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Go Back   Madabout Kitcars Forum > Mad Build Area > Marlin Sportster, Cabrio, Berlinetta and Roadster builds

Marlin Sportster, Cabrio, Berlinetta and Roadster builds Enthused or Confused about your vintage Marlin build? Ask away here or show off your build.

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  #21  
Old 9th February 2009, 20:24
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excellent, thanks for the pictures.

Had a look our wiper moves 110 degrees, so looks as though we will need to find a different gear box.. wooo
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  #22  
Old 9th February 2009, 20:42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich View Post
excellent, thanks for the pictures.

Had a look our wiper moves 110 degrees, so looks as though we will need to find a different gear box.. wooo

......or fit the spindles slightly closer to the screen to allow a larger arc?
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  #23  
Old 9th February 2009, 22:10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich View Post
excellent, thanks for the pictures.

Had a look our wiper moves 110 degrees, so looks as though we will need to find a different gear box.. wooo
If you can fit the wiper blades as near to the passenger side of the car as possible and with very little gap between them, you might get a slighltly larger arc. You can also go slightly higher up the screen but I sit quite low in my car so tend to be looking through the lower half of the windscreen so I have mounted my blades as low down as I can.
I can move mine to the right by extending the arms but that moves them up the screen as well.
As Mike suggest you could go a little closer to the screen but my middle wheel box is only a few mm away from the rubber strip.
I drilled my spindle holes 12cm from the edge of the dashboard edge of scuttle at the top of the 'eyebrows' (if you know what I mean?) However, this also depnds on where exactly you cut the slots for the windscreen so that may vary from car to car.

I would have assumed that Marlin would have supplied a motor and gearbox with the right ratio? I bought mine off eBay so was expecting to have to change the wheel.

Peter
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  #24  
Old 10th February 2009, 11:41
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I spoke to the man at S_V_C this morning.
From his records, he says that the Sportster should have a wheel marked 100 although he also said the markings of gear wheels don't directly relate to the angle of sweep. I've ordered one and he has agreed to swap if not correct.
He suggested I trialing it without the arms and blades fitted to start with which seems very good advice!
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  #25  
Old 10th February 2009, 11:50
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Maybe we do have the correct gear. I plan to draw a chart and calculate the area the wipers will cover before shortening anything.

As mentioned above I will need to short the wiper arms a little to get them to fit inside the window. At the moment the wipers would go way over the top of the screen.
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  #26  
Old 10th February 2009, 11:51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peterux View Post
I spoke to the man at S_V_C this morning.
From his records, he says that the Sportster should have a wheel marked 100 although he also said the markings of gear wheels don't directly relate to the angle of sweep. I've ordered one and he has agreed to swap if not correct.
He suggested I trialing it without the arms and blades fitted to start with which seems very good advice!
Good idea, you could stick some masking tape on to see what it does I suppose
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  #27  
Old 10th February 2009, 15:09
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Quote:
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Good idea, you could stick some masking tape on to see what it does I suppose
A couple of macdonalds drink straws and blue tack, is what I had in mind!
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  #28  
Old 18th February 2009, 16:26
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I got my bundy tubes and 100 degree gear wheel yesterday so swapped the wheel and assembled the tubes and wheel boxes. I tested it briefly and they seem to give me the 90 degree wiper sweep that i need.



One of the wheel boxes in place. I used lashings of LM grease in the tubes, wheel boxes and inside the motor gearbox.



Here is the wiper motor mounted in place. I fixed a thick aluminium plate to the chassis. I had to move my fuse box down as I preveiously mounted it here. There is a speacial rubber mount that sits under the motor. I fixed the wheel boxes first and then drilled the holes to mount the motor.

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  #29  
Old 22nd February 2009, 20:03
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After spending a lot of time eyeing up the location for the wipers I came to the conclusion that 90 degrees would work best for us. After looking inside the gearbox I found that we have a 110 degree drive gear (which matches the sweep measurement I took a while ago). So I ordered a 90 degree drive gear.

Wiper wheel boxes installed. I had to thin down the fibreglass on one of them as it was too thick to mount the wheel box.


The boxes are fairly in-line.


Motor mounted on a metal plate. I plan to move the hoop for the motor a little hight so the motor is held a little better. Its seem to hold fine as it is however I would feel better with it moved.



Tubes cut to length and flared, good that we had all of the tools from installing the brake pipes as they came in perfectly for this job.



All the parts ready for install. We bought some chrome tops for the wheel boxes as Marlin supplied rubber ones. I am using the rubber ones for fitting to avoid damaging the the chrome ones.



Wipers installed, still need to cut the arms to the correct length.



Tubes Installed.




Wipers in motion.


Washer jets installed.







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  #30  
Old 23rd February 2009, 21:06
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You've made some quick progress there. (I got distracted from finishing my wipers by looking at fitting speakers for my radio whilst the dashboard is off!)

It's interesting to see that Marlin have supplied those flat unsprung wiper blades.
Did you put any locking compound on the small nuts on the back of the wheel boxes?
I noticed they are not locknuts and i'm not sure if they will stay tight?
I wonder what BL did when they built the original mini's?

.....peter
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  #31  
Old 23rd February 2009, 21:26
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Yeah got a fair bit done, nice thing about a long weekend

I noticed that your blades look a little different to ours, the arms are sprung hopefully that will provide enough pressure for a half decent wipe.

Not put any locking compound on the small nuts. It will all be removed and reinstalled for the painting. Probably a good idea to put some on for the final install.



Also from an earlier post out blades are 10 inches long.
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  #32  
Old 24th February 2009, 07:42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peterux View Post
I noticed they are not locknuts and i'm not sure if they will stay tight?
I wonder what BL did when they built the original mini's?

.....peter
They used rust lol...

Seriously - They just used ordinary nuts. I never had a problem either on my Mini or on my previous Marlin that also used the same mechanism.

Robin
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  #33  
Old 24th February 2009, 09:07
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They used rust lol...

Seriously - They just used ordinary nuts. I never had a problem either on my Mini or on my previous Marlin that also used the same mechanism.

Robin
Thanks, Robin. Seems strange but I guess the springyness of the wheel box pressed pieces acts like a spring washer. I found an old haynes manual for a mini in my garage (can't think why because I've never owned a mini??). It doesn't show or mention any locking device either.
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  #34  
Old 26th February 2009, 20:23
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I took some video with my phone so its pretty cruddy quality but shows the wiper motion:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EFgrCJMd3-U
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  #35  
Old 27th February 2009, 14:42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick View Post
I took some video with my phone so its pretty cruddy quality but shows the wiper motion:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EFgrCJMd3-U
Well they seem to work OK!
An amazing bit of 50 year old technology
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  #36  
Old 1st March 2009, 18:01
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Well they seem to work OK!
An amazing bit of 50 year old technology
50 year old tech, you can't plug a computer into so I'm surprised we got it working
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  #37  
Old 26th May 2009, 12:38
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Did anyone list what they finally used and where it came from? I already have a motor but nothing else. It would be good to know what peeps have used and where it came from for:

Wipers boxes - teeth? spindle length? spacers?
Bundy tube -
Wiper arms -
Wiper blades -

I can see this costing an arm (hoho) and a leg if I am not careful. And I thought I had stopped spending for a while....

Robin
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  #38  
Old 26th May 2009, 13:29
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Ours all came from Marlin, except the replacement 90 degree drive gear which came from http://www.s-v-c.co.uk/
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  #39  
Old 26th May 2009, 16:29
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All came from Marlin as a kit if i remember correctly the only odd bits were the wheel boxes 2 of them were 110 degrees sweep and the one for the driver side was only 90 degrees.
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  #40  
Old 26th May 2009, 21:57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MartinClan View Post
Did anyone list what they finally used and where it came from? I already have a motor but nothing else. It would be good to know what peeps have used and where it came from for:

Wipers boxes - teeth? spindle length? spacers?
Bundy tube -
Wiper arms -
Wiper blades -

I can see this costing an arm (hoho) and a leg if I am not careful. And I thought I had stopped spending for a while....

Robin
Hi Robin,
I bought all the bits myself.
Wheel boxes were standard BL Mini ones. (Wheel boxes come in 32 or 40 teeth variants- not sure which ones I got but they work OK).
Try and get them with the spacers as these are expensive separately. I made my own spacers as they were so expensive, but it was an unnessasary extra chore really.
The chrome trims are also extras that add to the overall cost.
Bundy tube and motor drive gearwheel from S-V-C. They will cut and flange the bundy tube to your own dimensions. I mounted the wheel boxes and assembeled without the bundy tube to get the distances between the motor and the three wheel boxes. They have very useful instructions on their website and the guy is very helpful. He recomended a wheel stamped with 100 and it works just fine. (sold the original gear wheel on ebay and recovered about 50%)
http://www.s-v-c.co.uk/prod_wipers.html#techie

I used TEX Wiper arms and blades from Europaspares. They are good quality stainless steel.https://www.europaspares.com/WIPERS/...TYPE_1551.html
Arms are 5.2mm RHP - U71300
Blades are 9inch - B05109

The arms are adjustable length but I still had to cut a small piece off each one to get the right length which was easy as the arm just slides right out. You also have to put 'more angle' on the arm crank.

Finding the right position for the wheel box holes was by trial and measure. see below........
I chose the sprung mounted blades but I see Patick has the flat blade type. Both seem to work fine as the screen is flat.

It all adds up but I think I still saved a few bob over the Marlin kit price. SVC and Carbuildersolutions also do complete kits but getting the bundy tube cut and flared was worth the small extra charge.

You cut the drive shaft to length with a nice sharp cold chisel and that big effing hammer (just make sure nothing is in the way of the off-cut as it flys across your garage............)


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