Squeaky / Creaky susp joints?

bigrich · #1 24th October 2006, 20:51

Hi All...

1000 miles up now on the Exi....all OK except for susp joints. I was hoping they might have freed up a bit but they are all very 'stiff' and creak and groan.

From what I can see it's simply a case of more lubrication (CV joint HP grease) and ensuring the polymer bushes are fully pressed home in the wishbones.

...a word of warning to those building...if the suspension seems tight and doesn't move freely when in the air, stop and relube.....it saves hours later:-)

Anyone else had this problem?

Rich

MikeN · #2 24th October 2006, 21:09

I think that one of the main problems is that Marlin do not state the torque settings for the wishbone bolts. Like everything else with this car - you have to guess.

Mike

bigrich · #3 24th October 2006, 21:15

Mike,

I know what you mean!

The pivot bolts need to be v.tight though so as to pinch the s/steel inner sleeves securely. If they are not tight then the s/steel sleeve pivots around the bolt and this is not good....I think the fact that there is no clearance betweeen poly bushes and frame is the main culprit.

A well known 750MC racer who uses these joints on his bike engined 7 reckons I should make new s.steel sleeves that are about 0.5 - 1mm longer than the existing to give definite clearance....seems a bit extreme, so I'll stick to more lube for now.

Will keep you posted.

P.S. How's the build going?

Rich

SDMC001 · #4 25th October 2006, 03:49

On my previous kit with almost the same layout, the torque settings were 45 lbs, maybe of help to anyone building.

Steve

MikeN · #5 25th October 2006, 07:51

Big Rich thanks for your thoughts. With regard to my build, well it stalled in June. For various reasons (mainly work) I have not done a sausage for months. Now as the pressure of work eases off a smidgen and the winter months roll in, I am going to start again.
The most anoying part is that I have got to take the engine out, swap out the cylinder head, and also find out why my new clutch does not work. So really just re-doing work already done to start with. Bloody anoying to say the least. Most likely the reason why the project stalled in the first place.

Anyway contrary to my family (as in the wife) and friends I will get this baby finished. Have got to order the last module soon as well.

Thanks for asking

Mike

limpabit · #6 25th October 2006, 08:42

Hi Mike.

Not sure what your clutch problem is, but I had a problem with mine. It stuck after not being in use. I managed to free it up by raising the rear wheels in the air running the car in 2nd gear. Slowly raise the revs and apply the the brakes.

HTH.

Cheers

John

MikeN · #7 25th October 2006, 09:01

Hi John,

To be honest not sure if I do have a problem with the clutch or not. I installed a brand new complete clutch assy when I had the engine and gear box separated. Now they are mated together I cannot pull in the clutch. Though I an trying to do this by pulling on the clutch arm that the cable will attach to. Is it just a case of arms not being as strong as legs?

regards

Mike

limpabit · #8 25th October 2006, 11:02

Hi Mike.

Can't remember what engine your doing.

I'm doing the T Series and the clutch arm is very hard to operate. Once the clutch arm is raised, it will stop. But as I found this is only the start. It takes a great deal of force to raise it higher. I played with a bottle jack to raise the arm.

The clutch pedal is very stiff. This I think is due to the way the cable goes from the pedal to the clutch arm. Hoping it will wear in when on the road. Or a later mod converting to hydraulic.

alackofspeed · #9 25th October 2006, 11:40

I noticed that my suspension is pretty stiff in its operation, and wondered about the logic of the steel inserts being appreciably shorter (say 2mm), than the poly bushes. I lubed the inserts up pretty extensively, so have for now concluded that "it is what it is..." and i'll re-visit it when I can properly establish if it's a problem. The car seems to move freely enough when on the deck....... except the slight resistance of the front springs "pinging" past the wishbones......

JG · #10 25th October 2006, 21:44

Quote:

Originally Posted by MikeN

Hi John,

To be honest not sure if I do have a problem with the clutch or not. I installed a brand new complete clutch assy when I had the engine and gear box separated. Now they are mated together I cannot pull in the clutch. Though I an trying to do this by pulling on the clutch arm that the cable will attach to. Is it just a case of arms not being as strong as legs?

regards

Mike

Almost certainly....don't write it off until you've tried it on the pedal.

John

MikeN · #11 26th October 2006, 06:46

OK gent's based on your information concerning clutch, I will not take the engine out as i think I can replace the cylinder head with the engine in situ. This is a big relief, however before i start getting to carried away, does anyone know the sequence for installing the drive shafts into the gearbox and the wheel hubs. Please don't tell me I need to take the engine out!
Oh by the way it's a K series 1.8 vvc.

Cheers Mike

bigrich · #12 26th October 2006, 11:43

Mike,

I did mine in the same sequence....engine in whilst on wheels then fit d.shafts (1.6K...so I'm assuming similar clearance as 1.8K)

....you won't be able to get them in with the back of the car on wheels!

My method was:-

1)Jack up back of car with engine still in, support then remove rearwheels
2)Unbolt bottom ball joints on both sides to give sufficient movement on the hubs
3)Insert driveshafts in g/box end first, then 'manipulate' and insert into hub
4)Refit bottom ball joint and secure hub nuts

...worked for me, but it is tight.

Rich

SDMC001 · #13 26th October 2006, 18:55

Mike

I done the same as Rich, did on my previous kit car, sometimes you need to adapt your build sequence in order to comply with circumstances.

Steve

MikeN · #14 26th October 2006, 22:18

Thank's Gentlemen. Looks like I am going to have a busy week-end. Can't wait!

Regards

Mike