mechanic and I am having to correct my occasional mistake but all good fun so far.

Mister Towed · #18 4th September 2012, 07:27

Some very good points raised above - I'd also recommend buying the best donor you can afford as it'll save a lot of time and money later on as I found out when I bought one with a bodged chassis.

I know that a few people have made a profit by selling off their redundant panels and interiors, and I made back about 98% of my initial purchase price. My chassis, gearbox, V5 and reconditioned engine effectively cost me £28.

My previous experience of modifying vehicles was limited to converting a '67 semi-automatic beetle to a manual box, fitting a bigger engine to it and modifying the suspension and brakes to cope with the extra power - a tyre shredding 75bhp!

Oh, and if you want to learn to weld, buy a welding machine, read the instructions and crack on, it's not as difficult as the professionals would have you believe.

jonesey · #19 4th September 2012, 07:30

Tell me more about these "instructions" of which you speak...

oxford1360 · #20 4th September 2012, 07:37

Quote:

Originally Posted by jonesey

I'm not a welder, although I'd like to learn. Can't find any classes though.

Whilst there is no substitute for being taught by somebody that can, this site is brilliant with lots of video tutorials -
http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/

And, the forum members couldn't be more helpful. There are also useful sections on blasting and spraying.

I bought a Clarke MIG and lots of offcuts from a local engineering firm and practised until my welds looked like the videos. If they don't look right, and you are not getting penetration, then you scratch your head, read a bit more, and then adjust what you are doing.

It's rewarding........but I should still have spent more on the donor. It saves money in the long run, and loads and loads of time, which in Sammio-world is very very valuable.