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Go Back   Madabout Kitcars Forum > Mad Build Area > Marlin 5exi builds

Marlin 5exi builds Calling all you sexi builders....sorry 5exi builders, show us your progress.

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  #1  
Old 30th January 2012, 21:51
mike joiner mike joiner is offline
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Default Engine in

Have just put a 1.4 k series engine in my 5exi have marlin loom and all rover loom and ecu 5as box engine fuse box any help on lashing all together would be great was a 2001 year rover 25
any help would be great
Mike
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  #2  
Old 31st January 2012, 07:14
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Hi Mike.

Do you have the Marlin electrical diagram?

How are you with electrics? First I would lable all the wires on the Marlin loom. This will get you to know which wire does what.

First thing you need to do, is put in the Marlin wiring loom. These's a trick here. Feed the back end of the loom through the front bulkhead. There's a little hole in the ally front bulkhead, near the steering column. Run it across to the passenger side and down to the rear of the car.

Start off the wiring with the ignition switch.
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Old 31st January 2012, 18:00
mike joiner mike joiner is offline
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Thanks for the reply I have pulled the marlin loom into place and ignition switch is sorted as far as I know lights heater wipers all up and working indicators work Hazards still to be done and have the joy of this to come.My main concern is how the rover 5as is incorperated into the marlin loom.As far as my electrical skills go I have little skill but am quite logical and persistant
Mike
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Old 31st January 2012, 19:58
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limpabit limpabit is offline
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Hi Mike

I did this little diagram for the ignition switch. Might come in handy.
http://www.kitcar.good-hosting.co.uk...ign_switch.doc

The hazard switch was fun working out. Needed a litle alteration with the wiring. Using a mk3 200 hazard switch.



As for the 5as bit. I did not need that on mine as I had the old 220 turbo. But don't think it was a big job. Marlin actually did a sub loom for this. But others got round it.

I'll have a look at the electrical diagrams in Rave and see what's involved. In the mean time, some might pop along for advise.
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Old 31st January 2012, 20:51
mike joiner mike joiner is offline
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Thanks again for quick respsonce have seen your drawing with hazards before and will be taking a look at this in the neer future switch lay out is also great thanks
Mike
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Old 1st February 2012, 07:09
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Not sure if you have this diagram. I've send you via PM the other notes I have re 5as.
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  #7  
Old 1st February 2012, 20:32
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Default Wiring

Hiya,

I completed my 1.6 k in 2006 - so some of the detail is hazy now. I do remeber though laying the loom out and labelling everything very carefully before I started. I also had the Marlin 5as mini loom and this worked a treat - even leaves you with a diagnostic socket for a generic OBDII code reader :-)

Be patient, methodical and logical......it will work. (Oh, and don't cover up the cables with conduit / wrap until you've proven everything!!

I know I made a schoolboy error with a permanent live and ended up not being able to turn the engine off - took best part of a week to resolve, and was due to simply mis soldering a wire...so, I'll say again - methodical, logical, patient!!


..oh, and you will probably need an extra live feed for the front headlamps - the marlin loom I had was not geared up for the later design 206 'twin lamp' headlights


ATB

Rich
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  #8  
Old 3rd February 2012, 20:11
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Default Electrics

http://homepage.swissonline.ch/TomsS...tion2/Map.htm# was the page with all the detail on the 5AS and other ECU circuits but its gone off the net now.

I copied or printed most of the diagrams and have posted them on other forums including this one.

I made extensive hand drawn diagrams of all the circuits but they are a bit rough for anyone else to follow but they cover every circuit on the car and a few you will not have! I fitted waterproof sockets to the loom on both clams and fitted a working drivers door lock I also have activate key fobs and the a diag. socket as well as the immobiliser operating the hazards on lock and unlock. I know a bit over the top perhaps for a kit car but I could so I did....

There is an extensive thread on the hazards on here I know because I contributed to it, the clue to remember there is that the hazard switch is the master switch for the indicators. The flashing signal is routed through the hazard switch and then on to the indicator switch. I also have clam open switches.

The 5AS and the ECU need to be a matched pair (key fob as well if you have it) either from the same car or programmed together, but I guess you know that.

There are a number of core between the two (ECU to 5AS), only two cores are required for basic operation the common earth and the serial link that tells the ECU to remove the immobiliser. You must put this common earth in or you will have problems.

If you want the ECU diag socket to work long term then more cores need to be made between them. You may regret not having the socket long term if things go wrong or you need to reset a MIL lamp.

An 'on' MIL would be an IVA fail for instance unless you dis the lamp.



I suggest you message me with an email address and I can ship them over to you.

You could try the Rover Forum for more information and detail.


That should keep you quiet for a day or two enjoy.







Some odd bits that may not help ..... I have much more.

You will need a working driver side door lock to enter the test mode by the way. So may be out of your boundary of build.


5AS
I have got some notes, its for a 16k series.
Pin 1 Ignition supply
Pin 2 Earth
Pin 9 Imobiliser signal to ECU Pin 13
Pin 10 Antenna for remote.
Pin 23 Starter relay Pin 2
Pin 26 Battery supply.

Diagnostic Procedure

1. Close all doors and the tailgate.
NOTE: If the oil pressure switch goes open circuit (engine is started) during the following procedure, the MFU will exit the diagnostic mode immediately.

2. Press and hold the heated rear screen switch and switch on the ignition.

3. Release the heated rear screen switch within 2 seconds and the MFU will beep to indicate that it’s in
diagnostic mode 1.

4. Press the heated rear screen switch; the MFU will beep twice. In turn, operate each of the following
switches, heated front screen, rear fog guard lamps, side lights, headlights, front wiper and rear wiper.
The MFU will beep twice each time a switch is operated.

5. Pressing the heated rear screen again will cause the MFU to enter diagnostic mode 2.

6. The MFU will provide outputs to the following in order given below:
Heated rear screen relay energised for 2 seconds
Heated front screen energised for 2 seconds
Courtesy lights energised for 2 seconds
Dim dip relay energised for 2 seconds
Rear fog guard lamp energised for 2 seconds
Headlamp power wash energised for half a second
Front wiper energised for half a second
Rear wipe/wash energised for half a second

7. The MFU will then exit the diagnostic mode.


5AS Alarm Self Test Facility

Just found this procedure in an old Technical Bulletin (1995!).

It allows you to test all of the alarm's inputs. I have typed the details verbatim.

Access to the self test facility is obtained as follows:-

(The following steps 2 to 4, must be completed within 2 seconds, in order to induce the ECU to enter the self test mode.)

1) The vehicle must be in disarmed mode, unlocked and with the ignition switched off.

2) Lock the driver's door using the driver's door sill button.

3) Turn the ignition ON, OFF then ON again and leave it ON.

4) Unlock the driver's door using the driver's door sill button.

Confirmation that the test mode has been successfully entered is given by the horn sounding a short beep. Once in self test mode, the volumetric sensor (if fitted) is powered up and the vehicle is in an immobilised state.

If an ECU input is then seen to become active i.e. to go from an open circuit to a short circuit (or earthed) condition, the security LED will give a short flash to indicate this.

When the system is in the self test mode, operation of the appropriate switch by moving the associated panel or linkage will instigate the test on each of the following circuits;

1) Driver's door courtesy light switch.
2) Passenger door(s) courtesy light switch.
3) Bonnet open switch.
4) Boot open switch.
5) Driver's door key barrel switch. (Not on 100 models)
6) Boot key barrel switch (Not on 100 models)
7) Driver's sill button "up" switch.
8) Driver's sill button "down" switch.

Switch tests need not be made in any particular sequence and any or all may be tested as required.

Correct operation of the circuit being tested will be denoted by the single flash of the security LED and the same circuit may be tested repeatedly if necessary.
The self test mode can be terminated at any point by switching off the ignition.

Failure of the ECU to enter the test mode will probably indicate that it is not receiving inputs from either the ignition power supply or the driver's door sill button switches.

VOLUMETRIC TEST

The test facility may also be used to check the operation of the volumetric sensor, either ultrasonic or Doppler microwave (if fitted), by performing the following;

With the system in self test mode and the remote handset previously programmed and synchronised to the vehicle being tested, press the unlock button once.
The ECU will now disregard inputs from it's associated switches, and will instead, give a confirmation flash on the security LED to indicate that the volumetric sensor has been triggered, the action of which can usually be induced by waving a hand in front of the sensor.
The self test mode can be terminated by switching off the ignition.
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  #9  
Old 15th February 2012, 12:13
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Not sure if you a wiring diagram or not but this PDF might be helpful. It contains all diagrams for all the Marlin circuits. It was done for a VAG engine, but should be fine to use for Rover engine.
It should show how all the lighting circuits, fog, indicators etc need to be wired in.
What did you get in the way of the Marlin loom?

Cheers
Steve
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  #10  
Old 23rd February 2012, 22:09
mike joiner mike joiner is offline
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Thanks for all your help on this issue I have still not got the engine running yet .I have wired up the 5AS as in above suggestion the fuel pump runs to prime but not on cranking also the starter motor will not turn over when earthed at 5AS but is good when moved to battery - the LED stops flashing to sugest that the imobalized but I am not so sure but do not know how to check this
any help would be great
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Old 26th February 2012, 13:41
mike joiner mike joiner is offline
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so it now works, it was an error on the ignition switch did not want to run with no power on crank very good day
thanks again Mike
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  #12  
Old 27th February 2012, 09:03
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Great news Mike. Glad you got it going.
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