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Go Back   Madabout Kitcars Forum > Mad Build Area > Bodywork

Bodywork Share your thoughts, problems and ideas about bodywork related issues

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  #1  
Old 13th September 2022, 19:24
WorldClassAccident WorldClassAccident is offline
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Default Anyone built their own bodywork without a mould?

I was thinking of getting something like this


and making something like this


Using this guys technique - not sure if I will use glass or carbon yet. I guy ease and cost will influence that.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Yaggj16S08&t=680s

Thoughts and advice welcome
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  #2  
Old 14th September 2022, 16:32
Mitchelkitman Mitchelkitman is offline
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The carbon and peel ply route would be very expensive. I haven't used peel ply myself, but a trusted friend (who has much more GRP experience than myself said he couldn't get on with it, so that's good enough for me to never use it.
Anyway, more positive thoughts........
maybe build up a shape using PIR foam (from builder's merchants in various thicknesses, so can be cheaper than other foams. make the shape as best you can, (I've glued sheets together using builders 'squirty foam' and cut or use glasspaper to shape (very messy!) Use a vacuum cleaner to remove loose bits. Mix up some polyester resin and paint on with a brush (this is to prevent resin used for lay-up just soaking in). Leave to dry, then use matting and resin to get the shape. It will be lots of work, but certainly possible and less likely to break the bank than using carbon and epoxy resin. There are a few projects on youtube.
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  #3  
Old 14th September 2022, 21:44
WorldClassAccident WorldClassAccident is offline
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The polystyrene foam to form a former which you sand and lay over is what they show in the video. Get the sape right, lay the cloth and once it has hardened cut away the polystyrene to get the finished item.

I am and expert at carving polystyrene, here is some of my earlier work
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  #4  
Old 14th September 2022, 22:35
Mitchelkitman Mitchelkitman is offline
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Polystyrene will melt with polyester resin, therefore only use epoxy if using polystyrene foam.
PIR foam will melt with epoxy resin, therefore only use polyester resin if using PIR foam.
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  #5  
Old 15th September 2022, 17:31
WorldClassAccident WorldClassAccident is offline
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Thanks - I will definitely check once I know what I will be using for the bodywork
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  #6  
Old 18th September 2022, 19:57
Biggles Biggles is offline
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How about starting with a Covin so you don't get reamed for the base vehicle…..
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  #7  
Old 19th September 2022, 15:09
WorldClassAccident WorldClassAccident is offline
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Because Covin's are not great cars?
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  #8  
Old 19th September 2022, 20:12
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Mister Towed Mister Towed is offline
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Covin made some pretty convincing 911 replicas in the 80's even though they had a CVH motor up front. I was gathering parts for one of their now hens-teeth rare type-3 Variant based Speedsters in about 1991 when Dax bought them out and effectively killed the company, which was a bit of a shame, really. Still, I made a profit when I sold the donor on, WEL 9J where are you now?

I do like your thinking with this Citroen/Porsche hybrid idea, but I have to say that it looks an awful lot like a Panamera with twin headlamps and a double chevron on the bootlid to me.

Have you considered using a Cat N salvage Panamera or Cayenne as a donor and just replacing the outer panels in Tribute Automotive stylee?

Just a thought...
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  #9  
Old 20th September 2022, 21:51
WorldClassAccident WorldClassAccident is offline
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The Panamera is considerably larger and has the awkward bulging roof line to allow passengers. Those renders are just what I could find online so not the exact thing I have in mind but as the image below shows, I may not be the master of CAD and rendering models but I am not making a Panamera look-a-like

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  #10  
Old 21st September 2022, 22:29
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Paul L Paul L is offline
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WCA – Taking your question from the other thread…

“How hard can it be for a first timer?”

Answer - Have you read my build thread?



Jokes aside, the difficultly of building bodywork directly, rather than via a mould, is panel depth.

What Tribute do is get the body work exactly the way they want it and then take the mould.

What you are trying to do is get the final bodywork after you have laid on the fibreglass/carbon fibre.

So, you will be making a mould that will actually be ‘smaller’ than the final shape required.
(By the depth of your fibreglass/carbon fibre.)

Fibreglass will not stick to brown parcel tape, or clingfilm, but both will leave an impression on the underside.
(Which no one will see in your case.)

As for the mould itself, I have used a variety of things to shape what I was trying to make…

Insulation foam.







A beer can and plastic drinks bottle.





Bits of a yoga mat.







I even used the corner mesh used by plasterers.
(No need for tape, as the fibre glass didn’t stick to the metal.)



Hope that helps and good luck!

Cheers, Paul.
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  #11  
Old 22nd September 2022, 21:55
WorldClassAccident WorldClassAccident is offline
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Thanks Paul, helpful.

My thinking with the oversize/undersize issue is that If I make the former to match exactly witht he door panels and then add CF the panels will be Xmm to big, as you say, but if I then stick the same CF cloth to the doors then they will also grow by Xmm so be the right size again. Make sense?

This guy makes it look easy : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Yaggj16S08&t=1195s
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  #12  
Old 22nd September 2022, 22:22
Lucky@LeMans Lucky@LeMans is offline
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This works on a bigger scale too, boat hulls being made here.........
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NqzjMc_xBjg
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  #13  
Old 23rd September 2022, 09:12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WorldClassAccident View Post
Thanks Paul, helpful.

...If I make the former to match exactly witht he door panels and then add CF the panels will be Xmm to big, as you say, but if I then stick the same CF cloth to the doors then they will also grow by Xmm so be the right size again. Make sense?
You might want to rethink that as I would suggest that if you set the panel gaps on your former exactly as you want them then oversize each panel by adding your CF cloth and resin, the panel gap won't remain the same but will reduce as the increased dimension on adjoining panels will move towards each other, not both in the same direction.

Apart from the technicalities regarding the plug, I can see this working now I've watched the video of the chap making the small item without vacuum bagging it. The main advantage I can see over using fibreglass is that the surface finish looks like it will be much smoother than when you use fibreglass, so will need less prep for paint. That all depends on how good your plug is though.
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  #14  
Old 23rd September 2022, 19:13
WorldClassAccident WorldClassAccident is offline
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Agreed about the panel gaps. I had considered those but didn't want to over explain my first description.

The door is the only panel that will be skinned over rather than remade. For this a single layer of fabric can be used to wrap over the edges so the gap will only shrink my less than 1mm. The front and rear wings can be formed with bigger gaps than I end up wanting so the end result should still be good gaps.

I am actually thinking of making moulds/profiles based on the existing panels but just for the first few inches so that the contours match exactly when they join the door. I will then use these to ensure that the former I build will be the same as the doors. This further complicates the issue with panel thickness but I am sure I will work it out.

still need to sell two of the current cars and both are convertibles so probably spring before I can actually start anything. At least bad winter weather should provide a few more Cat N donor cars :-)
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